Windshield Rattles

[saxman657]

I'm beginning to notice excessive rattling with the windshield in my '28 Tudor. It's definitely occurring between the glass and the windshield frame. Does anyone have any quick fixes? If not, references for working in this area that includes removing the frame from the hinge, glass from the frame, and then re-installing glass with glass setting tape and gasket. Warning - I'm a rookie in this area.

[Tim Ayers]

I'd love to know as well for I'll be setting the glass in my roadster soon.

[Synchro909]

I've just sorted a rattle in the windscreen of my '28 Tudor too. It was the screw at the front end of the arm that holds the window open. Once tightened, no rattle.
If your problem is indeed the glass loose in the frame, try a little black silicone around the edges I'd apply it so that some goes in between the glass and the frame, then clean it up Silicone can be removed with Mineral Turpentine easily before it cures.

[t farr]

I had an annoying rattle thought it was coming from the top, tightened the 2 screw that hold the frame to body and now nothing.

[Benson]

A word of caution:

I would not drive this car until this is fixed.

My coupe in the 60's had a windshield where the glass rattled in the frame from the time that we bought it.

I drove it for 15,000 miles or so then in 1966 I had an accident where I hit the rear of a 56 Plymouth at 45 MPH that was stopped in front of me.

Minimal damage and the seat belt kept me from hitting the windshield and kept my chest from hitting the steering wheel any harder than it did.

Arms and muscles were sore afterwards from hanging onto the steering wheel.

The Highway Patrol said I was really lucky that I wearing the seat belt.

I had no idea how lucky I really was!

I drove the car another 20,000 miles until the rattling glass got worse.

When I removed the windshield to replace the glass that is when I found that someone years before had put regular old cheap window glass in the frame.

Window plate glass breaks into large chunks in an accident and injuries are usually very bad.

The glass store explained that window glass is thinner than safety glass so it did not fit tightly in the frame which is made for the thicker safety glass.

All Model As had safety glass in windshield from the factory

BUT side and rear windows were plate glass.

My windows were ALL replaced with laminated safety glass.

[Brentwood Bob]

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This YouTube series covers removal of glass, reworking the hinge, making a glass pattern, and reinstallation.
There are several parts/youtubes in this series, watch them all.

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCf8qU...Y3a5HdQ/videos

Bob La Follette

[Synchro909]

X2 what that lucky so and so Benson said. Boy, that could have been much worse.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

This YouTube series covers removal of glass, reworking the hinge, making a glass pattern, and reinstallation.
There are several parts/youtubes in this series, watch them all.

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCf8qU...Y3a5HdQ/videos

Bob La Follette

Thank you!

[Brentwood Bob]

Open car windshield was not covered, not sure how much will be applicable.

[saxman657]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

This YouTube series covers removal of glass, reworking the hinge, making a glass pattern, and reinstallation.
There are several parts/youtubes in this series, watch them all.

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCf8qU...Y3a5HdQ/videos

Bob La Follette

Thank you so much. For temporary fix I'm looking at the below until I can tear into this.

https://www.maxwarehouse.com/product...t=Low%20Margin

[Brentwood Bob]

One of the 4 windshields I reworked was plate glass, another was delaminated.
Safety glass, 1/4 inch thick was what I used, not tempered glass.

[Phred]

Saxman,
I had similar problem with my 28 phaeton, glass was loose in the windshield frame. Wanting to drive the car and not go down the potential work of chasing rust and repairing the frame if I removed the glass from the frame, I ran a tidy bead of neutral cure silicone around the perimeter where the glass meets the windshield frame. Make sure all is clean and dry before caulking and clean up glass as desired with brand new razor blades and solvent as desired.
This has worked well for the past 8 years and 40K+ miles.

If your existing windshield is not laminated glass, please skip the above and install laminated glass.

Peace,
Phred
Elgin IL

[Jack Shaft]

Went with metric Auto glass and a solex tint, very light green, like a coke bottle, Bedded the glass in modern urethane sealant. Thicker glass means more stability, urethane means a tight seal with some flexibility.

[JayJay]

Saxman - I've had the same problem in my 30 pickup and in cars in the past. This is not a terribly difficult job, kind of tedious, but plenty of opportunity to stop and regroup if things don't go smoothly.

If you have any doubt, confirm that the rattle is indeed coming from the windshield in the frame. A business card or two (does anyone still have business cards?) inserted between the glass and the rubber will confirm.

I removed the windshield frame from the car, removed the top frame (screws on each side at the top, then "persuaded" with some light wooden mallet action) and then teased the windshield out of the frame. You can use a thin putty knife or a single edge razor blade to drive between glass and the rubber to free up the glass.

Clean the glass and the channel thoroughly then begin to insert the new rubber into the channel. Couple of hints:

1. Plan it so the seam is centered at the top of the windshield, not the sides or bottom. A seam offers a potential path for water.
2. Pull the rubber tightly across the bottom (use tape to help conform to the curve) then mark the lower corners. Remove the rubber from the windshield then notch the corners, inside and out, to form the miter at the corners. You don't want the rubber overlapping at the corners, but you don't want a big gap either. Leave the center part continuous to wrap around the corner.
3. When you go to insert the windshield, coat both sides of the rubber with a thin film of motor oil. This will make the rubber easier to install in the frame and the glass easier to slip into the rubber from the top. Also, the oil will swell the rubber as it stays in contact to help get a better seal.
4. Slip the glass into the frame from the top. Be careful to not spread the sides too much or you might break metal.
5. At the top you can either notch the rubber like you did at the bottom or make a true full miter (no leakage possibility at the top).
6. When you get everything back together you need to trip the excess rubber inside and out. A razor blade or an X-Acto knife will work well. You can trim it flush with the frame (be careful to not grab a notch of paint when you move the knife!) or alternatively I put a thin piece of metal next to the frame and moved it along, so it leaves a thin piece of rubber exposed.

Then drive!

Good luck. This is a rewarding project because it doesn't cost much (just the rubber seal and some time) and when you notice the lack of rattle you can pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

JayJay