Irregular Signal Flashing

[shew01]

I just installed a Signal Stat 900 to replace my old toggle switch that used to be my signal switch. The 900 seems to be wired properly and securely—I’ve checked it a number is times. The car is 6v positive ground, and I replaced the stock 12v volt bulb in the 900 switch with a 6v #51, per installation instructions.

The odd thing is the flash pulse is sometimes irregular. The only thing I swapped out was the old toggle switch that used to operate the signals for the new unit. All of the other parts are the still the same, meaning minimal wiring was changed. However, the toggle switch did not have a wire to the P terminal on the flasher. The 900 switch does have a wire to the P terminal.

I don’t see a way to post a video.

Any ideas?


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[shew01]

By the way, the 900 switch makes its ground through the steering column to the switch’s mounting strap. Originally, I thought maybe the steering column might be a faulty ground. However, I dempled the strap with a punch, and I scratched paint off the steering column under the strap demple.

I even temporarily grounded the switch strap to the car body with a jump wire. The jump wire did not impact the behavior. I’m thinking the ground works fine as it is, but I still can’t explain the irregular flashing.


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[Ray64]

I had the same problem. Added a load to the system and all is well. I did mine by adding hidden bulbs. You can also buy an electronic one .Going that route this summer

[Patrick L.]

You haven't tried a different flasher ? Try a NOS 535. What does irregular mean ? It also wouldn't hurt to use higher CP bulbs. How were the wire connections made ?

[rotorwrench]

The signal stat function depends on the current draw of the system for proper breaker action. It basically functions like a reset circuit breaker. The ground paths to each bulb and for the system control has to allow a good flow or the current draw will be erratic.

[shew01]

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Originally Posted by Patrick L.

You haven't tried a different flasher ? Try a NOS 535. What does irregular mean ? It also wouldn't hurt to use higher CP bulbs. How were the wire connections made ?

No, I didn’t try a different flasher. (I don’t currently have a new spare.) This flasher is only a few weeks old. The previous flasher came with the car and worked fine until a couple of months ago. Then the previous flasher started blinking very quickly (with the old toggle switch turn signal switch). So, I assumed it was defective. When I replaced the old flasher with the current flasher (at that time still using the old toggle switch) the new flasher (without any other changes to the car) had a steady blink rhythm like you would expect.

Only after replacing the toggle switch with the 900 did the new flasher become irregular. Now, the first blink sometimes takes a moment to start. Then, I might get three or so normally spaced blinks, then 4 or 5 quick blinks, then maybe a second or so pause. The blinks are just not steadily paced. There doesn’t seem to be any apparent pattern to the blink rhythm.


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by Ray64

I had the same problem. Added a load to the system and all is well. I did mine by adding hidden bulbs. You can also buy an electronic one .Going that route this summer

Hmmm... The previous owner installed LED taillights. I don’t know how that impacts the load. I’m not really an electrician.

Where did you hide your light bulbs?


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[MikeK]

The reason there used to be a multitude of flasher code numbers was to match current-dependent flashers with the bulb load on a particular vehicle. If you read the ownwr's manual from one of those 50's-80's cars it would say: Normal flash rate = OK, Fast = short, Slow = open circuit. Additionally, there is some delay on the first flash of the string, as the bi-metal element reaches it's operational range.

What you have described indicates an intermittent short circuit condition with a bi-metal flasher. That's where you are and that is a good thing.

Many of the newer solid state flashers blink away constantly irregardless of circuit condition.

[shew01]

Hmm... I just thought of one more difference that took place during the signal switch swap.

The previous owner had the instrument panel light wired into the toggle turn signal switch so that it would blink as a reminder that the toggle switch was activated. (The way he wired it, the instrument panel light did not turn “on” at all with the headlight switch on the steering wheel.) During daylight, I suppose the blinking instrument panel light was useful. However, at night, the blinking instrument panel light was very annoying and made it difficult to see how to drive. So, I left it out of the circuit when I swapped to the 900 switch.

So, it looks like I have slightly less load on the circuit when blinking now than when the old toggle turn signal switch was installed.

I’ve still got to figure out how to hook the instrument panel light back up. I definitely don’t want it to blink. ;-)


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The signal stat function depends on the current draw of the system for proper breaker action. It basically functions like a reset circuit breaker. The ground paths to each bulb and for the system control has to allow a good flow or the current draw will be erratic.

I didn’t know that. I posted a moment ago that there is slightly less load after swapping the toggle switch for the 900 switch because I disconnected the blinking instrument panel light that was formerly in the circuit. Would that much “less” load be enough to explain the uneven blinking?


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by MikeK

What you have described indicates an intermittent short circuit condition with a bi-metal flasher. That's where you are and that is a good thing.

Please help me understand. Does that mean that my flasher May be bad?


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[shew01]

MikeK,

I didn’t know that there was such a thing as a solid state flasher. Do they made in the 6v variety?


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[katy]

I've used these ones with good success:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-Pin-6-12V-...1c93~T&vxp=mtr

[shew01]

Originally Posted by katy

I've used these ones with good success:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-Pin-6-12V-...1c93~T&vxp=mtr

The 900 switch is made for three prong flashers. Will a two prong flasher work properly with it? (I’m not very familiar with flashers in general. Before this project, all I’ve ever done is replace an existing flasher in a car. This is my first time trying to swap out a switch.)


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[Patrick L.]

Without reading the other posts,,

I don't remember any mention of LEDs. LEDs will do that due to less resistance. The dash light may have added just enough to fire the thermal flasher. To make a thermal flasher work with LED rear lights higher Candle Power front bulbs will allow the thermal flasher to fire properly.

[rotorwrench]

I didn't know LEDs were involved either. LEDs have a lot less current flow than a standard incandescent bulb. It may need a load resistor installed in the circuit to get a standard flasher unit to work. The electronic flasher units will flash at the rate they are designed regardless of the load. This might be the way to go but they are a bit more expensive than the signal stat type of flasher unit. At least it would work consistently that way. You need to find one that fits the flasher plug you have. Some are two prong and some are three prong types. Some are specifically for LEDs but it will have to work with 6-volts if that's what you currently have.
Here is a good link. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ligh...-flasher-leds/

[fuzes45]

ledlight.com has solid state flasher and led bulbd


Bob F

[shew01]

Originally Posted by fuzes45

ledlight.com has solid state flasher and led bulbd


Bob F

Thanks for the tip. Does this look like the right part?


https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-6-v...e-chassis.aspx


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[Patrick L.]

Let us know if the 6v electronic flasher works. I've not found one that does. So, I use what does.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I didn't know LEDs were involved either. LEDs have a lot less current flow than a standard incandescent bulb. It may need a load resistor installed in the circuit to get a standard flasher unit to work. The electronic flasher units will flash at the rate they are designed regardless of the load. This might be the way to go but they are a bit more expensive than the signal stat type of flasher unit. At least it would work consistently that way. You need to find one that fits the flasher plug you have. Some are two prong and some are three prong types. Some are specifically for LEDs but it will have to work with 6-volts if that's what you currently have.
Here is a good link. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ligh...-flasher-leds/

Wow! I would never have guessed this.

As a test, I added the instrument panel light back to the circuit with the 900 switch, and it looks like the blinks flash at a more steady rate.

This also explains why the 900 flasher circuit blinks at a steady rate. 4 bulbs are still in the 900 circuit. On the other hand, only 2 bulbs are still in the left and right signal circuits for the 900 switch (instead of the former three bulbs, that included the instrument pane light with the toggle switch).


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