Looking for a Particular T5 Thread

[TomT/Williamsburg]

There was a thread on here about a T5 application where a member here had turned down the stock Ford throw out bearing collar to accept an S10 or Camaro styled throw out bearing.

I cannot for the life of me find this info or the author of that thread - can anyone give me any help on this?

For those who have inquiring minds, I am running an early 90s Camaro diaphram p-plate, Ford p-plate (using a Ford T5Z), and I am using a modified 39-style mechanical linkage pedal setup for a 32 frame made by Industrial Chassis Inc. - here's the link to the pedals:

http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/...ake-and-clutch

Thanks for any help you can give ....

[JSeery]

What you are calling a bearing collar is called the front retainer on the transmission if that helps any. Any idea what the ID of the throwout bearing is and the OD of the front retainer? If it is a T5z front retainer you are using they are steel vs aluminum on the other T5s.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

I have an S10 front retainer on the T5Z (they are interchangeable) so the Camaro or S10 throw out bearing will not be an issue. The stock Ford collar for the stock Ford t-out bearing is a modified unit from Cornhuskers - it all ready has a sleeve to allow it to ride on the S10/Camaro front retainer.

The thread I am looking for has some specs as to how the collar was cut down to use the S10/Camaro t-out bearing and some other info that will make my modification for my application that much easier ....

[JSeery]

OK, got ya. I just went and measured a T5z I have setting in the garage, it is 1.435 vs 1.375 for the S10 if anyone is interested. Not totally sure what you are looking for yet, is it the length the retainer has to be cut to? I don't remember the thread you are referring to (probably will when I see it! ) so can't be of much help.

Have you tried contacting Corkhuskers? I have always found them to be supper helpful.

[JSeery]

Just did a review of some Barn T5 post/threads and you (Tom) are included in almost all of them and the one providing most of the information!!!! LOL

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by JSeery

Just did a review of some Barn T5 post/threads and you (Tom) are included in almost all of them and the one providing most of the information!!!! LOL

I comment on what I know and have experience in. Since I am in virgin territory for me, I am now the student!

[38bill]

This is the one I built. PM me if you want additional info.

[IMG][/IMG]

[Bassman/NZ]

If it's of any help, my setup is like that pic, but I use a Falcon throwout bearing with a curved face to suit the diaphragm fingers on my clutch. I started out with the flat bearing but it never worked very well with the diaphragm clutch. The carrier has a Teflon sleeve riveted in to take up the difference in retainer snout diameters.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Originally Posted by Bassman/NZ

If it's of any help, my setup is like that pic, but I use a Falcon throwout bearing with a curved face to suit the diaphragm fingers on my clutch. I started out with the flat bearing but it never worked very well with the diaphragm clutch. The carrier has a Teflon sleeve riveted in to take up the difference in retainer snout diameters.

38Bill - that is the pic I was looking for - thank you!

Bassman - I am using an early 90s diaphragm 10.5" p-plate and the same/similar t-out bearing to match the p-plate. I want to do exactly what 38Bill has done.

What I need to know from either one of you is what is the working distance between the diaphram p-plate fingers and the front face of the t-out bearing when the clutch is not engaged or not in use? This way I know how far back/forward the t-out bearing needs to reside in the carrier?
Thank you guys ....

[38bill]

Tom, I made mine the same length (from the back of the carrier to the front of the bearing) as the stock Ford combo. It works but only just. I am using '39 pedals in my '38 and the clutch pedal arm bottoms out on the frame before the pedal is flat to the floor. Looks like your new clutch pedal set up is adjustable so that should be helpful. This wasn't a problem with my stock pressure plate but I had to adjust the throw-out bearing closer to the diaphragm PP than I would normally like. It has gotten better as the new clutch has a few miles of wear on it. Love the new clutch, it is very smooth.

PS:Some winter I may notch out the frame for the extra pedal arm clearance as it gives me an good excuse to get a plasma cutter.

[IMG][/IMG]

[TomT/Williamsburg]

On my roadster I lengthened the arm of the 39 pedal setup for the clutch rod so that allowed greater adjustment since the arm angles towards the rear of the car. Might work for you as well.

Thanks again Bill - I think I will give myself a little wiggle room for the t-out placement and I will also extend the clutch arm on my aftermarket 39 pedal setup as well ....

[JSeery]

Sorry Tom, that is the same set-up I use except I use the stock Ford front retainer over a T5z front retainer. Guess I didn't understand what you were looking for. Looks like you have some good inputs.

[40cpe]

Tom, can you post a picture of the extended arm on the '39 pedal setup? Either a pic of the one on the roadster or the one you are modifying now.

thanks, Gene

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Ok - not a great pic and I forgot the 39 pedal setup does not angle back much.

The piece I added is like an upside down "J" pointing towards the back. The pics are the best I can do ..... hope they help ......

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Thanks everyone - this is again, as always when you ask for info here, the Fordbarn at its best!!

[40cpe]

Thanks for the pics Tom

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Thanks for the pics Tom

Sorry - clear as mud I know but I think you can get the idea of what I did. Without doing this I had little to no adjustments.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Originally Posted by 38bill

Tom, I made mine the same length (from the back of the carrier to the front of the bearing) as the stock Ford combo. It works but only just. I am using '39 pedals in my '38 and the clutch pedal arm bottoms out on the frame before the pedal is flat to the floor. Looks like your new clutch pedal set up is adjustable so that should be helpful. This wasn't a problem with my stock pressure plate but I had to adjust the throw-out bearing closer to the diaphragm PP than I would normally like. It has gotten better as the new clutch has a few miles of wear on it. Love the new clutch, it is very smooth.

PS:Some winter I may notch out the frame for the extra pedal arm clearance as it gives me an good excuse to get a plasma cutter.

[IMG][/IMG]

OK Bill - I've been studying this picture and some things just do not make sense to me. First, the stock t-out bearing would reside all the way back in the housing so how is your setup have your t-out bearing in the same location (understand that my experience with the stock setup is the 39-40 setup)? Also, I can't for the life of me figure out how you do not have enough throw with the 39 pedal setup with the t-out bearing so far forward? Is your adjustable rod adjustable enough?

Maybe a pic of your setup underneath?

Thanks - just trying to set the stage for what I need to do .....

Thanks for your help!

[38bill]

The stock throw out bearing is much thicker than the S10 bearing I used (see the photo below). In order to be the same assembled length the S10 bearing had to be forward as shown in the photos above.

I believe my issue with clutch travel has to do with the distance the new PP forks have to travel to fully release and the fact that the '39 pedals I am using can hit the frame thus limiting travel adjustment. I plan to do some modification this winter to fix that. Could be all I have to do is lengthen the throw out bearing assembly to gain a little more travel before the pedal bottoms out. (Looks like your aftermarket pedals have a shaft that has splines so they can be adjusted for height independently from the throw out bearing adjustment. If mine had this option I wouldnt be having a problem)

The S10 bearing I used was a higher end part (RAM). Instead of the stamped metal hub it has a one piece steel hub and it does not have the bump on the hub as many of the other S10 bearings have. There is a flange on the back end that I had to grind off to push it into the old hub. I also had to cut down the front end of the old hub to get the length I wanted. (If I hadn't cut down the length it probably would have worked perfectly but at the time I wanted to match the stock length. Live and learn!)

[IMG][/IMG]

[TomT/Williamsburg]

From what I understand it takes a lot less travel with a diaphram p-plate to disengage the clutch than the Borg and Beck - only about 5/8-3/4 inch is needed max. So, what my measurements come out with I can probably just trim the original carrier back about 1/8" and just set the Camaro t-out bearing right in front and tack it to the carrier. That will give me 3/4" of travel and I can adjust it tighter if need be. The carrier I am using all ready has the S10 sleeve built in - it's from Cornhusker ....

I hope to be good to go with this setup or at least it will be a good starting point .....

Thank you for all your help!