Rear hub removal tool

[History]

Watched a Paul Shinn video about brakes and the fellow he had doing the brakes said he didn't like the original rear hub puller and used a "knock off" tool instead. What's your thought on this and where do you purchase the tool he uses?

Thanks

[Will N]

IMHO, the knock off tool may work on a hub that isn't on too tight, but it might lead to damaging the threaded end of the axle if you pound too much. I've used the half round pullers, and they're ok, but if you have a really stubborn hub, the right tool for the job is the KRW puller that goes all around the hub.

[History]

Thanks for reply,,, he said that the original type could mushroom the axle end on one that was really tight. I've never removed a rear (yet) but am about to.

[katy]

[QUOTE=History;2081152]What's your thought on this and where do you purchase the tool he uses? [QUOTE]

When using the "knock off" tool one should leave the selected wheel on the ground and jack up the opposite side.
Methinks that the parts vendors sell the "knock off" tool.

[CarlG]

I have the tool made by Mitchell. It works great, and on both types of hubs.

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by CarlG

I have the tool made by Mitchell. It works great, and on both types of hubs.

I'll second that. Mitchell's tool works great and unlike many hub pullers the one from Mitchell works on both types of hubs (as CarlG stated).

You can get them direct from Mitchell or from Bratton's.

https://mitchelloverdrives.com/mitchell-hub-puller/

https://www.brattons.com/UNIVERSAL-R...ductinfo/6141/

[wwirz]

I used the knock off puller without incident. I think because of the mechanical advantage of this type of puller, one good blow with a carpenter hammer released the hub from the taper. When reassembling, do not use grease or oil on the taper fit

[nkaminar]

I have had good luck with the Universal Hub Puller, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6169&cat=41753. I have tried the others without good success. I bought some nuts that fit the shaft from McMaster Carr and thread them on to be flush with the end of the shaft before using the puller.

[Anteek29]

The Snyders Universal Hub Puller...highly recommend!

[Vic in E-TN]

My favorite rear hub removal tool is made by Vintage Precision in Benicia California. 800-486-0021. They also make thermostat housings.


Vic

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I have had good luck with the Universal Hub Puller, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6169&cat=41753. I have tried the others without good success. I bought some nuts that fit the shaft from McMaster Carr and thread them on to be flush with the end of the shaft before using the puller.

Pretty sure the one Snyder's sells is the one made by Mitchell Manufacturing or is a pretty close copy. see post #6.

[Fhane]

KRW. Works great. Tough as nails for a stubborn drum. I bought two years 40 years ago. One still in the box.

[Bob Bidonde]

The knock-off tool may Brinnel (flat spot) the ball bearings in the differential.

[rotorwrench]

The Reproduction KR Wilson tool is a good one but is expensive by comparison to the bolt together set up. Both will get the job done.

[katy]

This type works good on both types of hubs:

An old time trick was to remove the cotter pin, loosen the axle nut about 1/2 a turn or so, reinstall the cotter pin and drive around the block.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The knock-off tool may Brinnel (flat spot) the ball bearings in the differential.

There are ball bearings in the differential? I alway thought they were tapered roller bearings.

[JKY]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Pretty sure the one Snyder's sells is the one made by Mitchell Manufacturing or is a pretty close copy. see post #6.

You are correct. When you click the instructions on the Snyder's site it opens an instruction sheet telling you it's a Mitchell. Nice stuff Mitchell makes!

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Pretty sure the one Snyder's sells is the one made by Mitchell Manufacturing or is a pretty close copy. see post #6.

The one Snyder's sells IS the one Mitchell makes. The instruction sheet that they show in their "downloads" states:
This Mitchell Manufacturing product is designed to pull rear brake hubs on Ford vehicles from 1928 to 1948.

[rotorwrench]

There can be problems with the bolt to the lug nut types if the taper is really tight or corroded together. The hub and drum aren't very thick like a later model vehicles after 1948 The hub & drum can be damaged or warped. Pulling from the hub nose is a safer bet. Wide 5 drums from 1936 though 39 would not work all that well either.