The Ford Barn

Barber31 · 03-30-2016, 12:20 PM

I'm not sure what's the best route to go here. When I removed my front spring I noticed it had 13 leaves. So assuming they added those extra 3 due to a sagging spring, I took my set to a shop to have them re-arched to factory specs. The guy called and said when he compressed the 10 together they were already at factory specs. So just to be on the safe side he recommended I just buy a completely new spring just because they are new and will have new bushings. My dilemma is not only will I have to shell out extra money but will I get a quality spring. I'd rather keep my original but it needs new bushings and grinding a bevel on the ends and who's to know if it will still sag when I reinstall it.

Mitch//pa · 03-30-2016, 01:09 PM

I always buy new springs and never screw with reaarching, / reusing old ones....never had luck with them holding the height over time
Others don't have an issue reusing but I feel it's time and money spent that could go towards a new quallity assy..

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 03-30-2016, 01:13 PM

Generally speaking the spring you have can be re-arched however he may see something we cannot see. It also may be the time he would need to spend smoothing and re-arching may exceed what you can purchase a new spring for.

To my knowledge, there are two different spring manufacturers for the Model-A. The ones you purchase from most vendors is of decent quality for a driver-level car. I am pretty certain they are manufactured off-shore. The tie-bolt is incorrect, the spring clips are not there, and you will need to do some grinding work on the top leaf so it will fit correctly into the crossmember. If you are desiring a better quality front spring that is very, very close to what was originally made by Ford, then go to http://a-springs.com/ and order one of theirs. With quality comes a price too, so just be warned.

Phred · 03-30-2016, 01:15 PM

You didn't mention why you removed the spring (because of spring concerns, or other concerns) Who gets to define "factory specs"?

The following link: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62383

Shows info about original springs, note different leaves have different thicknesses and cross sections.

It is unlikely that any new springs today use different thickness and cross section leaves. They are most likely same thickness leaves.

I would suggest you just put in new bushings, check the arch for symmetry, and install. You will probably be fine. If not, I have had good luck with www.a-springs.com for a new spring.

Hope this helps

J Franklin · 03-30-2016, 01:20 PM

If they are at factory specs. with 10 leaves I guess it is your call. You can easily re-bush and grind if it is really needed and give the spring a chance. if it is truly at factory spec it should be good to go. if it is too saggy it can be re-arched. Front springs are easy to remove and replace. I have used a new spring and I am happy with it. If you buy new make sure the top leaf has the correct bevel to sit in the crossmember properly. I cut a leather pad from an old belt to place on top (oiled), to prevent squeaks.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-30-2016, 01:59 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Little Dearborn in MPLS makes the front springs for many suppliers. 612-331-2066

They also make bumpers.

Barber31 · 03-30-2016, 03:03 PM

I removed springs because I'm restoring the chassis. I never measured the distance from the ground to center of bumper when the car was assembled so I'm not sure if it was indeed sagging or too high. Either way it didn't have the correct amount of leaves. The sources I've been referring to are my Red book and The complete ford restoration manual. They have listed all the measurements of the factory specs.

StoolBus · 03-31-2016, 05:15 AM

Just a side note, I helped a friend with his springs and we separated the leaf pack and painted each leaf with John Deere graphite paint. They have ZERO squeak and they look great two years and 5000 miles later.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RonC · 03-31-2016, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barber31

I removed springs because I'm restoring the chassis. I never measured the distance from the ground to center of bumper when the car was assembled so I'm not sure if it was indeed sagging or too high. Either way it didn't have the correct amount of leaves. The sources I've been referring to are my Red book and The complete ford restoration manual. They have listed all the measurements of the factory specs.

You may not even be working with an original Ford spring to start with. Most have been replaced. Is this a fine point car? If not go the a-springs.com route well worth the money.

tbirdtbird · 03-31-2016, 09:15 AM

I'm with Mitch all the way that re-arched springs don't hold up well at all. The metal is fatigued, period, and the grain structure is altered, and will sag again soon. It is a fool's errand to re-arch

03-30-2016, 12:20 PM	#1
Barber31 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 687	Front spring decisions I'm not sure what's the best route to go here. When I removed my front spring I noticed it had 13 leaves. So assuming they added those extra 3 due to a sagging spring, I took my set to a shop to have them re-arched to factory specs. The guy called and said when he compressed the 10 together they were already at factory specs. So just to be on the safe side he recommended I just buy a completely new spring just because they are new and will have new bushings. My dilemma is not only will I have to shell out extra money but will I get a quality spring. I'd rather keep my original but it needs new bushings and grinding a bevel on the ends and who's to know if it will still sag when I reinstall it.

03-30-2016, 01:09 PM	#2
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Front spring decisions I always buy new springs and never screw with reaarching, / reusing old ones....never had luck with them holding the height over time Others don't have an issue reusing but I feel it's time and money spent that could go towards a new quallity assy.. Last edited by Mitch//pa; 03-30-2016 at 01:28 PM.

03-30-2016, 01:13 PM	#3
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,513	Re: Front spring decisions Generally speaking the spring you have can be re-arched however he may see something we cannot see. It also may be the time he would need to spend smoothing and re-arching may exceed what you can purchase a new spring for. To my knowledge, there are two different spring manufacturers for the Model-A. The ones you purchase from most vendors is of decent quality for a driver-level car. I am pretty certain they are manufactured off-shore. The tie-bolt is incorrect, the spring clips are not there, and you will need to do some grinding work on the top leaf so it will fit correctly into the crossmember. If you are desiring a better quality front spring that is very, very close to what was originally made by Ford, then go to http://a-springs.com/ and order one of theirs. With quality comes a price too, so just be warned. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

03-30-2016, 01:15 PM	#4
Phred Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: IL Posts: 303	Re: Front spring decisions You didn't mention why you removed the spring (because of spring concerns, or other concerns) Who gets to define "factory specs"? The following link: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62383 Shows info about original springs, note different leaves have different thicknesses and cross sections. It is unlikely that any new springs today use different thickness and cross section leaves. They are most likely same thickness leaves. I would suggest you just put in new bushings, check the arch for symmetry, and install. You will probably be fine. If not, I have had good luck with www.a-springs.com for a new spring. Hope this helps

03-30-2016, 01:20 PM	#5
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,963	Re: Front spring decisions If they are at factory specs. with 10 leaves I guess it is your call. You can easily re-bush and grind if it is really needed and give the spring a chance. if it is truly at factory spec it should be good to go. if it is too saggy it can be re-arched. Front springs are easy to remove and replace. I have used a new spring and I am happy with it. If you buy new make sure the top leaf has the correct bevel to sit in the crossmember properly. I cut a leather pad from an old belt to place on top (oiled), to prevent squeaks.

03-30-2016, 01:59 PM	#6
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Front spring decisions Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Little Dearborn in MPLS makes the front springs for many suppliers. 612-331-2066 They also make bumpers.

03-30-2016, 03:03 PM	#7
Barber31 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 687	Re: Front spring decisions I removed springs because I'm restoring the chassis. I never measured the distance from the ground to center of bumper when the car was assembled so I'm not sure if it was indeed sagging or too high. Either way it didn't have the correct amount of leaves. The sources I've been referring to are my Red book and The complete ford restoration manual. They have listed all the measurements of the factory specs.

03-31-2016, 05:15 AM	#8
StoolBus Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Bethel, ME Posts: 31	Re: Front spring decisions Just a side note, I helped a friend with his springs and we separated the leaf pack and painted each leaf with John Deere graphite paint. They have ZERO squeak and they look great two years and 5000 miles later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03-31-2016, 09:15 AM	#10
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: Front spring decisions I'm with Mitch all the way that re-arched springs don't hold up well at all. The metal is fatigued, period, and the grain structure is altered, and will sag again soon. It is a fool's errand to re-arch __________________ '31 180A