Differential rebuild, lube bearings for preload adjustments?

[Alaska Mike]

I am rebuilding the differential on my Model A, and I have Les Andrews book and downloaded the instructions from Tom Endy. Both and very clear in their instructions, but neither one mentions whether the bearings should be lubed prior to adjusting for pre-load, or adjust dry. Does anyone have any ideas?

[Tom Endy]

I apply 600W lube to the bearings and races during assembly. I also apply grease to the two axle seals before assembly.

Tom Endy

[Alaska Mike]

Wow! I did not expect to hear back from the "Master" himself! Thank you so much for your response, and thank you so much for producing such a wonderful resource for guys like me!

[Jim/GA]

Mike, when setting the bearing pre-load, remember the torque you are measuring is in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. BIG difference.

An easy detail to misread.

I hope it goes well for you.
.

[Alaska Mike]

Thanks for all your ideas and help. I will start to put things together tomorrow.

[Jack Shaft]

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Tapered roller bearings requiring measured pre load are according to many manufacturers set up clean and dry. Lubrication during preload adjustment alters the actual setting you are trying to achieve in two ways,one is the actual dimension of the film of oil applied, the other is the lubricating property reducing friction.

[katy]

Just remember that used bearings don't require as much preload as new bearings.

[Jim Brierley]

I oil everything I assemble with oil-can oil. Oil-can oil is a combination of all oils that I use, mostly engine oil. Being cheap, I drain all containers for at least a day, save for use in my oil cans. For assembly purposes I feel viscosity, etc., make little-to-no difference.

[john charlton]

When you tighten the lock nut on the pinion bearing it pushes the inner nut forward on its thread this will increase the preload . Check your set preload again after the lock nut is tight you might have to back the inner nut off a smidgeon and do it again . A bit of a fiddle going to and fro but you get it right before you set the lockwasher .

John in very very windy Suffolk County England .

[Terry, NJ]

I'm sure Tom Endy would echo this, since he's where I got it from! The shaft of the pinion should be put in a lathe or (If you have the setup) a drill press and polished with say, an 80grit wetordry until the bearing almost slides. Some of the pinions are way too tight, bearings can't move! First you get it too tight! Then you get it too loose!. If it can slide easier, you have more control. It still must be tight. just not as tight.
Terry

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by john charlton

When you tighten the lock nut on the pinion bearing it pushes the inner nut forward on its thread this will increase the preload . Check your set preload again after the lock nut is tight you might have to back the inner nut off a smidgeon and do it again . A bit of a fiddle going to and fro but you get it right before you set the lockwasher .

John in very very windy Suffolk County England .

I make it a point to install the drive shaft and torque the drive shaft nut to a nominal 100ft. lbs. before attempting to set the pinion bearing pre-load. If you set the pre-load before tightening the nut you will find that the pre-load has increased after the nut was torqued.

Tom Endy

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

I make it a point to install the drive shaft and torque the drive shaft nut to a nominal 100ft. lbs. before attempting to set the pinion bearing pre-load. If you set the pre-load before tightening the nut you will find that the pre-load has increased after the nut was torqued.

Tom Endy

A couple of months ago I was watching a video on installing a Mitchell O/D and they set the bearing preload before they removed the pinion from the old drive shaft. At the time I thought "that doesn't look right"!

Just wanted to warn members to be aware of this and do it Tom's way.