The Ford Barn

53_mercLuke · 08-23-2020, 06:15 PM

I'm having issues on acceleration, it just spits and sputters. I have replaced the 6 volt to a 12 volt system 2 years ago, this started happening about 3 months ago and I have been chasing my tail. I rebuilt the carburetor (teapot) and had the alternator rebuilt because it wasnt charging. Still was running bad. Replaced the fuel pump with an electric pump and checked pressure, im getting 3-1/2 to 4 psi which I think is good. I replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, ignition coil and went through all the wiring again. It still to me seems like a fueling issue but im.not sure what else to check or replace? Thanks for any advice I can get on the issue.

Gick70 · 08-23-2020, 06:25 PM

Distributor Vacuum canister,this was what was wrong with mine,a hole in the diaphragm..

JSeery · 08-23-2020, 06:26 PM

The fuel pressure is a bit high, should be more like 2 to 2 1/2 psi. That could cause an issue. Also, I am assuming it still has the original vacuum only advance distributor? Are you sure the advance is working? When you say you replaced the cap, is that the distributor cap or the capacitor? A bad capacitor and/or coil is a common issue as some of them are bad from the get-go.

53_mercLuke · 08-23-2020, 06:38 PM

I replaced the distributor cap and the capacitor when I did the points. And i did replace the vacuum advance canister but thats another issue, when its hooked up it cranks but doesn't start

F-ONE · 08-23-2020, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 53_mercLuke

I replaced the distributor cap and the capacitor when I did the points. And i did replace the vacuum advance canister but thats another issue, when its hooked up it cranks but doesn't start

If that's not hooked up, the engine will have no advance.

scicala · 08-23-2020, 07:26 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by F-ONE

If that's not hooked up, the engine will have no advance.

Also, it shouldn't make a difference cranking and starting the engine with the distributor vacuum line connected or not connected, since there is not really any vacuum when you're cranking over anyway.

Sal

JSeery · 08-23-2020, 07:49 PM

Think you may be onto your problem here. Without the vacuum connected the engine is going to run poorly and if connecting it causes starting issues something is amiss with the distributor.

53_mercLuke · 08-23-2020, 08:21 PM

I never had the advance hooked up before and it ran great. But yeah now if I hook the advance line up before start it just cranks, if i hook it up while running it dies

JSeery · 08-23-2020, 08:32 PM

About the only way I can think of that it would run great with the vacuum disconnected is that the distributor is way advanced. Think of all the time and money you have spent on parts! I think it would be much better to get the distributor working correctly. It can not possibly be working correctly without the vacuum advance working, it is just setting at a fixed timing point. This type of distributor has to have the vacuum to work. So, something strange is going on if you can get it to run without it. Again, my guess would be that the distributor is way over advanced so that it would sorta run once the rpms were up. Regardless, the distributor is not function correctly.

53_mercLuke · 08-23-2020, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

About the only way I can think of that it would run great with the vacuum disconnected is that the distributor is way advanced. Think of all the time and money you have spent on parts! I think it would be much better to get the distributor working correctly. It can not possibly be working correctly without the vacuum advance working, it is just setting at a fixed timing point. This type of distributor has to have the vacuum to work. So, something strange is going on if you can get it to run without it. Again, my guess would be that the distributor is way over advanced so that it would sorta run once the rpms were up. Regardless, the distributor is not function correctly.

Thanks I will check that out. It is strange it ran for about 5 years without. But it is about the only thing I haven't looked to far into

JSeery · 08-23-2020, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 53_mercLuke

Thanks I will check that out. It is strange it ran for about 5 years without. But it is about the only thing I haven't looked to far into

That is strange, you may have a whole new drive experience with the distributor working!

My suggestion would be to send it to one of the distributor guys here on the Barn and have them check it out. A question, how have you been setting the timing?

A past thread on the Loadamatic distributor: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...5865&showall=1

A side note, Bubba no longer does the Chevy conversion distributors, but other do if you were ever interested.

51 MERC-CT · 08-23-2020, 11:53 PM

(Try this again)

If the accelerator pump is not in the outer (winter) position, move it there.
If there is an improvement, that is an indication of a faulty accelerator pump and needs replacing.
Also check float level.

53_mercLuke · 08-24-2020, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

That is strange, you may have a whole new drive experience with the distributor working!

My suggestion would be to send it to one of the distributor guys here on the Barn and have them check it out. A question, how have you been setting the timing?

A past thread on the Loadamatic distributor: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...5865&showall=1

A side note, Bubba no longer does the Chevy conversion distributors, but other do if you were ever interested.

I have been as of late to see if it helps and I get it spot on but still runs horrible

Ross F-1 · 08-24-2020, 10:33 AM

There is a wire under the points plate that often times wears thru its insulation, as it moves every time there iis a change in advance. I wonder if it shorts when you hook up the vacuum but doesn't when in the resting position? It's the red wire below.

tubman · 08-24-2020, 11:37 AM

I had that happen on an MG Magnette I had years ago; it was a bear to find.

53_mercLuke · 08-30-2020, 04:15 PM

Update, I found the ground wire in the distributor only holding together with a couple strands of wire. Fixed that and reset timing, runs alot better but still have some stumbling on acceleration more at higher rpms though so I'm still trying to figure out whats going on there but im happy im getting closer to a good running flathead

Aarongriffey · 08-30-2020, 05:54 PM

I had a problem earlier this month on me daily driver MGB.
It cranked over good but would not start unless I jumped the starter relay with the key turned on. The relay is similar to An early Ford V8. We used to call them solenoids.
When I twisted the key start ignition switch over to “start” it was dropping the power to the coil.
I ran a jumper wire from a live source to the coil. It started right away.
So I changed the ignition switch and it now stars the first turn. Old car.

08-23-2020, 06:15 PM	#1
53_mercLuke Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Houston TX Posts: 79	1953 Flathead acceleration issue I'm having issues on acceleration, it just spits and sputters. I have replaced the 6 volt to a 12 volt system 2 years ago, this started happening about 3 months ago and I have been chasing my tail. I rebuilt the carburetor (teapot) and had the alternator rebuilt because it wasnt charging. Still was running bad. Replaced the fuel pump with an electric pump and checked pressure, im getting 3-1/2 to 4 psi which I think is good. I replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, ignition coil and went through all the wiring again. It still to me seems like a fueling issue but im.not sure what else to check or replace? Thanks for any advice I can get on the issue.

08-23-2020, 06:25 PM	#2
Gick70 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 107	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue Distributor Vacuum canister,this was what was wrong with mine,a hole in the diaphragm..

08-23-2020, 06:26 PM	#3
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue The fuel pressure is a bit high, should be more like 2 to 2 1/2 psi. That could cause an issue. Also, I am assuming it still has the original vacuum only advance distributor? Are you sure the advance is working? When you say you replaced the cap, is that the distributor cap or the capacitor? A bad capacitor and/or coil is a common issue as some of them are bad from the get-go.

08-23-2020, 06:38 PM	#4
53_mercLuke Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Houston TX Posts: 79	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue I replaced the distributor cap and the capacitor when I did the points. And i did replace the vacuum advance canister but thats another issue, when its hooked up it cranks but doesn't start

08-23-2020, 07:49 PM	#7
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue Think you may be onto your problem here. Without the vacuum connected the engine is going to run poorly and if connecting it causes starting issues something is amiss with the distributor.

08-23-2020, 08:21 PM	#8
53_mercLuke Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Houston TX Posts: 79	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue I never had the advance hooked up before and it ran great. But yeah now if I hook the advance line up before start it just cranks, if i hook it up while running it dies

08-23-2020, 08:32 PM	#9
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue About the only way I can think of that it would run great with the vacuum disconnected is that the distributor is way advanced. Think of all the time and money you have spent on parts! I think it would be much better to get the distributor working correctly. It can not possibly be working correctly without the vacuum advance working, it is just setting at a fixed timing point. This type of distributor has to have the vacuum to work. So, something strange is going on if you can get it to run without it. Again, my guess would be that the distributor is way over advanced so that it would sorta run once the rpms were up. Regardless, the distributor is not function correctly.

08-23-2020, 11:53 PM	#12
51 MERC-CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Hartford, Ct Posts: 5,898	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue (Try this again) If the accelerator pump is not in the outer (winter) position, move it there. If there is an improvement, that is an indication of a faulty accelerator pump and needs replacing. Also check float level. __________________ DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES Last edited by 51 MERC-CT; 08-24-2020 at 01:05 AM.

08-24-2020, 11:37 AM	#15
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,303	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue I had that happen on an MG Magnette I had years ago; it was a bear to find.

08-30-2020, 04:15 PM	#16
53_mercLuke Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Houston TX Posts: 79	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue Update, I found the ground wire in the distributor only holding together with a couple strands of wire. Fixed that and reset timing, runs alot better but still have some stumbling on acceleration more at higher rpms though so I'm still trying to figure out whats going on there but im happy im getting closer to a good running flathead

08-30-2020, 05:54 PM	#17
Aarongriffey Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Hayward,CA Posts: 513	Re: 1953 Flathead acceleration issue I had a problem earlier this month on me daily driver MGB. It cranked over good but would not start unless I jumped the starter relay with the key turned on. The relay is similar to An early Ford V8. We used to call them solenoids. When I twisted the key start ignition switch over to “start” it was dropping the power to the coil. I ran a jumper wire from a live source to the coil. It started right away. So I changed the ignition switch and it now stars the first turn. Old car.