Full flow remote oil filter kit for a late flathead V8

[bschulze]

Please help!
Do you know of a full flow remote oil filter kit for my late flathead V8? I bought such a kit around 2000 from Mark Kirby at Motor City Flat head. It worked very well and was relatively easy to install. As I recall it involved:

A. Plugging one of the oil flow ports, left rear of the motor.

B. Running a return hose from the remote oil filter boss. (It used an 8BA Ford filter) to the other oil feed port on the back of the motor.

C. Running an oil feed hose directly from the oil pump inside the pan. It ran through the side of the pan to the remote filter boss.

Result 100% filtered oil. It worked great. No extensive drilling into the rear of the block. (The fuel pump hole in the block needed to be plugged, Electric fuel pumps are great.)
Thank you, Bob

[V8 Bob]

Contact Goller's Hot Rods in Defiance Ohio. Phil Goller took over much of Mark Kirby's MCF products and should still offer that full flow kit.

[37fatfender]

I installed “Red’s Headers Kit” years ago. I think they are still in business.

[qmdv]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Contact Goller's Hot Rods in Defiance Ohio. Phil Goller took over much of Mark Kirby's MCF products and should still offer that full flow kit.

I have called him a time or two. No answer and no call back. So I figured it out myself.

[69a]

You DON'T fit any internal plugs in a 100% system! Oil filter comes in the kit. Not 8BA. It is a full flow filter with a built in safety bypass, and preferably an anti drainback valve.

[37fatfender]

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“My” experience was you do have to install an internal plug in the oil feed internal line to the rear main, otherwise that oil is NOT filtered. The back of the block is drilled and a bypass line is installed to feed the rear main with filtered oil. My advice is to contact Red’s see if they can at least supply you with the drawings. I do think Red Hamilton has retired or sold the business. Good Luck

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by 37fatfender

“My” experience was you do have to install an internal plug in the oil feed internal line to the rear main, otherwise that oil is NOT filtered. The back of the block is drilled and a bypass line is installed to feed the rear main with filtered oil. My advice is to contact Red’s see if they can at least supply you with the drawings. I do think Red Hamilton has retired or sold the business. Good Luck

The Motor City system is totally different. No plugs. You are talking about the supposed 95% system which in actuality is a 67% system.

[69a]

The OP is confused. The 100% system uses a modified pump. The pump has a sleeve inside to prevent oil going to the rear main. A custom plate on the bottom of the oil pump the takes 100% of the oil to a fitting on the side of the oil pan near the dipstick. And one oil line via a modern filter to one fitting at the rear of the block. NO INTERNAL PLUGS!
The 80% system uses two fittings at the rear of the block with an internal plug to direct the oil through a modern filter, and back to the block. Getting them mixed up can have dire consequences.
The use of an 8BA type filter is only used in the bypass filter system where all of the filtered oil is returned to the oil pan.

[69a]

Originally Posted by 37fatfender

“My” experience was you do have to install an internal plug in the oil feed internal line to the rear main, otherwise that oil is NOT filtered. The back of the block is drilled and a bypass line is installed to feed the rear main with filtered oil. My advice is to contact Red’s see if they can at least supply you with the drawings. I do think Red Hamilton has retired or sold the business. Good Luck

The 80% system (with the plug) filters all of the oil EXCEPT what goes to the rear main/ big ends and rear cam bearing.

[Ronnieroadster]

There's one big flaw with the Kirby system that rears its ugly head at times. The oil hose that runs from the modified pump cover to the side wall of the oil pan has a tendency to come off. And if one is not careful the oil hose can come in contact with the rotating crank assembly. I prefer the 95 percent system its darn near fool proof.
Ronniroadster

[37fatfender]

I was able to find in my archive "Red's Headers Full Flow Oil Filter Conversions Plans" in my oil files. I have taken photos and will attach to this thread. I hope they are readable.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

There's one big flaw with the Kirby system that rears its ugly head at times. The oil hose that runs from the modified pump cover to the side wall of the oil pan has a tendency to come off. And if one is not careful the oil hose can come in contact with the rotating crank assembly. I prefer the 95 percent system its darn near fool proof.
Ronniroadster

There is even a bigger flaw with the "95" % system and that is it does not filter the rear main. I've got a friend who's engine had that system. Something went wrong and the rear main got completely wiped out and the engine was junk. No. 1 and 2 main were completely OK. His next engine got the Motor City system. I've built a number of engines with the MC system without a problem(knock on wood).

[Ronnieroadster]

The 95 % system works perfectly heck my experience has only been two round trips across America at highway speeds and an additional 70,000 more miles with the same main bearing's no issues what's so every. Every mile with a blower on top of that little old 59A with ARDUN heads guess its just luck. Good thing your knocking on wood.
Ronnieroadster

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by 69a

The 80% system (with the plug) filters all of the oil EXCEPT what goes to the rear main/ big ends and rear cam bearing.

Overall its a safe system when the oil lines are connected correctly to the oil filter being used.

[flatjack9]

I've had my MCF system in my car for almost 30 years and probably 60- 70,000 miles.

[tubman]

Leave it alone. The stock system is fine the way these cars are used. Probably superior for most. The stock bypass filter filters finer than a full flow filter and since the great majority of us don't drive on dirt roads anymore, we don't have to worry about the big chunks. Regular oil and filter changes take care of any problems.

I never cared for changing things just for the sake of change.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I've had my MCF system in my car for almost 30 years and probably 60- 70,000 miles.

Point of interest.
The internal oil passage in the Ford 8BA block inside diameter that flows the engine oil measures .421 in diameter. That's the passage in the block casting between the oil pump cavity and the oil tube in the valley area of the block. As we all know the valley oil tube feeds oil to the center and front of the engine.
When the oil is feed from the pump externally by the 100% system the oil line goes into the stock Ford 1/4 inch pipe thread. When that's done the 1/4 inch fittings used all have internal diameters that are extremally small well below the design by Ford of .421


With the 90% plus system the new added inlet is now 3/8 inch pipe and the outlet location on the block is opened up from that small 1/4 inch pipe size to 3/8 inch pipe size.

The internal diameter of the 3/8 fittings used for the 1/2 inch inside diameter oil hose is 3/8 of an inch. When I do this conversion I actually open up the now 3/8 pipe thread fittings inside diameter to the .421 diameter. Now the oil feed system has no flow restrictions. This is what I do on any engine I'm involved with {more than a couple hundred or so} when the 90% plus system is included.

Sure the stock as designed oil system is adequate for most applications. However there are advantages to improving if one so desires especially now in the 21st century. So leave it alone if you like but now lets get back to the original posters question which is about the Full Flow Remote Oil Filter Kit.
Ronnieroadster

[Bored&Stroked]

I've ran both types of systems - 95% (67%) and 100% with the special pump mods. Couple comments:

1) Whether it's a 67% or 100% system - the size of the oil lines and feed holes to the block can be increased in size. Both systems are subject to the same issue. I modify my blocks to use a 3/8" NPT fitting at the back of the block and I drill out the horizontal oil passage that Ronnie is talking about. That is a good mod regardless of which system you use.

2) 100% System - Custom Pump: I have HARD lines inside the oil pan - connected to the bottom of the pump and through the side of the oil pan. I use a "bulkhead" style fitting through the oil pan.

3) I run #8 flexible lines from the pan, through my oil filter and back into the block. That means the ID is 1/2" - will flow much more than our little pumps can ever put out.

4) I've modified an original "Fram Style" oil filter cannister to hide a full-flow filter inside of it.

I prefer the 100% system - though it is a bit more of a pain in the ass to setup. And putting the oil pan on takes a bit of juggling (far easier on an engine stand than in the car).

I don't agree with the 95% claim anyway - I also call it a 67% system as 2 out of 3 mains have filtered oil. If a piece of crap gets into your oil system and is pumped through the rear main, it will score the bearing - that is the chance you take with a 67% system. Now, If you build really clean engines (as Ronnie does) and are meticulous on how you clean/prep/deburr blocks, assemble them properly, know how to maintain them and don't allow any pieces of sand or casting flash get into your oil - then the 67% system is just fine.

I like oil filters . . . have never seen a modern car without one.