which is the best way to go

[vangogh]

Hello Barners

More dumb question.
For yrs. now I have been able to get 30 w detergent engine oil for my '31 Vicky I have only an original air filter. People tell me that detergent oil helps with the engine. Now I am finding it is very hard to find it even online. Can I switch to regular 30 w and if so what do I need to keep in mind with only a air filter.
Thanks for listening

Paul
Prescott Valley AZ

[alexiskai]

The main difference is that detergent oil, like detergents in your washing machine, holds contaminants in suspension so that they can be rinsed out when the fluid is changed. If you don't use an oil filter, the contaminants simply recirculate until the detergent capacity of the oil is used up. Non-detergent allows contaminants to sink to the bottom of the oil pan, so they don't get removed unless you drop and clean the pan. Non-detergent oil will probably appear to be cleaner for more miles, because the contaminants aren't staying in the oil.

I gotta ask, though, why not just use regular 10W-30? In Arizona it's not like you're doing a lot of extreme cold starts.

[vangogh]

thanks for the advice. Will 10w30 work the same as detergent oil?

[Patrick L.]

Regular 30W would be detergent today, its hard to find non-detergent. So I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Many folks use a multi weight such as 15W-40 or 20W-50.

[mcgarrett]

Tractor Supply and Atwoods Farm & Ranch both have 30 wt. detergent oil in stock almost all the time.

[JOES31]

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Ace Hardware should have it. Penzzoil for one I know of.

[nkaminar]

I have started using multi grade racing oil in my engine. It is detergent oil and has additives that extend the life of the engine. The additives are not good for catalytic converters so if you are running a catalytic converter on you Model A do not use racing oil.

[Peyton]

I’m going to try synthetic 10w-30 for the next oil change. Looks like a lot of Model A owners are doing this — it’s getting real hard to find conventional oil.

I’ve read that the new synthetic oils are ok for older engines and give better protection against overheating. And they are competitive cost wise. Other than that, I strongly recommend detergent oil for clean engines.

[jb-ob]

Walmart carries Shell Rotella straight 30 wt.

[CT Jack]

All the commonly used automotive oils both regular and synthetic have cleaning agents (detergents) in their formulations already. However, these oils do not contain zinc compound additives which were included in the older oil formulations to help minimize internal component wear. If you use regular grade oils, I would add some zinc additive which is available in most automotive outlets. The zinc compounds were removed as they affect the pollution control elements contained in catalytic converters. I use racing oil in my "A" which contains the zinc additives. You will see this noted on the label.

[JoeCB]

My understanding is that the oils intended for diesel engines , like Rotilla have the zinc additives. In vintage gasoline engines that have flat tappets ( no roller followers) the zinc is highly recommended to protect the rubbing interface between lifter and cam lobe. Model A's having comparatively light valve springs, the issue may not be that critical.

Joe B

[Kevin in NJ]

Realty check here.

You need detergents to keep the stuff that forms sludge suspended so it drains out with an oil change.

You need additives to prevent nasty chemicals from forming. The byproducts of combustion allow for various corrosive chemicals to form. The additives stop them from forming.

Zinc, there is plenty of zinc in any normal oil you will buy.

Also odds are you are changing the oil way too soon. It good for a couple of years or a few thousand miles. Unless you are always on dirt roads then a bit sooner might be smart.

The truth is you will NEVER put enough miles on the car for the engine oil to be a factor in wear (well a few people will, but very very few and they drive a lot and know what they are doing). What is going to fail is what the builder screwed up and did not build properly.
The 500 mile thing in 1931 is because the oil refining process was pretty bad and the oil was losing its ability to lubricate as the molecules broke. Today that is not an issue.

My advice. Dont waste money on expensive oil. Get a basic oil with additives and detergent (most you will find at the store). Dont change it too often.

[ronn]

well said Kevin- couldnt agree more!

[Clem Clement]

Kevin,
Where is Southeast Jersey: Cape May? I'm from Woodbury (Exit 3)

[Gene F]

My engine builder was very specific... Shell Rotella straight 30 wt, and I get it at Wal-Mart. I will say this, some years back the federal govt asked them to reformualte Rotella.

Trying to talk to old-timers, and people that have rebuilt engines for years is useless. SL, SM, you can imagine....

Most of us change our oil often enough it is a low risk thing either way. When starting the engine, just let the oil circulate for a minute or more first.

[1crosscut]

I think that your confusion on this is that pretty much all of the modern oils are detergent oils but don't necessarily say that on the label. The just are. A non detergent oil will say that they are non detergent on the label.

Using a 10/30 oil of most any brand will be just fine.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

If you do change to a detergent oil, when you finish draining, reach your finger up inside the oil pan through the drain plug hole, and check for sludge. If you have sludge, then you will need to clean your pan and the oil galley behind the carburetor. Be careful not to get sludge down the drain holes that feeds the bearings.

[hazelhoff]

Read Richard Widman’s fabulous article on “choosing the right oil for Chevrolet Crovair”. The only available reading on oil you can imagine …

I decided to go for Mobil 1 10W40.