Locked-up rear end

[Del in NE Ohio]

That's my plan. I'm hoping for a u-joint fatality.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you don't find any problem at the clamshell, then you can remove the right brake drum and left side axle tube bolts, and pull the axle assembly out the left side.

[larrys40]

I agree with Tom but I think it's almost best to undo the clamshell and pull the rear axle back a little . you can then use a pair of channel lock pliers to tey and turn the driveshaft, you can complete removing the rear axle further back to access the left side housing easier to remove and also check out the u-joint and driveshaft. It's possible you have a pinion bearing issue , u torque tube/houaings and hopefully not a gear issue. Your spiders and axles appear to be ok as you turned them both in opposing directions ok .
Let us know. Best of luck!!
Larry Shepard

[Bob from Northport]

We had the very same thing happen in my shop last summer. One of the driveshaft bearings had disintegrated, and the small rollers were locking up the ring gear. I'll bet that is what you will find when the rear is disassembled. Car was driving down the roadway, and suddenly just locked up.

[Del in NE Ohio]

My efforts will now have to wait until Saturday. Delayed by good weather!

[Tom from Drippin']

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I had a problem with the same symptom in a '30 CCPU I once owned. The bearing in the torque tube (near the U joint) came apart and the rollers jammed between the drive shaft and the inside of the torque tube.
Transmission would shift, but letting the clutch out would stall the engine. The rear wheels were locked up.
Remove the rear end and check torque tube before cracking open the differential.

[Del in NE Ohio]

UPDATE! Returned today to lower/roll out rear end assembly. We found catastrophic failure of universal joint. Easy fix, back on the road this afternoon. Check out the photos.
Thanks for all of the responses!

[Tom Wesenberg]

You sure did luck out.

Is this what happens when you don't pack the cavity full of Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease?

[Big hammer]

Wow you got to quit dumping the clutch when your leaving tree at the drag strip !! :-)

[Mitch//pa]

Thanks for the update ... That's good news

[SteveE]

Originally Posted by Jerry Kzoo

Do what Tom says and put the rear end up on jack stands. Then try to spin the rear wheels on each side with the trans out of gear. If one will turn and not the other then one of the wheels is locked up. If neither will turn it could be the rear end. To get them to spin you might have to back off the brake adjustment wedges, but before you drive the car make sure they are adjusted back up.

Jerry

I installed a Mitchell O/D in my 1930 Model A and I noticed that the rear wheels will not move now (the service brakes are not engaged nor is the emergency brake). Pulled the drums to verify brake linings were not binding on the drums. Both sides are stuck.

With the car up on jack stands front and back, I placed the car in 3rd and the Mitchell O/D in LOW to see if I turned the engine the rear wheels would move but couldn't get it to budge by hand. I tried the car and O/D both in NEUTRAL too to see if I could spin the rear end but that didn't work either.

Curious if there is some binding at the ring and pinion and if I shouldn't start the car and engage the gears?

I noticed that you need special tools and presses, etc. to perform a rear-end rebuild. I own the puller kit, but not all of the special tools necessary to repair the rear end.

Thoughts on why the installation of the O/D would lead to the rear end locking up? Doesn't make sense.

[jerrytocci]

Pull the tower first