1930 wheels- powder coat or enamel?

[kimeccles]

So I believe the wheels were all black enamel then painted a color if offered like in my case Orange.

So I see some specialty shops offering close original Ford match powder coat colors enough for 6 wheels for $140 materials.

So should I powder coat, or enamel? How much is this important for judging? If they are original wheels, and correct color, is this a major deduction?

Some seem to like powder coat look or durability more, so interested in thoughts.

Thanks,
Kim

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Kim,
After 2 pages of discussions, you'll still have to make up your OWN mind.--LOL
Bill W.

[kimeccles]

Bill,

Well, you are 100% correct as usual. I will have to decide. However, I have never made it to a real MARC or MAFCA show and have not seen what can be done originally for a 1930 Model A and how they look vs aftermarket versions. I am trying to do a good job on my dad's old car that I helped him restore in 1964. He asked me to keep it "original".

Yes I will drive this and I do not want it perfect, but close.

Yes I plan on going to Reno to see "real" cars this year, but I seriously doubt my car will be ready in time so I am going probably just with my wife to both learn, not show or grade the car this time.

But, I hear powder coat can smooth out some rough spokes and small pits or many hours of sanding and fillers, etc.

Interested in others involved with blue ribbon ( not Henry Ford) level judging.
Thanks

I just want to know if powder coat is a huge deduction of several points or not. Very hard to know value of blue ribbon judging if not involved.

[1930-Pickup]

My experience has been that with PC you will see every single little imperfection. With paint you can at least skim coat the metal before applying paint.

Compared to paint, PC is harder to touch up, but its more resistant to chipping.

Dont forget that PC is actually plastic...with all its benefits and issues...

[kimeccles]

thanks. I do not want to see every imperfection. so maybe I was misled.

I guess I need to sandblast, prime a lot, sand a lot and paint a lot.

No powders or plastics on this one or my dad would not be happy.

Nothing is easy.

[160B]

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FWIW
You need to look closely at the RG&JS.

Area 22 covers Wheels, Tires, and Valve Stems.

Here is page 22-1 for your info.

Note the statement about the butt weld.

In fine point judging they will look for the butt weld seam on the outer rim and the weld area where the spoke is welded to the outer rim and expect to see the butt weld seam on the rim and weld imperfections at the weld of the spoke to the rim.

If you over fill and sand you will lose points for over restoration.

[duke36]

Originally, factory black wheels were dipped in enamel (not lacquer) and spun like a centrifuge to distribute the paint and dried.
Some shops can shoot a special primer that is resistant to high temps used in the process but adds to cost. Also, as stated, powder coat colors, other than (most) blacks, can be difficult to touch up via matching with Centari or other non powder enamels..
Acrylic enamel (still available in many areas if not VOC regulated) is a good option with easy color matching and touch up, by companies such as TCP Global in southern Cal. They have experience with original A colors and will ship out of state.
Some Model A clubs /owners may have jigs to spin the wheels during paint application.
We have used both processes, and deep pits, etc. are easier to fill and sand when applying Acrylic enamel--- which needs no clear top coat and probably comes close to the factory appearance.

[Terry, NJ]

I am scared of powder coating wheels! Why is that ?you ask. If you live in a dry area, go ahead. In place like Pa.I wouldn't do it. Go look at PCed truck steps and other PCed parts. And definitely go look at PCed boat trailers. Here you can get a first hand view of what happens to PCed items over time. First the item is PCed, Looks Great! Then it get nicked or scratched. No big Deal! Moisture gets in under the PC and literally eats/rots the metal away. And the PC gives no indication that this is happening, it forms a perfect envelope over the steel, until the last stages of the this process. Paint with a good surface preparation, good quality primer and finish with an enamel of epoxy.
Terry

[Corley]

If you live in the NW, just drop them off all ugly at Les Schabe tire stores, and get them back all nice and powder coated for $50 per wheel. Look really good, and don't need redone in 10 years.

[denis4x4]

To Terry and probably Tom, truck products and boat trailers are not a good example to use when discussing the merits of PC. The 16" wheel in the photo was done 19 years ago and still looks good. The shop I use also has 12 oz. aerosol touch up that is a perfect match. The Model A powered hot rod I have is fenderless and the radius rods, axles and complete frame were PC'ed 19 years ago. Like any procedure, there are Good shops and not so good shops out there.

As to judging, I'm not qualified to comment.....but, I've had lots of PC done over the last 25 years and find a lot of misstatements every time this subject pops up.

[Scottio57]

I noticed when I clean the white walls on my T, with white wall specific cleaner, it dulls the one wheel that is painted and does not change the other three that are powder coated. Someday I will have that third wheel powder coated.

[biggieou]

I just had mine PC'd and am happy with the results! This is really your call. If you're going for a Henry award, PC definitely isn't the way to go. Anything less than that and it's whatever you feel comfortable with.

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