Brake Roller Tracks

[170bdlx]

Due to loud squeaking on hard braking I am considering replacing the roller tracks. I see Brattons has them. What experience have you had doing this?

Finished restoration 2 years ago. Driven about 6000 miles. Always had the issue. Drums turned, shoes arched, tracks welded but today I found the distance from the track to spring stud/river to be over 1-1/2 " + Not the 1-5/16+ it should be. Would this cause my problem? Everything else seems OK.

[1931 flamingo]

Did you chamfer leading and trailing edges on the shoes?? Rivited or bonded lining??
Paul in CT

[170bdlx]

Did chamfer, linings are riveted by myself. They look tight.

[Duffy1]

Steel or Cast Iron drums ?

[170bdlx]

Cast, original to car. Turned once when I put on drum bands, no drag.

[wrndln]

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I wasn't happy with the rear brake roller tracks I bought from Bratton's which is unusual as their parts are usually top quality. They were not made as well as Bratton's usually does. The tracks were thinner than the original tracks and just not quite right in my opinion. I returned the tracks and restored the originals by building up the worn areas with weld and dressing them down. The front tracks they sell are OK, as they are very simple and seem to be hardened.
Rusty Nelson

[Tim B.]

What does the wear pattern on the shoe look like? Even wear, more towards either one end or the other or more in the middle? Drums and shoes aren't glazed are they? Just some things that may provide a clue. Tim

[Keith True]

If you check the location of the shoes with a centering tool,and they are OK,and they are working well,I don't think you have a problem with the tracks.If you have bands on the drums they are not cast,but the original pressed steel.That was the whole idea of the bands,to make the pressed steel drums behave like cast.The OD of the cast is too big for the bands,plus the lip is in the way for the band to fit over.I've always been just as happy with banded steel drums as I have been with cast.

[Junior]

I just replaced the rear roller tracks on my Tudor. I purchased them from Brattons. Brattons says they have the tracks made from original ford blueprints. I was actually impressed with them. Dad got the rivets cherry red with the welder and I knocked the crap out of them with a big hammer and they turned out great.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

I don't see where you say what type of linings you have. Woven linings on cast drums can squeal, especially when not super tightly riveted. On Cast, I prefer a soft, gray bonded lining. Of course, the advice to check the wear pattern and concentricity of the shoes is good advice.

[Purdy Swoft]

Installing new repro brake tracks doesn't automatically center the brake shoes within the drums.

[170bdlx]

Opps, they are steel drums with bands. The linings are worn uneven but not bad. They are not brazed. I think the shoes are too low as there is some paint rub on the top part of the backing plate where the face drops off. Rollers, operating wedge and wedge stud are NOS and show no ware.

[Tim B.]

The uneven wear and the pattern tells you what area of the shoe is not touching the drum (or chattering) and how much of the shoe is actually stopping you which can relate to squeal. If it shoe worn on the top or bottom or if the wear is located on the crown it provides information of how the shoes are located in relation to the drum or how the arch of the shoe matches the curvature of the drum. Once you understand that relationship you can figure out what needs to be fixed. It's where the wear pattern is located and what it looks like type of question not how a how badly worn and is it safe type of question. Tim

[170bdlx]

Thanks everyone. Now I have a plan and will report after I get a few parts and test.