Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?

[Low-Blow]

First of all, let me say that this is my first post here at Ford Barn. I have been a member of the H.A.M.B. for several years now, and was told that I could get really good advice on my project here. I recently scored a stock 8Ba out of a '53 Customline. I have no history on the the engine as far as when it last ran, or if there were any problems with it. The guy that I bought it from told me that the engine turned freely, but that there were a few valves that would not close. I have always wanted a Flathead, and the price was right, so I bought it. I brought it home and started tearing into it. With some help from an older friend, I now have a bare block. From initial inspection, there is only one crack. And, it is no where near the cylinder bore. I am in the process now of getting all the rust/scale out of the water jackets. I am then going to de-grease it and send it to the machine shop to have it magnafluxed and pressure tested.

My plans are to build something more than stock, but not a race engine. It will be a cruiser, and something that I would like to get 20K miles out of. My flatty has the EAB heads, which I am going to reuse. My older friend has a 4" Merc crank that he is going to let me use. It will likely need to be ground because of some rusting on the journals. I am also going to run dual 94 carbs. Some immediate questions that I have are as follows.

1. The cylinders do not have much wear. Assuming that the block checks out at the machine shop, how much should it should it be bored?

2. Cam recommendation? I definitely want it to have that nasty, loping sound.

3. Adjustable lifters or not?

Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Binx]

For cam I would suggest the Isky 1007B as heard here with a 4" crank...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3-_wY0xHF4

I'd suggest inspecting the rear thrust surface on the crank before using it. That's the disc the back of the rear main bearing rides on. Be sure it is flat and smooth. If its rough and tapered to a knife edge, you'll wear your rods and wrist pins quickly.

Lonnie

[Ray Balukas]

Get in touch with Walt Dupont here on the barn. The Flathead King!

[tubman]

As far as a bore goes, I've done 3 8BA's and bored them all to 3 5/16" (1/8" over) with no problems. I figured since I had to buy a set of pistons anyway, why not go for a decent increase in displacement. (an 1/8" overbore increases the displacement by about 6%). Unless there are other problems (severe rust pitting or core shift which I have never seen), there should be room for a couple of more overbores, should they be needed. Realistically, in the entire scheme of things, most builds from this time period will probably be the last any of these engines see. For an engine that is not going to be raced, I wouldn't hesitate to go to 3 3/8" if I got as good a deal as I got on my last set of 3 5/16" pistons.

[scooder]

Your gonna need a different ignition with dual carbs.
A converted sbc delco is your best bet.
They are available from a few folk on here. Charlie Ny is great guy and will set you up with the ignition with mechanical AND vacuum advance, this is the best way. Bubba does them too but prefers to do mechanical only.
Don't buy a store bought ignition! These mostly have completely the wrong ignition curve.
Martin.

[JWL]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

For best results bore near the minimum required to get clean-up and coordinate with pistons available.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Getting a copy of JWL's and Ol Ron's books would be good reads for you before starting your rebuild.
Welcome to the Fordbarn.

[Cecil/WV]

I agree with JWL, I would never bore any more than necessary. Any difference in a driver isn't worth it.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by JWL

For best results bore near the minimum required to get clean-up and coordinate with pistons available.

Even though we sell many kits that go directly to the 3.312" o'size I personally am in 100% agreement with John here. For a couple reasons, first, you shorten the life of the block for future builds, second (you may not totally believe this but dyno tests prove it for us on many builds), the "thinner" the walls the more power you lose, and third, there will no "major" power difference whether you go .030" over or .125" over. We are ONLY talking bore size here NOT stroke. You WILL pick up much with the upstroke but not so much from the add'l o'bore increase?

With respect to your build recommendations, when we do any Flatheads over here, there are 2 procedures that are NEVER open for debate, my customer's are made aware of this going in and I haven't had a single one "walk".

First one is the "block-plate" is used to finish the bore's, this is mandatory, and second one, they must agree to the bronze guide option. Everything else is "open to debate".

The only other item in the build strongly recommended here is the use of some type "moly" ring and preferably a newer style "metric" pack. We have them on the shelf for a smaller o'bore, but ONLY in +.040" (3.228"). We keep the Ross pistons on the shelf for this setup also but only for the 4.000" (stock-Merc) stroke. None of this is mandatory, only recommended, especially if you are "chasing" HP though.

For the 3.312" bore we have 6 kits on the shelf now at all times. Most are 3.312" x 4.250", very popular seller's! These straight-forward builds average 150+ HP and 250+ Torque easily.

(Add) The build in my signature below here I believe has close to 30,000 on it now. It is a very comfortable "driver" according to my friend, the owner. It was built a while back.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We've learned over the years the value of block-plate honing and about valves "sticking/hanging" during storage periods. The bronze-line guides solve this particular issue. If your original guides are in decent shape you don't need to purchase new ones, simply line those originals,we do this all the time!

[JSeery]

Here is what the JWL and Ol Ron look like, good place to start. I also included two other good sources.

[scooder]

Camshaft,
I'd say the 1007B isky for your stock heads. Available from Pete on here. With high compression heads, I'd go with the L100, this really needs high compression to get the benefit. More than the EAB heads deliver. I'm fully aware lots of folk have run this can with stock compression, and it'll sound real nice and work ok. But, big butt, this cam AND high compression will really wake you and the engine up! Trust me, I've done it. The L100 is currently available from kiwinus on here, he calls it the kiwi L100.
Both these chaps have different grinds available.
These two cams will have an aggressive idle and pull like a freight train from idle to 5500rpm ish on the 1007b and north of scary with the L100, I've had that one past 7000 rpm with a 3 3/4" crank and 9 1/4:1 heads !!!
Martin.
ps. I would use stock lifters and butt ground valves rather than adjustable ones. If you want adjustable ones, do the research and get hollow ones.
Martin.

[Low-Blow]

Thank you for all of the comments so far. I am going to have the block checked first and move forward from there. It was my belief from the beginning that the minimal amount of bore the better (since it will be a driver). I am glad that everyone is confirming that. I am also glad to know that the Isky 1007B will work with my stock EAB heads. Good stuff! I am very excited about this build, and will continue to post updates.

[jack orchard]

Any opinions about the use of a Max1 with EAB heads?

[KiWinUS]

G'Day low blow , good luck with your build , here is a short clip of the
KiWi-L100 cam in "CheaterPete's" awesome 32 roadster. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwNDUhwwUbY
I can supply you with this cam or a 1007LD Isky I dom have other options also , its your choice & you will get many opinions . Scooder is a great source of info with real live experience !
Cheers
Tony

[Low-Blow]

Ok, stupid question here!! When you talk about a 1007LD or an L100, you are not referring to "off the shelf cams", correct? Are these cams that have been ground to certain specs based on performance?

[KiWinUS]

Yes that is correct. They are after market hot rod cams. L100 is an old Literio grind th 1007ld is an old Isky grind.
Cheers
Tony

[Low-Blow]

I've been thinking about other questions to ask with regards to this build. Again, I am not buying anything for the engine until I verify that the block is good.

1. Gasket Sets (Engine & Carburetor) - Are all the same?

2. Oil Pump - Should I rebuild the existing pump or replace it with a new one? From what I have read, the standard volume pump will be sufficient. Can anyone confirm?

3. Converting to 12V - I want to do this. I know that there are several opinions on whether to just change the coils in the existing generator, replace with a 12V generator, or install a 12V alternator. I personally like the look of the generator on the engine. If the 12V changeover is simple and effective, I think that's the route I'd like to go. Also, would I have to change the starter, or will the existing 6V starter work?

Again, just throwing out questions as they come to mind. Thanks for your time and input!

[Low-Blow]

Also, if you would like to see pics of the engine from the time I bought it until now, you can access the thread on the H.A.M.B. below.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...thead.1013594/

[Low-Blow]

bump

[41LjH]

Here are a few points not previously mentioned.
1. In case you aren't aware the pistons for the 4" crank are different. So be sure to specify you have a 4" crank when you order parts.
2. valve clearance is critical. Using the heads you have is fine, but the valve clearance needs to be checked if you are increasing valve lift because your heads may have been milled. The cam in my video is a Isky Max I which is a new cam. My current flathead build is a Isky 400 jr regrind. Most parts houses sell new cams which, according to many, may be inferior to regrinds because of the material now being used in manufacturing.
3. I believe Melling 19 is the best choice for an oil pump. I would not trust a sixty year old oil pump, checked or not, with a lot of new parts..
4. Several options exist concerning a 12 volt distributor. I prefer Mallory/MSD units. Bubba has conversions that also work well. A one wire 12V alternator is pretty easy to install and gives you more space on the intake for carburetors. The 6volt starter works fine.

Good Luck

[Bassman/NZ]

I wouldn't do a thing to that engine until you have read JWL's Flathead Facts book. It will save you a bunch of unnecessary spending. Even if you have no other, that is the one book every flathead owner should have.

[Low-Blow]

I am definitely going to get that book, as well as some of the others that have been previously mentioned. Thanks!

[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by 41LjH

I would not trust a sixty year old oil pump, checked or not, with a lot of new parts..

Would this hold true for the fuel pump as well?

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Would this hold true for the fuel pump as well?

Stuff can be rebuilt to specs...fuelpumps and oilpumps.
Being able to test parts is a big advantage when rebuilding.

[scooder]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Would this hold true for the fuel pump as well?

Both pumps, fuel and oil are perfectly fine for use if, IF, there rebuilt correctly and within spec.

In my opinion, correctly rebuilt is often preferable to most new reproduction stuff.
For example, new fuel pumps oftentimes deliver to much fuel pressure, lots have diaphragms that get eaten by corn gas. Charlie Ny can build you a fuel pump that will survive pumping paint thinners!
Martin.

[JSeery]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I agree that rebuilt (correctly) and/or refurbished is often superior to new. Has nothing to do with engines, but another area it is true is master cylinders and wheel cylinders. I would lean toward the rebuilt, especially on items where you have Barn members that supply superior products.

[Low-Blow]

Super excited right now! I dropped off the block and heads today at the machine shop. The gentleman who will be doing the work is now retired and works out of his brother's backyard shop. He came highly recommended from a good friend. I believe that he is qualified, as he spent 22 years working for Reher-Morrison. I can't wait to get on with this build. Thank you for all of the good input so far.

[41LjH]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Would this hold true for the fuel pump as well?

Fuel pumps are a lot easier to change than oil pumps so they are not as critical. Also understand duel carburetors may need an electric fuel pump to boost the flow. Personally I use electric pumps. If you replace the mechanical pump don't forget to plug the push rod hole.

[Low-Blow]

Can the 2-piece valve guides be used in the later model flatheads? If so, what are the pros and cons?

[flatheadmurre]

I would say less oil control and more work while installing is all you get from using them.
I only use them if someone is really twisting my arm to do so...reusing the one piece guide with bronze liners is the best cost/performance if you ask me.

[Ol' Ron]

I wouldn't us a Mellings pump if was free. Plus the rebuild parts are made by Mellings as well. Just check the stock pump, that's all I use.

[Ol' Ron]

You must have a reason to change anything inside an engine. You have to know what the pat does and why it whould be changed. 2 piece guides are for .312 valves?? also if you change cams you might want to use chevy valves. There are reasons for this and a few dozen other things. You can use the 8BA rods with the Merc crank but you will have to get the assy balanced. You have allot of reading to do.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Why not think about doing your build post here on Fordbarn. Would be interesting to follow your progress, understand what you do and why, and see pictures of what you do along the way. The HAMB is good, but some members here, like me, only go there occasionally, and when I do, I really don't seem to navigate there that well, or even understand the format since the last round of changes that were made.

[tubman]

I agree about a build thread. Plus, the H.A.M.B. moves way to fast for an old guy like me. A new thread can move off the first page in less than an hour some days. It is literally like a full time job to keep up with everything going on there.

[Low-Blow]

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. I asked about the valve guides because a friend of mine found some NOS at a swap meet. The price was right, so he picked them up. I will definitely move the build thread to this forum once it is started. The guy doing the machine work to the block has not had a chance to get to it yet. So, I am in a holding pattern for now.

[Low-Blow]

Well, it has been almost a year since I have posted here. Life happens, you know! My wife and I sold our home and moved into a duplex; while we build our new home. In turn, I had to put a lot of things in storage until the new place is finished. Our storage unit was broken into a few months ago. They must have been ground keepers at a golf course, since they stole my clubs, my chainsaw, and my weedeater (along with some other tools). Luckily, they didn't touch any of the flathead parts!! In the past year, little progress has been made on the engine. This is not all bad, however, as I really don't have anywhere to put it for another couple of months. But, I was able to get the block vatted and magnafluxed. Turns out that the block is in very good condition. There were a couple of small cracks, but nothing in the seats or the cylinders. I have provided pics below.

[Low-Blow]

Here are a couple of more pics. One shows the 8 new exhaust seats, and the other shows the cylinders after being cleaned up. They cleaned up at about .015. So, a question that I have is should I have them bored to .020 or to .030? In all of my ignorance, my initial thought is less is better. But, I would think that availability and cost may also be a determining factor. Also, I need to get some input on pistons, since the engine machine shop needs them. Again, I am planning on building a cruiser and not a hot rod; 4" Crank, Cam, Dual Carbs, Stock EAB Heads. I'm not looking to build an $8K engine. Any input would be appreciated.

[flatheadmurre]

If you are building a motor that you want power out of more displacement aint a bad thing...it´s almost a must if you want to get enough bottom end with a hotter camshaft.
If it was me i would go .125 oversize.
Why no hardseats on the intake ?

[rotorwrench]

You will have to use the closest size to the cleaned up bore that you can get. Egge has Mercury type pistons for 4-inch stroke in a lot of over sizes. They are cast and 4-ring type but they worked OK for me.

[Talkwrench]

Block prep ..open up the exhaust ports, intake , port match and transfer area. Drill for 90% oil flow etc etc ... Do this before boring+ machining. If you want that is ..

[Ol' Ron]

The first thing i'd do is have the block Baked cleaned after the pressure testing. After that the most important Mod is compression, make sure the piston th head clearance is very tight .045/.050. These are somple inexpensive modifications,If you keep the rods with the crank, no need to balance. If it's a 52/3 block it had no harden seats in the exhaust. have them installed. It should have EAB heads. these are the highest R ford made.
Good luck.

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Our storage unit was broken into a few months ago. They must have been ground keepers at a golf course, since they stole my clubs, my chainsaw, and my weedeater (along with some other tools).

You'll be fine without the golf sticks. The chainsaw will be missed. Karma should rule.

[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

The first thing i'd do is have the block Baked cleaned after the pressure testing. After that the most important Mod is compression, make sure the piston th head clearance is very tight .045/.050. These are somple inexpensive modifications,If you keep the rods with the crank, no need to balance. If it's a 52/3 block it had no harden seats in the exhaust. have them installed. It should have EAB heads. these are the highest R ford made.
Good luck.

Thank you for the reply. The hardened seats have already been installed in the exhaust. And, yes, I will be running the stock EAB heads. As far as the pistons go, I need to purchase those now. Since I will be running a 4" Merc crank, I cannot use the stock pistons and will probably buy new rods as well. Do you have a recommendation on pistons? I have read other posts about 3 ring vs. 4 ring and whether or not to run a 4 ring piston and just leave the 4th ring off. I'm not looking to break the bank with this build, but would like to build a reliable engine to be used in a driver. Any input on pistons?

[flatheadmurre]

Start by setting up some goals for the motor...how hot and what is it going to pull.
Something going into a heavy car needs torq.
If youre going for a mild engine...just get a good set of cast pistons...no need for anything fancy...forged ones is not needed then and just noisy.
Don´t overcam it.
Stock rods work just fine if youre not aiming for real serious power.
A good plan and sticking to it is usually the receipe for sucess and not throwing money away.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Well, it has been almost a year since I have posted here. Life happens, you know! My wife and I sold our home and moved into a duplex; while we build our new home. In turn, I had to put a lot of things in storage until the new place is finished. Our storage unit was broken into a few months ago. They must have been ground keepers at a golf course, since they stole my clubs, my chainsaw, and my weedeater (along with some other tools). Luckily, they didn't touch any of the flathead parts!! In the past year, little progress has been made on the engine. This is not all bad, however, as I really don't have anywhere to put it for another couple of months. But, I was able to get the block vatted and magnafluxed. Turns out that the block is in very good condition. There were a couple of small cracks, but nothing in the seats or the cylinders. I have provided pics below.

Just a tip, but make sure your guy pressure-tests that block, magnafluxing is not enough, been there/done it many times!

Do NOT rely on the "magging" alone.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. This would also be the right time to go with a new set of stainless valves AND some bronzed-lined guides. Actually have a set of guides coming down all the way from Alaska for the liners. They work really well.

[Low-Blow]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Start by setting up some goals for the motor...how hot and what is it going to pull.
Something going into a heavy car needs torq.
If youre going for a mild engine...just get a good set of cast pistons...no need for anything fancy...forged ones is not needed then and just noisy.
Don´t overcam it.
Stock rods work just fine if youre not aiming for real serious power.
A good plan and sticking to it is usually the receipe for sucess and not throwing money away.

Thanks for the input. My goal is to run this engine in a 35-37 Tudor slant back. I am currently on the lookout for one. Again, not looking for a real hot engine, but do love the sound of a lopey cam. Dual 94's, stock EAB heads, 4" crank. Looking to build something reliable that I can cruise around town, as well as take on longer trips.

[kegmon]

x2 on the baked cleaning suggestion from Ol' Ron. Mine came back looking like it was fresh out of the foundry. Saves a lot of time and effort trying to get all that scale and crap out of the water jackets and wasn't that expensive. I'm building an 8BA with much the same goals in mind as you are and am slowly gathering or rebuilding all the parts necessary. Seems every little thing is about $200.. Also, be sure to put a little oil or something on that fresh bore work if you need to let it sit for a while as you do not want surface rust to turn into pitting.. Just my 2 cents...

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Thank you for the reply. The hardened seats have already been installed in the exhaust. And, yes, I will be running the stock EAB heads. As far as the pistons go, I need to purchase those now. Since I will be running a 4" Merc crank, I cannot use the stock pistons and will probably buy new rods as well. Do you have a recommendation on pistons? I have read other posts about 3 ring vs. 4 ring and whether or not to run a 4 ring piston and just leave the 4th ring off. I'm not looking to break the bank with this build, but would like to build a reliable engine to be used in a driver. Any input on pistons?

With modern three piece oil rings, that fourth ring is superfluous. Not needed! Just more drag. Some will claim that it helps "stabilize" the piston in the cylinder, but in reality it can't! Rings float free in their grooves so cannot impart any stability to the piston. Also, since rings must move freely in their grooves, they also rotate, so from time to time all the gaps will be lined up. Contrary to legend, the engine will still start and run!

[Low-Blow]

I appreciate all the input. The guy who is doing the machine work on the block and heads has been building engines for many years. He is going to look into his cost on the pistons and get back to me. He is doing the work on the side, so the process is taking a little longer.

[tubman]

Speedway has Offenhauser pistons for $159.95 a set in their current catalog. I think they may be closing them out to make room for their own brand. This may be an opportunity you can take advantage of.

[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by tubman

Speedway has Offenhauser pistons for $159.95 a set in their current catalog. I think they may be closing them out to make room for their own brand. This may be an opportunity you can take advantage of.

Since I will be running a 4" Merc crank, it looks like the price is $229.99. These are 4 ring pistons. So, I would only run the 3 rings (according to most everyone's input). Also, it looks as if I only have a choice of .060 or .125. Since the block cleaned up at .015, I was thinking of boring to .030. Am I being too conservative?

[Ol' Ron]

Contact Max VP for pistons, and other parts. Very helpful people there.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Since I will be running a 4" Merc crank, it looks like the price is $229.99. These are 4 ring pistons. So, I would only run the 3 rings (according to most everyone's input). Also, it looks as if I only have a choice of .060 or .125. Since the block cleaned up at .015, I was thinking of boring to .030. Am I being too conservative?

I am from the school that says "if you're spend the time and money boring it, you may as well go to the largest reasonable overbore you can". When I did my current 258" engine (stock stroke, 3 5/16 bore), my machinist sonic checked the block and said it would easily go to 3 3/8". Since Speedway didn't have 3 3/8" pistons on special, I went with the 3 5/16". These were 4 ring pistons and I also left the fourth ring off. I am building this engine for me, not the next owner. Even so, there is room for at most 2 more "clean-up" bore jobs (forgetting intermediate hones) should the museum caretaker in 2237 decide the engine needs to be rebuilt. A '35-'37 tudor qualifies in my book as a "heavy" car, so you want all the torque you can get. Displacement means torque; get all you can. I am sure that even at 3 5/16 you will have thicker cylinder walls that most modern thinwall castings.

[Pilot31135]

Originally Posted by tubman

I am from the school that says "if you're spend the time and money boring it, you may as well go to the largest reasonable overbore you can". When I did my current 258" engine (stock stroke, 3 5/16 bore), my machinist sonic checked the block and said it would easily go to 3 3/8". Since Speedway didn't have 3 3/8" pistons on special, I went with the 3 5/16". These were 4 ring pistons and I also left the fourth ring off. I am building this engine for me, not the next owner. Even so, there is room for at most 2 more "clean-up" bore jobs (forgetting intermediate hones) should the museum caretaker in 2237 decide the engine needs to be rebuilt. A '35-'37 tudor qualifies in my book as a "heavy" car, so you want all the torque you can get. Displacement means torque; get all you can. I am sure that even at 3 5/16 you will have thicker cylinder walls that most modern thinwall castings.

Many say not to over bore, leave room for future rebuilds. Couldn't you have the engine sleeved in that case? I say if you want big cubic inches go for it! It's your motor.
Ol' Ron what say you?


"Hard tellin' not knowin!"

[Ol' Ron]

Well, I must admit, More cubes means more CR, and torque. Just remember one thing. Tuning a modified engine need some thought as well. There is only one distributor that works well with these engines and an AF meter would be helpful for the (carbs???)

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Pilot31135

Many say not to over bore, leave room for future rebuilds. Couldn't you have the engine sleeved in that case? I say if you want big cubic inches go for it! It's your motor.
Ol' Ron what say you?


"Hard tellin' not knowin!"

Yeah, and you should put seat covers on your new upholstery too, so the next owner can enjoy it!

[Low-Blow]

Just picked up a 4" Merc crank from a very nice gentleman in Colorado. I believe that he is a member here on Ford Barn. I've also been in contact with Pete regarding my cam selection and believe that we have settled on a 3/8 Potvin grind. As long as they check out ok, I am going to use the OEM rods that came out of the engine. And, after a lot of contemplating, and going back and forth, I have decided to bore the block 3 5/16. This is as long as the sonic test results are good. I am building this engine to keep and drive. And, with my driving habits, I do not foresee another overhaul for many years. Thank you all for the input thus far. I will post again when I have more updates.

[Low-Blow]

So, since I have elected to go with a 3 5/16 bore x 4.00 stroke, should I go with forged pistons over the cast ones?

[kegmon]

Cast pistons will do just fine for a street motor that's being built for reliability instead of high performance. Egge sells a set for a little less than $250. Also, IIRC, forged pistons are more expensive and are more for those who want to race or 'chase horsepower'.

[pooch]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Yes that is correct. They are after market hot rod cams. L100 is an old Literio grind th 1007ld is an old Isky grind.
Cheers
Tony

Is there any info on durations of these cams?

I would like to see both durations as compared to a stock cam if possible.

My next rebuild is going to have a lumpy idle.

[Bored&Stroked]

Since you're going to build a 276 cubic inch engine, the Potvin 3/8 is a very good cam for it. 'Pete' is one of my good friends, you can't go wrong with a cam from him. As far as pistons go - lots of options and different price points. It kind of comes down to what you can afford to spend - for what reason.

I tend to run Ross forged pistons with 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm metric rings - the best rings I can find. BUT - this is not the inexpensive way to go (ends up being about $100 a slug).

You can go with a cast piston and "traditional" ring packages for closer to $300 - $350 . . . so if you want to save a few dollars, then go this route.

-> Parts: Mac VanPelt is a great guy to speak with - talk to him about piston/ring packages. Like Gary below - he has a lot of what you may need.

-> Gary GosFast: He has some great valve, guides and spring packages - talk to him about a complete setup. He also has a lot of the other parts - so worth a discussion.

Rods - Consider New Ones: The stock rods are just fine, but if they need rebuilding, you might just want to buy a brand new set from SoCal for about $225 or so (non floaters - insert bearings). In the end, the cost will be about the same and you'll have new rods.

Balancing: Since you're changing up a bunch of stuff, I would have the reciprocating assembly precision balanced (including clutch, flywheel, etc). You'll love how smooth it will run.

Valve Job: This is the area where you want to ensure that your machine shop has the correct tools and knows flatheads well. I tend to see the biggest issues in this area - due to some shops not having the correct flathead mandrels for the seat work and not knowing the peculiarities of the flathead (like the valves are higher on the driver's side).

Piston to head Clearance: As Ole' Ron said - it is very important to "tune" the clearance to achieve a .040 to about .045 piston to head clearance. Running a tight 'squish' area is very advantageous to these engines. BUT, your machine shop will need to clay the heads, measure the head gasket thickness (about .052 - typically) and mill the heads for this to be correct. AND, he needs to check the valve to head clearances with the Potvin Cam. He may need to increase the depth of the valve pockets up at the TOP area of the valve reliefs in the heads. The valves are at an angle, so don't just let him fly cut the valve pockets parallel to the deck surface (like most guys do).

Good luck - feel free to PM me if you need anything. You'll have a really nice engine in the end!

B&S

[19Fordy]

Thinner walls can create more cavitation which means more heat.
Follow JWL's advice.

[FordyToo!]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

3. Converting to 12V - I want to do this. I know that there are several opinions on whether to just change the coils in the existing generator, replace with a 12V generator, or install a 12V alternator. I personally like the look of the generator on the engine. If the 12V changeover is simple and effective, I think that's the route I'd like to go. Also, would I have to change the starter, or will the existing 6V starter work?

Every light bulb will need to be replaced (headlights, taillights, dashboard, etc.).


DAMHIKT!
(Don't Ask Me How I Know That!)

P.S. you will want to install a 6 volt regulator such as a 7806 Integrated Circuit to drop the voltage for the dash gauges.

FordyToo!
dona nobis pacem

[Low-Blow]

Ok, quick question. Does anyone know of a shop in the Dallas / Fort Worth area that would sonic test my block?

[JSeery]

Sonic testing isn't specific to a flathead, any high performance engine shop should have that capability. However, a shop with flathead experience would be a plus.

[Low-Blow]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by JSeery

Sonic testing isn't specific to a flathead, any high performance engine shop should have that capability. However, a shop with flathead experience would be a plus.

Thank you. I talked with a speed shop nearby an they said they send their flatheads to Dave Pluebell. I have seen his name mentioned on the H.A.M.B. I may reach out to him.

[Low-Blow]

Had some goodies show up today, thanks to Mack Van Pelt. After a lot of thinking, I have decided to bore the block .060. I’m going to drop the parts off at the engine builder this weekend. More updates to come.

[Low-Blow]

It's been a while since I have posted on this thread. The build is starting to progress a little further. For camshaft, I have settled on a 1007B grind to be done by Pete. Since I will be running (2) 94's, it has been suggested that I go with an Edelbrock Slingshot intake. I took the following from Summit's page....

"The intakes are available for dual carburetor 1938-48 engines or in a single 4-barrel version for 1949-53 engines."

I have read threads about folks using this manifold, with dual carb setup, on 8BA engines. Can someone confirm this, and chime in as to what modifications will have to be made?

[19Fordy]

On an 8BA you don't loose oil pressure if you don't plug the fuel pump push rod hole. What does happen is that you get excessive amount of oil splashing up into the lifter valley. You can make an oil fill tube with an extension that rests on top of the fuel pump push rod hole, if desired. Then you use an electric fuel pump.
PS: Others may disagree.

[19Fordy]

FYI: If you choose to use an OFFY 4 barrel intact be aware that it will offset your generator and fan pulley 7/8 in. towards the driver side of your engine. NOT GOOD. Read all of this thread.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nerator+offset

[Low-Blow]

Update>>>I ordered a lot of new parts from Mack at Van Pelt and dropped them off with the engine builder on Saturday. I ordered a reproduction Edelbrock Slingshot manifold last night and am looking forward to getting it! The next line of business is to have the carburetors rebuilt and to look into getting a new distributor. I am going to Bubba's for the distributor, but need advice on who to have rebuild the (2) Holley 94's. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

[19Fordy]

There are several Fordbarners who rebuild carbs. A SEARCH will yield positive results.

[tubman]

As stated, there are several out there. I will personally recommend "CharlieNY" since I have had good experiences with him. He does excellent work, and seems to be able to meet his promised delivery dates.

[flatjack9]

Can't beat Charlie, NY.