Bad Gas Petcocks.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Today I was supposed to get my PU back from being worked on, ain't going to happen. As long as I was having more major things done, I told the mechanic to look into my gas shutoff, had a slow drip leak to the carb when it was in the off position. Figured it was a simple fix, let him do it.


He was going to replace it with one bought online, did a vacuum test on the replacement before installation, and it also isn't good, same issue.


The 1st one was a replacement 7 years ago. He disassembled the 1st one and it had a small amount of metal grit/shavings, damage to the ball.


The replacement was never installed, it was out of box fresh. He then disassembled it and found the same thing.


Both marked made in China.


Seems odd, 2 petcocks 7 years apart, same issue. Since the 2cnd one was not installed should not be issue with crud in the gas tank.


Before ordering another one, am I missing something, suggestions?

[Jacksonlll]

It is a crap shoot. I just got one and is ok

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Are you saying this is known to happen with gas petcocks?


Do you disassemble and inspect before using it and installing it?

[Vic in E-TN]

30 Closed Cab:
I recently wrote an article for my club newsletter (Smoky Mountain Model A Club - Rumble Seat Reviewer) and described my fix. Go to Fastenal and purchase a 5/16 in needle valve with compression fittings. Cut out a section out of the fuel line under the tank and put the valve in. It is part number 68779 and costs about $6 each. I have been using these for many years. They flow enough to keep you at the speed limit.


Vic

[F.M.]

Get an Original one, Restore it, & go leak free..

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by F.M.

Get an Original one, Restore it, & go leak free..

YUP, that's the way to go. At $1.60, the repair kit makes an old valve as good as new. I don't even waste time lapping an old one. All of the vendors have the kit.

[Bob C]

Also any rust or junk in the tank can damage the valve.


Bob

[ursus]

Folks have been complaining about finding metal shavings and machining debris in the offshore manufactured repop valves for a number of years. Find an original or do as Synchro909 says in previous post.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by ursus

Folks have been complaining about finding metal shavings and machining debris in the offshore manufactured repop valves for a number of years. Find an original or do as Synchro909 says in previous post.

Thanks.
Curious, if immediately dissembled/cleaned out of box, will they be OK, or is damage already done when they are shipped?

[37 Coupe]

Supposedly the one I bought from Bratton's is USA made and warranteed three years. Is this not true or are some suppliers selling China ones?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Thanks to all, found an old petcock, gentlemen assured me it does not leak, but have also ordered a rebuild kit just in case it leaks, or starts leaking in the future. Both are shipping to me.


FYI, my mechanic tried to recondition both the bad petcocks because out of curiosity, lapped them (whatever that means), reassembled both, tried them without installing, vacuum tested them, and issue remained. Disassembled and both balls were grooved again. He thinks there is contamination in both petcock valve bodies, particle of steel or something.


He did mention that the Sediment Gas Bulb took 2-3 minutes to fill, checked the bulb filter screen, looked OK, bench checked its flow, was extremely slow, cleaned it with solvent and air hose multiple times. The old petcock pencil screen was pretty clean. Bulb now fills in about 15 seconds. I checked the screen visually this spring and had wiped it off. Will clean with solvent from now on, and check fill rate on sediment bulb when checking the bulb screen.


Since the gas tank does not completely drain dry, he also sucked out the bottom of the tank, removed some fine grit and some water along with gas. He used a Dremel tool with flexible cable and small wire brush attachment, ran it around the bottom of the tank, and flushed the tank. Then ran a leaf blower through the fill opening to dry it out.


Long story, most likely all things that have been discussed here before, and common knowledge to experienced A people. Thought I would document for those like myself.


So would an additive like HEET in the spring be a good idea for water in the gas?


In the fall before storing I fill tank with gas with no ethanol, sold by a local gas station that sells only no ethanol gas. Add Stabil 360 to the gas and drive it a few minutes before storage. 2cnd tank of gas in the spring add some Seafoam.

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Also any rust or junk in the tank can damage the valve.


Bob

yup, been there

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Vic in E-TN

30 Closed Cab:
I recently wrote an article for my club newsletter (Smoky Mountain Model A Club - Rumble Seat Reviewer) and described my fix. Go to Fastenal and purchase a 5/16 in needle valve with compression fittings. Cut out a section out of the fuel line under the tank and put the valve in. It is part number 68779 and costs about $6 each. I have been using these for many years. They flow enough to keep you at the speed limit.


Vic

I am trying to keep my A as close to original looking as possible. Out of curiosity looked on your club website, looked for the news letter/meeting minutes, did not see it.


Wade