Ignition Wire for running lights and elect accessories

[PepeLoco]

'31 slant window, 12v negative ground.
I want to hook up running lights that come on anytime the ignition key is in the on position. The ignition has been replaced with a simple, easy to access, non-NOS part in the standard location.

So I hooked up the lights through a relay to the ignition in the dash. Turn on the key, lights come on, but car will not start-turns over but won't fire. Disconnect the relay wire going to the ignition key and car starts. I tested this with a test light hooked up a wire to the key ignition, the car still will not start. (even an LED light) Why?
Is it due to taking away juice to the coil? (Which is where I assume the ignition terminates) I also assume drop in amps or Volts, but haven't checked.
Or a possibility the coil is hooked up backwards? Haven't checked that either.

I actually want to run all electrical thru the ignition, as my kids keep killing my battery leaving stuff on (dome light, blinker, etc) while playing the garage.

What is best practice, other than keeping kids locked in their rooms all weekend?

Pepe Loco
Austin

[CarlG]

I would suggest that you get one of the ignition switches made by NuRex (available at most parts houses) that has an ACC post on it. Then you can use relay(s) to power all your other stuff. And then if you want the electrical on without ignition, just turn the key to the left. (pictures from Snyder's catalog)

[MAG]

You probably have the new ignition switch wire in the same position electrically as the original switch. That places the relay between the ignition switch and the distributor. That will not work. You must wire the coil and the relay in parallel. Run voltage from the ON side if the ignition to the input of the coil and to the relay.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sounds like you have the ignition switch connected from the coil to the points, as is the original way of wiring the switch. Since the switch connects the coil primary to the points, anything you add to the switch wiring is going to mess with the points operation and keep the coil from firing the spark plugs.

If you want to connect something to the ignition switch then you need to buy the screw in connector with an eyelet on the end and connect the distributor directly to the coil primary, and put the ignition switch in the power feed wire to the other coil primary.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by PepeLoco

... So I hooked up the lights through a relay to the ignition in the dash. Turn on the key, lights come on, but car will not start-turns over but won't fire. Disconnect the relay wire going to the ignition key and car starts. I tested this with a test light hooked up a wire to the key ignition, the car still will not start. (even an LED light) ...

Pepe Loco
Austin

Pepe,

I had the same bright idea several years ago, with the same result. The car refused to start until I disconnected the light. It never really made sense to me, since you could start the car if the lights were turned on by their regular switch, but couldn't argue with the fact.

As others suggest, a more modern ignition switch with an ACC position and a bunch of stout relays are probably what you need.

Steve

[MALAK]

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I agree with Tom. Relay coil is in parallel with points/condenser. Attached is a schematic of how you probably connected the relay and how it needs to be connected.

[PepeLoco]

Originally Posted by MALAK

I agree with Tom. Relay coil is in parallel with points/condenser. Attached is a schematic of how you probably connected the relay and how it needs to be connected.

Malak,
What is the first pic, factory install? I thought I wired it up per your third pic, keeping everything as is and even just adding the LED light directly to the ignition ON screw. I have not checked yet, but had heard that since the car was converted to 12 v neg ground, sometimes folks forget to reverse the wires from hi/low to low/hi since polarity was reversed. My goal is to have running lights that come one when the ignition is on. I will do more snooping around this weekend.
God bless our vets.
Pepe

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by PepeLoco

Malak,
What is the first pic, factory install? I thought I wired it up per your third pic, keeping everything as is and even just adding the LED light directly to the ignition ON screw. I have not checked yet, but had heard that since the car was converted to 12 v neg ground, sometimes folks forget to reverse the wires from hi/low to low/hi since polarity was reversed. My goal is to have running lights that come one when the ignition is on. I will do more snooping around this weekend.
God bless our vets.
Pepe

Pepe,
Sorry I didn't catch in your original post that it was converted to 12 Neg Ground. But from the description of your problem it sounds like the relay got wired on the points side of the coil. Any load (relay, light, LED,) on the points side of the coil will kill the ignition system regardless of system type (6V Pos Gnd or 12V Neg Gnd). I revised my drawings for simplicity. Notice the position of the ignition switches and where the relay gets wired to. The first dwg is original, the second dwg is 12 Neg Gnd (probably the way yours is), and the last dwg is how it needs to be.