The Ford Barn

Larry Jenkins · 04-14-2015, 07:29 PM

Just picked up a set of four original Model A shocks. Rusty.

Does anyone have a good way to get them open, and then a good way to restore them? What determines rebuildable or not?

Any one sell new innards?

TIA..

Larry Jenkins

Mitch//pa · 04-14-2015, 07:36 PM

either of these guys can rebuild them for you
give them a call
i know if there is slop / side play in the shaft they are junk

Robert Paul (719-478-5102) (Colorado)
John Holland (330-483-3896) (Ohio)

Mike V. Florida · 04-15-2015, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Just picked up a set of four original Model A shocks. Rusty.

Does anyone have a good way to get them open, and then a good way to restore them? What determines rebuildable or not?

Any one sell new innards?

TIA..

Larry Jenkins

If you mean seals then yes they are sold. If you mean metal parts, rotor, stator, covers, then no.

You can get this book,

Mike V. Florida · 04-15-2015, 02:32 PM

Here I have more.

http://www.goldcoastmodela.com/Shocks/shocks.htm

Larry Jenkins · 04-15-2015, 02:51 PM

Thank you, Mike.

Larry Jenkins

Brianfrench65 · 04-15-2015, 05:09 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I had 4 done by Robert Paul, in Yoder Colorado, perfect job. I was very happy with his service.

Redbird · 04-15-2015, 05:44 PM

Soak in EvapoRust. You can buy at most auto parts stores. I use it on a lot of things.

Kevin in NJ · 04-15-2015, 07:45 PM

In a fast nut shell.

Use a torch to burn the rubber between the lock ring and the cover.
Us light hammer to do lots of light hits on the cover and lock ring. The goal is to break the crap free and slightly expand the cover (You shrink to fit with heat later).
Use nice strap tool you make to get cover loose.
You now have to get the inner cover off. You will need a large deep impact socket.
If there is rust on the inner cover then heat the base some and quench a few times (it is unlikely the shock is good, but you never know).
Use 3/4" air impact to break the cover loose.
Use heat and quenching to get the valve out of the vane shaft. In a junk shock the valve could be important for another shock.

Evaluate shock.
Rust in the cavity, no good.
Loose and worn, no good.
A bit loose, a few thou wear, it may work with much thicker oil.
Tight, bingo, but may have enough wear that somewhat thicker oil is needed to get close to spec of rate of movement.

Obviously, there are a lot of details left out. Including the building of some tools to take off the cover and the locking ring.
I do not use penetrating fluid, it is a waste of time here.

Larry Jenkins · 04-25-2015, 07:58 PM

Brian..

Do you have Robert Paul's email address? How did you describe your shocks to him? Did he give you some information regarding the condition of your shocks before you sent them to him? How did he determine yes or no? Was the cost reasonable?

Sorry for all the questions. And thank you.. And all the others who responded.

Larry Jenkins

mizzougas · 04-25-2015, 08:27 PM

I had a set of four done by him and I thought the cost was very reasonable. $65 per shock. The problem is the majority of shocks you find are not rebuildable. I needed about 13 to find 4 good cores. As mentioned in previous posts loose shafts is a bad sign. Frozen shafts maybe depending on why they are frozen. He probably needs to see them to determine if they can be rebuilt.

mrtexas · 04-25-2015, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Just picked up a set of four original Model A shocks. Rusty.

Does anyone have a good way to get them open, and then a good way to restore them? What determines rebuildable or not?

Any one sell new innards?

TIA..

Larry Jenkins

Not one of the easier restorations you might try. John Holland charges a very reasonable amount even if you don't have cores. Not too long ago it was $55 or $85 with no core. They sell for more on ebay.

Ray P · 04-25-2015, 10:51 PM

I just got 4 rebuilt from Robert Paul. I sent 8 cores. 4 were bad. Turnaround time was almost 6 months. He only communicates by phone. Price was reasonable. $240. Freight extra. I believe Robert said he's 73 and is not spending as much time on this as he used to.

jrelliott · 04-26-2015, 10:33 AM

If you decide to mail them to someone to rebuild, go to the Post Office and get one of the flat rate boxes and ship them in that. If you try to ship otherwise will be expensive. A box of 4 shocks is around 12 to 16 lbs and with shipping rates today for any distance is costly. Sent 7 shocks to John Holland for just the flat rate. Cost years ago when I did this would have been over $26.00 for regular shipping. Tell them rattle is ok.

Brentwood Bob · 04-26-2015, 04:06 PM

When shipping cores protect the stems from being damaged. Best way I found was to isolate each core with cardboard. I managed to get 13 shocks in one priority box (54 pounds). My personal best. I used alot of shipping tape to hopefully keep the box intact during its trip.
I don't think the usps does special handling.
Bob

04-14-2015, 07:29 PM	#1
Larry Jenkins BANNED Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: East Central Iowa Posts: 1,275	Original shock restoration Just picked up a set of four original Model A shocks. Rusty. Does anyone have a good way to get them open, and then a good way to restore them? What determines rebuildable or not? Any one sell new innards? TIA.. Larry Jenkins

04-14-2015, 07:36 PM	#2
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Original shock restoration either of these guys can rebuild them for you give them a call i know if there is slop / side play in the shaft they are junk Robert Paul (719-478-5102) (Colorado) John Holland (330-483-3896) (Ohio)

04-15-2015, 02:51 PM	#5
Larry Jenkins BANNED Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: East Central Iowa Posts: 1,275	Re: Original shock restoration Thank you, Mike. Larry Jenkins

04-15-2015, 05:09 PM	#6
Brianfrench65 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Freetown, Massachusetts Posts: 511	Re: Original shock restoration Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I had 4 done by Robert Paul, in Yoder Colorado, perfect job. I was very happy with his service. __________________ Brian French; 1930 Briggs Town Sedan

04-15-2015, 05:44 PM	#7
Redbird Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Georgetown, TX Posts: 535	Re: Original shock restoration Soak in EvapoRust. You can buy at most auto parts stores. I use it on a lot of things.

04-15-2015, 07:45 PM	#8
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: Original shock restoration In a fast nut shell. Use a torch to burn the rubber between the lock ring and the cover. Us light hammer to do lots of light hits on the cover and lock ring. The goal is to break the crap free and slightly expand the cover (You shrink to fit with heat later). Use nice strap tool you make to get cover loose. You now have to get the inner cover off. You will need a large deep impact socket. If there is rust on the inner cover then heat the base some and quench a few times (it is unlikely the shock is good, but you never know). Use 3/4" air impact to break the cover loose. Use heat and quenching to get the valve out of the vane shaft. In a junk shock the valve could be important for another shock. Evaluate shock. Rust in the cavity, no good. Loose and worn, no good. A bit loose, a few thou wear, it may work with much thicker oil. Tight, bingo, but may have enough wear that somewhat thicker oil is needed to get close to spec of rate of movement. Obviously, there are a lot of details left out. Including the building of some tools to take off the cover and the locking ring. I do not use penetrating fluid, it is a waste of time here.

04-25-2015, 07:58 PM	#9
Larry Jenkins BANNED Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: East Central Iowa Posts: 1,275	Re: Original shock restoration Brian.. Do you have Robert Paul's email address? How did you describe your shocks to him? Did he give you some information regarding the condition of your shocks before you sent them to him? How did he determine yes or no? Was the cost reasonable? Sorry for all the questions. And thank you.. And all the others who responded. Larry Jenkins

04-25-2015, 08:27 PM	#10
mizzougas Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 45	Re: Original shock restoration I had a set of four done by him and I thought the cost was very reasonable. $65 per shock. The problem is the majority of shocks you find are not rebuildable. I needed about 13 to find 4 good cores. As mentioned in previous posts loose shafts is a bad sign. Frozen shafts maybe depending on why they are frozen. He probably needs to see them to determine if they can be rebuilt.

04-25-2015, 10:51 PM	#12
Ray P Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lexington Kentucky Posts: 38	Re: Original shock restoration I just got 4 rebuilt from Robert Paul. I sent 8 cores. 4 were bad. Turnaround time was almost 6 months. He only communicates by phone. Price was reasonable. $240. Freight extra. I believe Robert said he's 73 and is not spending as much time on this as he used to.

04-26-2015, 10:33 AM	#13
jrelliott Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pine, AZ Posts: 794	Re: Original shock restoration If you decide to mail them to someone to rebuild, go to the Post Office and get one of the flat rate boxes and ship them in that. If you try to ship otherwise will be expensive. A box of 4 shocks is around 12 to 16 lbs and with shipping rates today for any distance is costly. Sent 7 shocks to John Holland for just the flat rate. Cost years ago when I did this would have been over $26.00 for regular shipping. Tell them rattle is ok.

04-26-2015, 04:06 PM	#14
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,247	Re: Original shock restoration When shipping cores protect the stems from being damaged. Best way I found was to isolate each core with cardboard. I managed to get 13 shocks in one priority box (54 pounds). My personal best. I used alot of shipping tape to hopefully keep the box intact during its trip. I don't think the usps does special handling. Bob