Turning the steering wheel from + to X position

[Gold Digger]

What's the best way to reposition the steering wheel so I can see my speedometer. Do all steering wheels for 30 and 31's have a second keyway or do you have to make a nother one? Or is there another way?

[TerryO]

It should be splined , not keyed.


TOB

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by TerryO

It should be splined , not keyed.


TOB

I believe only '28 - early '29 were splined. Late '29 on were keyed.

[Oldbluoval]

TO…
Ones I have (several) 2-tooth are key way

[Joe K]

Ford added a second key-slot in the steering wheel hub to allow exactly what you're doing.

Not sure if repop wheels always have this.

A solution can be found in an "adjustable" drag link. IIRC, you use like the tie-rod but it is short and right-left threaded to get the same lengthen-shorten action. They do have a downside in that you might lose a small amount of total turn capacity on one side - but it's rare to use it all anyway.

Vendors sell the ends and it would not surprise me that the whole assembly is not available. Somewhere.

Joe K

[MrBruce]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

30/31 were keyed

[nkaminar]

As others have noted, the adjustable drag link is one way. If you have the wheel with the two key ways then use that method.

I use a GPS to provide an accurate speed. I mounted it where I can see it with a strong magnet that is glued to the GPS and I put a small piece of material between the magnet and the paint so as not to scratch the paint. My speedometer reads high by about 10%. The odometer is correct. I need to adjust the spring inside but it is low on my list.

[TerryO]

OOPS...my bad...


TOB

[Phil Brown]

I don't think that I would use an adjustable drag link to move the wheel that far because it will take the steering box off of its "center spot" and create a lot of slop in the steering. Trying to tighten up the slop will make a binding area where the center is.
The adjustable drag link is best suited to get your front wheels pointed straight ahead when the steering box is on center or equal turns of the steering wheel left and right

[Gold Digger]

Thinks everyone for the information. I hope my steering wheel has two key ways. Might just as well use a GPS and be more accurate.

[Flathead]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

I don't think that I would use an adjustable drag link to move the wheel that far because it will take the steering box off of its "center spot" and create a lot of slop in the steering. Trying to tighten up the slop will make a binding area where the center is.
The adjustable drag link is best suited to get your front wheels pointed straight ahead when the steering box is on center or equal turns of the steering wheel left and right

Yes Sir! X2

[nkaminar]

Taking the steering off of the center position is not a good idea. But isn't the center position adjustable for the 2 tooth boxes? I believe it is.

[rotorwrench]

Some of the keyed reproductions were made with two keyways that are 180 degrees apart. Don't ask me why because it makes no sense to me either. The OEM keyed wheels have one keyway 45 degrees away from the other. There is a Ford SB on these wheels.

[Joe K]

The only other way I could think to change this would be to change where the steering shaft "enters" the steering worm. As in totally pull your steering shaft, remove the worm, and re-insert about 45 degrees out from where you took it from.

A lot of work.

Of course for most there is no particular orientation of the steering shaft to the worm - the "center point" is determined during set-up of the box and assuring equal travel and free play from center.

So yes - it is VERY likely one could use an extended drag link and "compensate" for it in the setup of the box.

AND - this would remove any issue with equal wheel travel since the wheel travel is not changed - only the relative position of the steering box arm.

I expect a repop wheel with the correct two key ways would be easier to find and do.

My mind goes to certain Briggs & Stratton "offset key" flywheels - but I don't expect there is room enough for that dodge.

Joe K

[BillCNC]

My wheel has two keyed slots 90° from each other. I have driven the car in the X position and the + position. I prefer the X as it seems safer in an accident and it's more comfortable to hold the wheel with my left hand while my elbow rest on the door.

Regards
Bill

[Big hammer]

90 * ? That would be the same position, 45* would make the change .

BTW the worm gear and shaft have a key to keep the worm gear from turning on the shaft.

Easy Peezy just remove the steering wheel and install in the other slot, next will be how to remove the wheel. Follow Bill Williamson method for removing the steering wheel

[JayJay]

Of the two '30/'31 steering wheels on my cars, one of them (from my '31 slant, may or may not be original) has key slots 45 degrees from each other (i.e., both + and x positions) while the other (which I highly suspect is early '30 factory original) has a key slot only in the x position. Which is fine, as I prefer the x position, and that's the way both are installed.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

BTW the worm gear and shaft have a key to keep the worm gear from turning on the shaft.
l

On the two-tooth worms I have removed, the interior of the worm is "splined" with short spline-like protuberances. The fit of the worm to the steering shaft is "interference" (and not "indexed.") - which on re-installation most rebuilders advise to back up with Lock-tite not red.

Removal of the worm is easy - get a piece of 1" black iron pipe longer than the steering shaft, place the shaft within the pipe with the worm "up", and then "rap" the pipe/shaft sharply against concrete until the shaft is removed by momentum.

Re-installation CAN be a little trickier. I have "bucked up" the steering shaft and used a press ("buckling" of the steering shaft can occur if unreinforced in the pressing) or (better) tap the worm end of the shaft and then use allthread/nut/washer to "pull" the worm into position.

Check the worm/bearing races for "concentricity" relative to the shaft lest you create a "bind." (i.e. worm at angle to the shaft.) The installation is "material displacing" after the manner of interference fits.


Joe K