Change 8BA head bolts to Studs

[AnthonyG]

Are there any issues in removing head bolts 1 at a time & replacing with studs. I like the look of chrome acorn nuts instead of bolt heads?
Was planning on:
1- removing stud
2- putting sealer on new stud thread
3- installing stud
4- pretorque to 10 or 15 ft lbs less than final
5- same procedure one at a time for all.
7- perform final torque on all following sequence procedure

Am I missing anything or any suggestions?

[fordv8j]

Can you not just put the chrome covers on the head nuts? would look the same...lots less work...and no leaks

[flatjack9]

Yes.

[AnthonyG]

Do the bolt chrome covers stay secure with vibration and heat changes?

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Are there any issues in removing head bolts 1 at a time & replacing with studs. I like the look of chrome acorn nuts instead of bolt heads?
Was planning on:
1- removing stud
2- putting sealer on new stud thread
3- installing stud
4- pretorque to 10 or 15 ft lbs less than final
5- same procedure one at a time for all.
7- perform final torque on all following sequence procedure

Am I missing anything or any suggestions?

Hi Anthony, we have hundreds here (Chrome) and they fit the Flathead bolt heads nicely.

When installing them you may want to use a bit of "The Right Stuff" as some insurance they don't "pop" off!

(Add) Just a "tip" if the bolts have any heavy paint on them you may need to get some of it off? The ones we have here are a very tight fit on the OEM bolts.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Most of the stud kits we stock from ARP also have 5/8" hex nuts anyway! Don't know about other brand fasteners but ARP's nuts are 5/8" in their 7/16" kits.

[19Fordy]

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Anthony:
Don't do it.
You are about to open a can of worms that you don't want to open.
More difficult to remove heads with studs, potential leaks. Just buy the correct size acorn nuts and use a dab of silicone to hold them on. These have been on since 1999. Also, if you have an 8BA consider relocating your coil with this:
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...racket+support

[chap52]

Had them for 10 years, only had one come loose. When you install them take a pair of channel lock pliers, wrap the acorn cover with a rag, and gently squeeze the cover closed. Check along the way until you get a snug fit. As stated, easier, cheaper and works fine.

[flatheadmurre]

Hightemp silicon if they don´t fit tight from start.

[RKS.PA]

Originally Posted by chap52

Had them for 10 years, only had one come loose. When you install them take a pair of channel lock pliers, wrap the acorn cover with a rag, and gently squeeze the cover closed. Check along the way until you get a snug fit. As stated, easier, cheaper and works fine.

Agree with Chap. Got my bolts from MCF. Once all was torqued and no leaks, put on the chrome caps with a little crimp under a rag. Had to pry them off!!

Dick.

[AnthonyG]

Got the message. Will do the covers. Should've reminded myself of advice I give all the time" if it ant broke don't fix it"

[AnthonyG]

Pretty engine 19Fordy

[corvette8n]

Same here I used a dab of silicon sealer inside of each cover, so far they stayed on.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Have never used silicon sealer but have used aluminum foil with good results. Make a small pad of aluminum foil, place it beside a flat on the bolt head and drive nut cover on with a rubber mallet. Works good, simple and cheap. Good luck.

[Pete F]

What's the alternative to buying $500 ARP head stud
People say that Speedways are no good
Any suggestions

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Pete F

What's the alternative to buying $500 ARP head stud
People say that Speedways are no good
Any suggestions

Hi Pete, the ARP stud kits for the 8BA runs about $350.00/$360.00, it was about $325.00 last year but ARP had a small increase recently on many of their fasteners.

We also have them available with some nicer looking 12 pt. nuts, slightly more money but look great! Can post a picture up here later if you'd like to see these?

We "build" the kits here ourselves, all ARP pieces, keeps the cost a bit lower than their catalog numbered pieces. We don't supply the nut covers though, I do keep the chrome ones on the shelf, but they're not included in our kits, they would slightly add'l. These won't work with the 12 pt nuts, only with the 6 pt ones.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. There are a couple different kits depending on what heads you're using, aluminum or cast iron?

[Bored&Stroked]

The ARP set that I like the best ( and of course it is the most expensive ) - is the one with hardened stainless steel acorn nuts and washers. The kit is expensive (cheapest I've found was at CNC motorsports), but it is really nice. It has all the studs, plus the 11/16 stainless acorn nuts (not covers). I used these on my 42 Merc motor in my 32 - really look nice and hold the torque as expected. I wanted ARP studs, but did NOT want to see the ends of the studs sticking out - also, that black oxide finish will rush in short order.

Here is an example:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ARP-15...ads,88074.html

[tubman]

I used to wonder how people could get 8-10K invested in a flathead build. After looking at that ad, I think I know now.

[Russ/40]

5 big ones for the hardware!!?? I didn't think gold was strong enough for that task. Geesh!

[GOSFAST]

There's a couple options with holding the heads on, various fasteners.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a few shots I had put somewhere before, the "Block-Oxide" fasteners will hold up with some maintenance, the Chevy guys use them all the time.

[Bored&Stroked]

I have no problems using any ARP fasteners - but if you have the black-oxide coating subject to any moisture, they will most certainly rust over time . . . unless you keep them 'oiled'. Just park a car for a couple winters and see what your fasteners look like in about 2 years. Once the rust starts - it doesn't tend to stop.

Me - I don't really want oil on my aluminum heads - so that is out. If you're in any salty air environment (like around the coastal areas), they'll rust all the sooner. I can't stand rusty hardware on a nice looking engine . . . so another approach worth considering is to ceramic coat the fasteners (but that is a big pain in the butt as well - and I've done that). Paint? - well, I've tried that . . . spent many hours with a little brush . . . works pretty well, until you decide to check the torque.

I definitely do NOT like the price, but Hell, I just bought an ARP head stud kit for a SBF 331 road-race engine - 20 studs total, with hat washers and 12 point nuts . . . $150 (cheapest I could find). That wouldn't even cover ONE head on a flathead - just a comparison.

I tend to build engines that are a long way from stock, so I tend to buy the highest quality fasteners I can get . . . just helps keeping head gaskets on things. Yes, it is expensive - no question . . .