29 Sport Coup won't fire

[Tom Wesenberg]

Remember, the distributor needs a good ground, so if there's any doubt just clip a wire from the condenser ground strap to a good engine ground, like a head nut.

I hope you don't have a wireless plate in the distributor, because they have caused problems.

The ignition primary circuit it easy to troubleshoot. Use an analog voltmeter, or test light. With the key on and points open you want 6 volts at both coil posts, both ignition switch terminals, and the open points contact. With the points closed and key on you want 0 volts at all the places I just listed, except for one coil primary terminal. With the points closed, if you still measure voltage at the points, then the points need to be cleaned or the distributor isn't well grounded.

[DougT]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Actually the metal case on the coil has no connection to any wire or terminals, so the coil does not need to be grounded.
The high tension wire and 2 primary terminals gives you the completed circuit needed for spark to the plugs.

What completes the circuit for the secondary side of the coil if there is no connection through the case?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by DougT

What completes the circuit for the secondary side of the coil if there is no connection through the case?

The other end of the coil secondary is connected to one of the primary terminals, so the spark circuit is completed through the primary wiring.

[ericr]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The other end of the coil secondary is connected to one of the primary terminals, so the spark circuit is completed through the primary wiring.

translation please LOL.

more seriously, this whole scenario appears on the Barn frequently. I think one problem is that there is no easy way for an amateur to test the coil and the condenser standing alone, detached from the car or otherwise disabled.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by ericr

translation please LOL.

more seriously, this whole scenario appears on the Barn frequently. I think one problem is that there is no easy way for an amateur to test the coil and the condenser standing alone, detached from the car or otherwise disabled.

It's pretty easy to test. Just connect a good condenser across the two primary terminals and hold the coil wire 1/4" from either terminal. Connect a battery to one terminal and touch the other battery wire to the other terminal, off-on, off-on, etc. Each time the battery is disconnected you should see a good blue spark.

[ericr]

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Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

It's pretty easy to test. Just connect a good condenser across the two primary terminals and hold the coil wire 1/4" from either terminal. Connect a battery to one terminal and touch the other battery wire to the other terminal, off-on, off-on, etc. Each time the battery is disconnected you should see a good blue spark.

yikes, sounds like a lot of work to me....I assume this is a test for the coil and not the condenser. how does one know if the test condenser itself is good?

[Bill in Al]

I just went through a case like this and the ignition cable was not screwed far enough into the distributor. Good luck.

[ModelAMike1930]

I had a similar problem with my pickup. It turned out the spade clip that connects the coil to the distributor was loose (the crimping on the wire) I cut it off and replaced the spade clip and it fired right up.. I found it using the same test light I use to time it..

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by ericr

yikes, sounds like a lot of work to me....I assume this is a test for the coil and not the condenser. how does one know if the test condenser itself is good?

If you get a good spark then you know they are both good. Substitue either part to test other parts.