5 Speed Conversion

[petew]

I am just finishing up installing a T5 5 speed in my 30 Coupe using a kit from modela5speed.com which was formerly called Valley Machine.

I had originally wanted a mitchell overdrive and one of their transmissions but didn't want to wait until december or past that to get it .
Plus in speaking with the owner at Mitchell ( great guy ) he is having to outsource a lot of work because he is short on staff and as a result the prices will go up. I would imagine the total will be at or above $6,000 for the Mitchell package all in by the time I could get one . that's components , core charges and shipping but no tax.

The kit I purchased cost me less than $3k shipped and the transmission can be found for very reasonable money used or you can buy a fresh unit from a rebuilder which is what I did.

The kit was fun to install but more involved than the Mitchell and of course makes the car a little less original but should make the car easier to drive in modern traffic and my wife will now be able to drive it.

This is what worked for me and may not be everyones idea of a good modification but it is a viable option.

I have a bunch of pictures of the installation if anyone is interested in seeing them.

Pete

[Jim Brierley]

You've made a good choice! T-5's have a variety of ratios available, too late to choose. If it is now open-drive, I hope the rear end is well anchored.

[petew]

I believe it will stay put . Also I welded the seams on the radius arms

[Phil Brown]

Is that locating bar above the driveshaft part fo there kit or something that you came up with ?
Looks nice

[nkaminar]

Pete, Very nice work. Your work has always impressed me when I visited your shop.

[johnneilson]

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Pete, it looks great!

I had purchased a car years ago and the top link ripped out during a 1/4 mile run.
It was not constructed nearly as well as yours, nice job.

I would suggest looking at the fork extension on the radius arms too, maybe adding in some shear web will help.

John

[petew]

Thanks for the kind words and interest.
Here are a few more pictures.

[petew]

Everything you see is part of the kit with the exception of the 1/8" steel plate
I made to tie the crossmember back together after I had to cut it for transmission clearance.
Eddie Pruett the man that makes the kit does a nice job.

[Gene F]

Pete, If I were unable to find a Borg-Warner, I'd likely go the route you did. That looks super good. Was it bolt-in, or did you have to modify anything?

The steel plate you made...why did you need that?

So Mitchell is outsourcing work....bad idea. At least that is my experience. If you know what I mean.

[petew]

It is necessary to notch the crossmember to fit this tranny and I hate to do anything like that.
The plate gives a finished look and helps tie the crossmember back together somewhat.
I would also point out that two additional crossmembers are added to the chassis with this kit .
One holds the third link that runs forward from the rear end and the other holds the transmission mount .
The cap I made is probably not necessary but it makes me feel good !

[JimG1127]

That is one clean car! Beautiful job! When I bought my A it already had the T5 installed. It shifts like butter! The only issue I have right now is the speedo doesn't work. I took the speedo out and tested it and it is good. So the cable which runs a very convoluted path to the differential is likely the problem. When I get a chance I'll do a little more digging.

[Gene F]

Good info, thanks.

How long to put it in?

[Gene F]

Jim, some things just make an A more practical. Heavy duty radiator, cast iron drums, and an overdrive/modern transmission. Once you get your A to a point like this you want to drive it all the time. Errands, church, post office, you just enjoy it so much more.

[petew]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Pete, If I were unable to find a Borg-Warner, I'd likely go the route you did. That looks super good. Was it bolt-in, or did you have to modify anything?

The steel plate you made...why did you need that?

So Mitchell is outsourcing work....bad idea. At least that is my experience. If you know what I mean.

As it turns out I have a couple of Borg Warner electric overdrive units on spare transmissions that I have for my 51 Ford. Having driven a friends model A which has a 5 speed I think the 5 speed really makes the most of that 40 horsepower .
The 5 speed is a bolt in job with the only mods to the car being the crossmember , floorboards because the shifter and ebrake move closer to the seat and you have to shorten the ebrake rod.
The T5 requires some mods but they are easy and minor.

[Gene F]

Did they sell you a beefed up front wishbone?

A modern transmission with synchronzers means you can keep the engine int he power range, without keeping the revs up where it chews up the babbit. Really saves on the car...

[Gene F]

Under $3,000...gosh I spent over $5,000 on my engine. And it is not even a Burtz.

[JimG1127]

I agree with you Gene. Tomorrow I'm putting in a new Brassworks heavy duty radiator. A leak less water pump. An aluminum fan to replace my original. After that turn signals. My 7 tooth steering box has a lot of slop so I'm thinking about a Mel Gross steering column.

[petew]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Good info, thanks.

How long to put it in?

Kit arrived about two weeks ago and I will probably drive the car tomorrow after I finish installing the floorboards and the cut to fit floor mat that I got from Snyders.
It got the cast iron drums and Flathead Ted floaters also but that work was completed while I waited for the kit.

Took about 3 weeks to get the kit once ordered , one week of that was shipping.

[petew]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Did they sell you a beefed up front wishbone?

A modern transmission with synchronzers means you can keep the engine int he power range, without keeping the revs up where it chews up the babbit. Really saves on the car...

Wishbone is original

[Gene F]

Pete, one of the guys in our club put in a S-10 trans, and he was on tour and stepped on it, and he heard his snap. He told me he likes his, but you gotta have that front wishbone re-enforced.

Maybe I'm just being "over kill", but I sure hate calling for a tow truck.

[Phil Brown]

Very nice clean kit and installation. The first thing you'll notice is how quiet the car becomes without straight cut gears in the trans.

[redmodelt]

Friend of mine did the conversion, really nice to drive in city traffic!

[petew]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Pete, one of the guys in our club put in a S-10 trans, and he was on tour and stepped on it, and he heard his snap. He told me he likes his, but you gotta have that front wishbone re-enforced.

Maybe I'm just being "over kill", but I sure hate calling for a tow truck.

I'll ask the gentleman that made the kit .
Sounds like he may have had a bind of some sort that caused him an issue .
I know of a half dozen of these conversions personally and have never heard of any problem with the front wishbone .

[Gene F]

Let us know what he says, please.

[AL in NY]

Nice looking install, but I still prefer the F150 4-speed because there are no modifications to the car chassis itself, you just need to shorten the driveshaft, torque tube and radius rods.

[Pete]

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Originally Posted by petew

I'll ask the gentleman that made the kit .
Sounds like he may have had a bind of some sort that caused him an issue .
I know of a half dozen of these conversions personally and have never heard of any problem with the front wishbone .

What you have will probably last forever with a stock engine.
Up the hp and you will be redesigning everything.

You will be amazed at how much wishbone is required for even 100 hp.

[gary678*]

I've had a T-5 for 7 years; great transmission with never a problem. Based on the transmission's code it is a world class transmission from a Camaro, Firebird, or Blazer. Recently a fellow club member rode with me and remarked that at 50 MPH in 5th gear the engine sounded like it was idling. Several very accurate gas mileage checks showed the MPG's were consistently in the 21-22 MPG range. An additional benefit when compared to the Mitchell is that there is only one gear shift. This is not a knock on the Mitchell as I know some people with the Mitchell and they are very happy with the performance.

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by Pete

What you have will probably last forever with a stock engine.
Up the hp and you will be redesigning everything.

You will be amazed at how much wishbone is required for even 100 hp.

I can attest to that, running about 125 hp for the moment.

After breaking a radius arm, bending the other and ripping out the top link, I replaced the rearend with a '35 QC.

Reinforced radius rods from '36 and tied to the trans.

John

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by gary678*

An additional benefit when compared to the Mitchell is that there is only one gear shift.

Haha, that is one of the reasons I enjoy the Mitchell. Having "3" gear shift levers is a great conversation starter...

[jack backer]

Bunch of hotrodders, the lot of ya.. sure, it starts out slowly, you rationalize it by saying you’ll drive it more.. then you find yourself spending and doing more and more,chasing that dragon..

[petew]

Got the floorboards modified and then cut the Snyders floor mat to fit.
New engine pans go in tomorrow and then perhaps a ride…

[Gene F]

Looks nice n tidy

[MickyD]

I talked to Steve Mitchell last week. He is out sourcing some of the work but his prices are still about the same. Possibly may go up a hundred. He had 1 person retire 2 weeks ago. That gentleman is in his 70's. Steve is hoping to get him back for 1 or 2 days a week. I received my Mitchell overdrive in May of this year and it cost me a little over $3000. Granted they were less in the past 2 years, but the economy has not been kind to anyone.

[imtb]

I wanted to see if you had any follow up on how the transmission and kit worked out. I am considering this kit and wanted to see if any issues you had. Seems like it is puts together pretty well. Did you use the Model A bell housing?

Thanks,

[imtb]

I was also wanted to ask about the floating brakes setup.

[petew]

Originally Posted by imtb

I wanted to see if you had any follow up on how the transmission and kit worked out. I am considering this kit and wanted to see if any issues you had. Seems like it is puts together pretty well. Did you use the Model A bell housing?

Thanks,

It is spectacular absolutely nothing bad to report , I love driving the car .
I really wanted the Mitchell overdrive but in retrospect I think this is better.
The gearing in the 5 speed matches very well with the 3.78 rear gear .
4 speeds around town and I can run 60 mph in 5th at about 2000 rpm .
Also the car is very smooth shifting and driving, no driveline vibration.
Yes I used the version of the kit that uses the original model A bellhousing.

The brakes are great as well .I did two major mods at once , the cast iron drums and the front and rear floaters so between the two mods it stops like a car with hydraulic brakes . The difference from what it was to what I have now is remarkable.
Only issue with the brakes is if you apply the brakes hard while backing I sometimes get a big clunk from one of the rear wheels but going forward no issues.

Pete

[petew]

Also I adapted a 66 mustang shift knob with the 5 speed pattern to the handle in case someone else should need to move or drive the car .
It’s a Scott Drake reproduction part .

[denis4x4]

I installed my T-5 at least 15 years ago. Ran a 1/4" X 1" flat metal bar the length of the wishbone seam. Made the cross member reinforcement plate prior to actually cutting it. Engine is a B with a CRAGAR, headers, FS ignition and a Weber 32/36 carb. Yet to have an issue with the front wishbones. 70HP at the rear wheels on the dyno in Lincoln.

[imtb]

Pete,

Thanks for the follow up. I was thinking about the mitchel and talked with Steve yesterday, and it would be 9 months for the over drive and then would still need to deal with the non sycro trans or buy a new syncro. trans. from mitchel. After reading your post and pics, and researching other info. I placed with order with Eddie and Model A 5 speed Conversion. His kit seems the most complete and your review pretty straight forward.
Thanks for all the pics and info.

[petew]

Originally Posted by imtb

Pete,

Thanks for the follow up. I was thinking about the mitchel and talked with Steve yesterday, and it would be 9 months for the over drive and then would still need to deal with the non sycro trans or buy a new syncro. trans. from mitchel. After reading your post and pics, and researching other info. I placed with order with Eddie and Model A 5 speed Conversion. His kit seems the most complete and your review pretty straight forward.
Thanks for all the pics and info.

You won't be sorry and if there are any further questions that I can answer I would be happy to help.

Pete

[jeepguy1948]

One definite advantage of the 5 speed is a synchro 1st gear. The Mitchel trans only has a 2-3 synchro because there is not enough room in the case. I had one and although that 2-3 synchro is fantastic I really wanted to be (and more importantly my wife) able to shift into 1st without coming to a complete stop.

[wuga]

I have a T5 installed in my 1931 RPU behind the original engine. I went a slightly different route but with about the same results. I used a T5 out of a mid 80s Jeep without the transfer case. This gives you the shortest possible T5 available. I did not want to cut my cross member so I moved it back 2.625". I used a bellhousing from Vintage Precision and an adaptor from Jeep to closed drive shaft from Kato King. This all combined to make the shortest possible setup. All in, including the bell housing, the clutch assembly, the Burtz flywheel, the Kato King adaptor and shifter, the Mitchell pinion puller and the Jeep T5 I spent about $2500.00, there will be other costs no matter which way you go. A full description of the procedure along with pictures can be found here on the HAMB
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14769385

Go to entry 36.

I love the T5, Installed one in my 1962 Cutlass behind the 215 V8, installed one in my 1962 Studebaker wagon behind the 259 V8, installed one in my 0930 Tudor behind a 300 Buick and now have one in my 1931 RPU.

Warren

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Pete, one of the guys in our club put in a S-10 trans, and he was on tour and stepped on it, and he heard his snap. He told me he likes his, but you gotta have that front wishbone re-enforced.

Maybe I'm just being "over kill", but I sure hate calling for a tow truck.

I'm confused: How does installing an S10 trans affect the front wishbone? Any stress on the front axle/wishbone could only come during heavy braking (unless you hit a big pothole or bounce off a curb!).

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

I'm confused: How does installing an S10 trans affect the front wishbone? Any stress on the front axle/wishbone could only come during heavy braking (unless you hit a big pothole or bounce off a curb!).

I would like an explanation as well. The only thing I can think of is frame flex?

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

I'm confused: How does installing an S10 trans affect the front wishbone? Any stress on the front axle/wishbone could only come during heavy braking (unless you hit a big pothole or bounce off a curb!).

I think they meant rear radius rods,.
Most S10 conversions are open drive and the original rear radius rods are insufficient.
Some of the early "kits" had an upper 3rd link that was again insufficient, don't ask how I know.
At one time a torktube kit was available and it was very good.

John

[Gene F]

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Originally Posted by wuga

I have a T5 installed in my 1931 RPU behind the original engine. I went a slightly different route but with about the same results. I used a T5 out of a mid 80s Jeep without the transfer case. This gives you the shortest possible T5 available. I did not want to cut my cross member so I moved it back 2.625". I used a bellhousing from Vintage Precision and an adaptor from Jeep to closed drive shaft from Kato King. This all combined to make the shortest possible setup. All in, including the bell housing, the clutch assembly, the Burtz flywheel, the Kato King adaptor and shifter, the Mitchell pinion puller and the Jeep T5 I spent about $2500.00, there will be other costs no matter which way you go. A full description of the procedure along with pictures can be found here on the HAMB
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14769385

Go to entry 36.

I love the T5, Installed one in my 1962 Cutlass behind the 215 V8, installed one in my 1962 Studebaker wagon behind the 259 V8, installed one in my 0930 Tudor behind a 300 Buick and now have one in my 1931 RPU.

Warren

Warren, so in your scenario you had to source parts from different suppliers, and it was not a kit? The getting everything I need except that one plate is very desirable to me when I make major changes to a collector car...

[imtb]

I received my kit. I am waiting on my bell housing and will probably start next week. I am going to tackle rear end first. I have a new leaf spring and want to replace that when I pull the rear end.
I bought extra snout and bearing holder. Doing as much prep work as I can. Transmission mount bolted up.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by imtb

I received my kit. I am waiting on my bell housing and will probably start next week. I am going to tackle rear end first. I have a new leaf spring and want to replace that when I pull the rear end.
I bought extra snout and bearing holder. Doing as much prep work as I can. Transmission mount bolted up.

Please let us know your progress along the way, and the end result (happiness too). If I were to buy another A I strongly would go this route

[Pete]

Here is a conversion for a model A/B block to a T5 transmission that doesn't cost anywhere near what most of them on the market do, BUT, you must be willing to do some fabrication with shop HAND power tools.
This is reprinted from an old thread.

Here is an adapter to get a T5 transmission to an A/B block that can be made with NO machine tools. (lathe, mill)
All you need is a sawzall, a 3/8 drill motor and some rotary files.
All you need is a magnet base indicator to align it with the engine.
This uses a stock Chev V8 aluminum bell housing or Lakewood scatter shield, a
hydraulic clutch slave cylinder, stock Chev clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch arm and a 12 lb CHEV aluminum flywheel.
The T5 bolts right on. You can either use a Crazydaddyo adapter to torque tube or run an open driveline with beefed up center mounted radius rods.
The steel bracket on the 2 inch plate mounts a Chev gear drive starter on the right side.

No, I don't have any more info about it other than what is here but I know of 2 guys that made them from nothing more than the shown pic.

[petew]

Originally Posted by imtb

I received my kit. I am waiting on my bell housing and will probably start next week. I am going to tackle rear end first. I have a new leaf spring and want to replace that when I pull the rear end.
I bought extra snout and bearing holder. Doing as much prep work as I can. Transmission mount bolted up.

A couple of things that helped me out during the install process.

1. Check your slip yoke and make sure there isn't a small vent hole at the back
just ahead of where the ujoint mounts. It's not needed and if left open the
slip yoke will leak when the car is parked facing uphill .
2. When installing the transmission take the input shaft adapter off of the 5
speed and slip it into the clutch disc then slide the trans into place . This will
give you an additional couple inches so you can get the transmission into
place.
3. Take two 3 or 4 inch long bolts of the size that hold the transmission to the
bellhousing (3/8" I believe) cut the heads off of them and grind the cut ends
round , screw them into the bellhousing and use them as guide pins to slide
the transmission into place. Just make sure the clutch fork is in the proper
location when installing the transmission.

Other than those things the install is pretty straight forward and I was able to complete the install by myself.

Pete

[31a]

Good information I have 2 mitchells and 2 with high speed rear ends like both I live in flat country

[imtb]

Making some progress. Pulled rear end and fought pinion but followed the directions and got it out and adapter for the open drive line is installed. Drilled and tapped for the vent, also welded radius rods. I need to clean and paint, then install new spring and put the rear end back in.

[petew]

Coming along nicely....

[katy]

also welded radius rods

What exactly did you do to the radius rods?

[denis4x4]

Originally Posted by katy

What exactly did you do to the radius rods?

Used 1/4” x 1” steel and welded in on the radius arms. Punched holes for looks!

[petew]

Originally Posted by katy

What exactly did you do to the radius rods?

There is an un welded seam that runs along the bottom of each radius rod .
By welding that seam you provide some additional strength to the rod.

[AL in NY]

Those radius rods aren't strong enough to handle the clockwise and counterclockwise torque of the rear axle even after the seams have been welded. They will handle normal acceleration and braking, but in an emergency panic stop, DRIVER BE WARE.

[denis4x4]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Those radius rods aren't strong enough to handle the clockwise and counterclockwise torque of the rear axle even after the seams have been welded. They will handle normal acceleration and braking, but in an emergency panic stop, DRIVER BE WARE.

Been 15 years and a few panic stops as well as tours in three states and no issues. Too, the engine put out 70 HP at the rear wheels. Note that the metal straps are welded on both sides of the radius rod seams. I’m well aware of what it takes to make an A go fast and stop quickly.

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Those radius rods aren't strong enough to handle the clockwise and counterclockwise torque of the rear axle even after the seams have been welded. They will handle normal acceleration and braking, but in an emergency panic stop, DRIVER BE WARE.

Yes agree the A radius rods alone are insufficient
By adding the web to top bottom or both helps but in addition you must reinforce the fork section

At one time one of the kit mfgrs offered replacement radius rods that were much stronger

I run a full fender coupe with a OHV setup and have broken the stock radius rods
The spring kept it all from coming apart but it only takes one experience to learn

J

[California Travieso]

Can you also modify, e.g., shorten, the torque tube so you don’t have to have an open drive shaft? I recall one of the kits included a shortened torque tube.

David Serrano

[Pete]

Originally Posted by California Travieso

Can you also modify, e.g., shorten, the torque tube so you don’t have to have an open drive shaft? I recall one of the kits included a shortened torque tube.

David Serrano

Yes, that is a good way to go. No flimsy radius rods to worry about.

This is one of the conversions.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...T5+TORQUE+TUBE

Another method uses a shortened torque tube/DL with a STOCK T5 or Tremec transmission. It has been posted on this forum a few moons ago also.

[1stWoody]

Transmission Exchange in Monticello KY offers heavy duty radius rods for their kit.
$379 I believe.

[imtb]

Adapter and bell housing installed. Pretty straight forward
Notch cut used sawzall. Needs more clearance on passenger side for parking brake.
Transmission in. Guide pins made it easy one man job two floor jacks.
Now bolting everything backup.
Pete would you have pic of brake light switch?

[Pete]

...

[petew]

Originally Posted by imtb

Adapter and bell housing installed. Pretty straight forward
Notch cut used sawzall. Needs more clearance on passenger side for parking brake.
Transmission in. Guide pins made it easy one man job two floor jacks.
Now bolting everything backup.
Pete would you have pic of brake light switch?

I'll get you a picture today

[imtb]

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PeteW, thanks for getting pic. of brake light switch, if you have one of parking brake that would be helpful also.
I also wanted to add your tip of putting the adapter in the clutch really helped, the adapter is a really tight fit and would have been tight getting it right in there. Putting T5 into the adapter went right in.

[wuga]

Go to post 42 and follow the link. There is a drawing of the bracket necessary to mount the e-brake. If you didn't move the cross member, the original brake light switch should work. For the parking brake, you will have to move the shaft support over towards the passenger side and also move the actuator arm on the e-brake shaft
Warren

[petew]

Some pictures.
The brake switch that was already in the car worked fine , no modifications.
The handbrake is easy , requires some dexterity to get it all together and then the rod needs to be shortened.
I took a measurement, cut the rod , threaded the ends and then used a coupling nut to put it back together. That gave me a little adjustment.
You could weld it if you like that better.

[petew]

Another pic showing where the handbrake bracket that is provided in the kit bolts to the transmission bolt .

[imtb]

petew, thanks for the pics, that helps. I have a different style parking brake that mounts to the top of transmission. I need to locate one that mounts on side. Synder's is out of them and so I put a WTB add out. My car is a 29 and the brake light switch mounts up different. I need to for pics of the 30-31 style. Everything is going back together, and I ordered my driveshaft today, I should have by the end of the week. Hoping to test drive this weekend.

[petew]

My pleasure , You will love it when it's done.

[imtb]

Making more progress.
Radius rods attached. Brake cross shaft in., pedals back in.
Bunch of Cotter pins to put back in, put oil in tranny, cut floor, mount shifter, brake light switch, make cover for old transmission hole, etc….
Everything is super solid.

[41blueoval]

Are the rear radius rods bolted solid to that new transmission bracket? If so how can the rear end articulate?

[AL in NY]

I've been watching these conversions develop, and it seems like a lot of extra parts and fabrication (cutting the crossmember, beefing up radius rods and fabricating a connection point, making a new brake cross shaft, adding a universal to the banjo, buying special bell housing for T5) just to have one more forward gear then the F150 4 speed with OD. Plus, when you look at the driveline, doesn't even look like a Model A anymore.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

I've been watching these conversions develop, and it seems like a lot of extra parts and fabrication (cutting the crossmember, beefing up radius rods and fabricating a connection point, making a new brake cross shaft, adding a universal to the banjo, buying special bell housing for T5) just to have one more forward gear then the F150 4 speed with OD. Plus, when you look at the driveline, doesn't even look like a Model A anymore.

Agreed, there is a lot of work there to get things fitting.

[wuga]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

I've been watching these conversions develop, and it seems like a lot of extra parts and fabrication (cutting the crossmember, beefing up radius rods and fabricating a connection point, making a new brake cross shaft, adding a universal to the banjo, buying special bell housing for T5) just to have one more forward gear then the F150 4 speed with OD. Plus, when you look at the driveline, doesn't even look like a Model A anymore.

Actually, I did not cut my cross member, I did not beef up my radius rods, I did not have to make any new brake cross shafts ( I still run mechanical brakes), I did not have to fab a connection point, I am running a closed drive shaft, you get two extra forward gears, one that allows you to cruise at a reasonable speed and you get full synchronization. Driving my Model A is a pleasure. I could go on and on.
Warren

[AL in NY]

wuga, that's great. You have a very unusual installation. Post some photos. I did my own F150 install in 2007 and recently installed a set of the preferred "Goldilocks gears....................Love this setup!!!!!!!!!!

[wuga]

I posted this earlier but I will again.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14769385

Warren

[Bruce of MN]

That link didn’t work for me.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

wuga, that's great. You have a very unusual installation. Post some photos. I did my own F150 install in 2007 and recently installed a set of the preferred "Goldilocks gears....................Love this setup!!!!!!!!!!

X2

Originally Posted by wuga

I posted this earlier but I will again.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14769385

Warren

The link doesn't work, but interested in what you did

[imtb]

It was worth the work, I got to test drive this evening and couldn’t get enough. I love the sound of straight cut gears but this is so smooth and sporty and no grinding to down shift.
Still a few loose ends finish up parking brake, I got the brake light switched figured out.
Really pleased with it and since I have owned Model A’s no one has ever crawled under car and commented on drive train.
The other plus, I am not leaving a puddle of gear oil from a leaking transmission.
I would recommend The Model A 5 speed conversion kit it very complete and good customer service.
Now onto a new steering box.

[wuga]

Sorry about that, the link is now working.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14769385

Warren

[Phil Brown]

The first thing that I noticed when I installed the F-150 trans was how quiet the gearset runs, straight cut gears make a lot of noise
Interesting, in the link they relocated the cross member to the rear so that they did not cut half of it away for the shifter and the install also used the torque tube and not an open driveline.

[petew]

Glad to hear that you had a positive experience like I did and you are correct I can't leave mine alone . Got to go to Lowes jump in the A , post office run jump in the A and a large number of other errands as well .
Made a fun car even more fun.