Replacement distributor ????

[sphooch]

Hi guys , I'm thinking about changing out my Distributor. Here's why, it seems its constantly failing me. I broke down on a really crapie night rain and wind coming in, dark out and cold. every time i have trouble its always the ign. system. I have a31 roadster that i did from the ground up, 6yrs later i'm tired of the trouble. Right now I have modern ford points in the dist. and i really would like to keep the original look of things. Is there any good replacements that can be recommended ?? appreciate the help . THANKS THE HOOCH

[jeepguy1948]

I suggest that you contact Sean at FSI (First Street Ignitions) he can set you up with a brand new very high quality distributor with centrifugal advance and electronic module instead of points. You can get one (called a Zipper) if you want to keep the original batwing cap or a conventional looking one.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by sphooch

Hi guys , I'm thinking about changing out my Distributor. Here's why, it seems its constantly failing me. I broke down on a really crapie night rain and wind coming in, dark out and cold. every time i have trouble its always the ign. system. I have a31 roadster that i did from the ground up, 6yrs later i'm tired of the trouble. Right now I have modern ford points in the dist. and i really would like to keep the original look of things. Is there any good replacements that can be recommended ?? appreciate the help . THANKS THE HOOCH

sphootch - Puzzled what you mean by "failing". Properly built and toleranced, the distributor is one of the more reliable components, and all parts of the distributor are readily available.

One thing I've found that I haven't seen mentioned anywhere - some folks apply grease in the groove that the top plate rides in, with the idea that it makes the spark adjustment smoother. That can interfere with the ground (and hence points spark) between the top plate, the distributor body and ultimately the block. Best to leave that groove and the top plate dry.

If you don't trust your existing distributor and really feel compelled to replace it, new ones are available from the vendors (for example, Snyder's).

My $0.02 and likely worth exactly that much.

JayJay

[Cape Codder]

And here is my $0.02 worth!

You stated you rebuilt your Roadster from the ground up, then I don't see any reason why you just don't go back to [I]the original setup[I]and restore it. I believe your problem will be gone.

Years ago I had modern type setup in mine and I like you would have problems. Now I don't have that problem!

[31a]

I guess I am missing something also? What is wrong with your original distri
butor

[mcgarrett]

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Personal experience has proven to me that a properly rebuilt stock distributor using quality parts that have been installed correctly provide trouble-free service at a fraction of the cost of the electronic units.

[jb-ob]

Spooch,

How long have you been at this hobby? You haven't learned yet that these cars only exist to keep us 'humble' ?

Out driving on a dark & stormy night in a Roadster with side curtains that keep only some of the rain out AND with a single tail lite ? You were thinking what ??

Ignition is your problem son? Buy a professionally rebuilt ignition switch, a new coil, a 'new' distributor and follow the book about wiring it up.

After 55 years in the hobby (slow learner) I've come to the conclusion that we shade tree mechanics grossly over estimate our own abilities while shorting the geniuses who designed & built these cars new.

My $.02, hopefully your mileage WILL vary.

[Bob Bidonde]

Why modern points. The stock "A" points are superior and have been in service for 90+ years!!!! Have you actually pinpointed the source of your ignition trouble?

[chrs1961815]

As somehow who rebuilds distributors to the original specs, I can say that done right like anything on a Model A, they are extremely reliable. Your modern points may be a part of the problem, they are hit or miss in my opinion. Electronic ignition works great until it doesn't when you are away from home.

[sphooch]

OK , guys Im gonna go back and trouble shoot the ign. system again. let me pinpoint the problem and follow the advice on these pages. take my time and do it once again. thanks THE HOOCH

[Tom Endy]

The biggest culprit in a Model A distributor is the wire that connects the upper and lower plate. They are supposed to be a multi-stand flexible wire as they flex every time you move the spark handle. Over the years I have taken countless distributors apart and have found all kinds of strange wires installed, along with poor connections with black tape wound around them.

If you rebuild the Distibutor correctly with the original design parts, and the correct wire it will serve you well. It is also a good idea to have a second distributor with you that has been timed and tested on the car. And carry a bypass cable as well.

https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...Bypass-PDF.pdf

Tom Endy

[Marshall V. Daut]

Touching on what Tom just posted, I have seen questions posted here over the years by people, who are afraid to take a spare distributor on tours because they won't be able to go through the awkward timing procedure with a hand crank and the timing pin alongside the hot, dusty road. Fortunately, someone usually posts that this won't be necessary if one takes the time to set up his spare distributor beforehand. But other times such discussions end without this important piece of information included.
Because of the distributor shaft's offset slot, the shaft and drive gear can mesh in only ONE way. In other words, you can't install the spare distributor incorrectly. It will only drop into place when the offsets match. So, assuming the distributor now in place is timed correctly, bump the engine with the starter or hand crank so that the rotor's brass tip is opposite an easily replicated point vis-a-vis the distributor body, such as at the 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 or 9:00 positions. Twist the rotor to see where the freeplay occurs and make a mental note. Remove the distributor and put the spare one in place, either temporarily or as the one that will remain, saving the just-removed and timed distributor as the spare. Twist the shaft until the distributor nestles down into the cylinder head with its locating pin and shaft offset lining up. Now loosen the set screw inside the distributor cam (beneath the rotor) and rotate the cam and rotor tip it to where you had previously made a mental note. Tighten the set screw and test if the shaft's freeplay matches what the previous distributor showed. If satisfied, put everything back together and start the engine, checking the full retarded and advanced extremes via the spark lever. This procedure does not automatically ensure the timing will perfectly match the previous distributor's ignition timing characteristics for a simple reason that hardly ever is mentioned: the ignition points gap. Unless the point gap is exactly the same between the two distributors, you may have to tweak the timing a bit in order to get engine to run the way you like it. Points being too close or too far apart will affect the ignition timing. That's why it's a good idea to test the new distributor with the engine running and make minor adjustments to either the points gap or the initial timing itself via the cam adjustment. To ensure complete compatibility between the two distributors, adjust only the points gap if possible. Once completed, either leave this distributor in place or swap the other one back. Now it should only take a couple short, non-frustrating minutes to swap distributors alongside the road, should a condenser or the ignition points fail. I find it a HECK of a lot easier to simply swap distributors on the road rather than try to change condensers with the distributor still in the cylinder head. Those little round-head bolts are MIGHTY easy to drop and get lost forever in the sand or gravel where you have pulled over. Or drop down between the HOT manifolds. OUCH!!! 'Been there. Carrying a pre-timed distributor with you on tours and road trips is highly recommended instead. Change the condenser after the distributor has been removed and you are home again.
Marshall

[bobbader]

I'll chime in with my 2 cents. If you can guarantee the "NEW+ distributor is put together by a reputable rebuilder, go for it. If it comes from a place where someone unaware of anything but the steps to put the unit together, then there is little guarantee you will have any fewer problems than you have now. Mechanically speaking, all you may be assured of is that you have a new casting, shaft, and bushings. Electrically speaking, there's a lot more nuance to putting a Model A distributor together. As others have said, you'd be better off getting to the root of why the current system doesn't work. The items listed by JB-OB all contribute the competency og the ignition system as a whole.

[CWPASADENA]

I would not use an electronic distributor. Try to trouble shoot that thing on the side of the road in the pouring down rain.

I have over 19K miles on a distributor that I rebuilt when I restored the Tudor I use for touring. Same points and condenser. I have adjusted the points 3 times but that is about all.

Done correctly, original Model A distributor are very reliable.

My experience,

Chris W.

[jack backer]

FSI distributor with 40k volt coil. Mechanical advance insures correct timing at all rpm’s, Hall effect magnetic primary never wears rubbing blocks out, pits or needs adjustment. Consistent impulse yields consistent coil soak allowing the coil to charge fully and consistently. Wire it in correctly and it’s good to go, years of trouble free service with mine.

Pouring down rain trouble shooting? If a clear voltage signal is present and it doesn’t fire change module, done before you get halfway through seeing if the breaker plate wire failed again

[katy]

What is the thread size where the shielded cable screws into the distributor? TIA