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Old 10-09-2021, 10:44 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by koates View Post
First of all take note of Marts post at #33, very important otherwise you could cook your original coil. When replacing your high tension plug leads you must be very careful not to get just one plug lead positioned incorrectly in either of the dist caps. If this occurs then the engine will run a little OFF beat or rough, so recheck these. When testing the voltage at the coil what were the circumstances of the test? Was the engine running or not running ? If not running then were the timing contacts in the dist. open or closed because this makes a difference with the coil loading the circuit or not. Also if engine not running then how long did you have the ignition switch turned on for because the longer its on for then the hotter the resistor becomes and therefore the lower the voltage reading at the coil will be. The resistor is in the coil primary circuit to enable a good strong spark from a cold engine start. So therefore 2.4 volts could be OK depending how you tested. Use an analogue voltmeter because digital multimeters will jump all over the place on old cars. Dont get tangled up with all sorts of tests and changes, do one thing at a time otherwise you wont know what fixed it. You wont be able to test a condenser correctly without a specialized tester. The original Ford V8 condenser is rated at .36mfd where most modern condensers are around .24mfd but will work but not ideal. Regards, Kevin.
Thank you for this information. The other day I went back and recheck the wires and re ran them to ensure they were in correctly. When I checked the voltage at the coil the engine had not been running and I had only had the switch turned on for about 3 or so minutes.
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Old 10-09-2021, 11:52 AM   #42
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Have you tried a hot wire yet from the battery to the coil, just
to see if it will get spark & fire up for a few seconds ?




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Old 10-09-2021, 11:56 AM   #43
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Have you tried a hot wire yet from the battery to the coil, just
to see if it will get spark & fire up for a few seconds ?




.
I am having trouble finding anywhere that sells 14 gauge wire or 14 gauge wire with alligator clips. Only finding 22 gauge.
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Old 10-09-2021, 01:10 PM   #44
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I am having trouble finding anywhere that sells 14 gauge wire or 14 gauge wire with alligator clips. Only finding 22 gauge.

My goodness, any O'Reilly's parts stores have the 5-amp clips for $0.89/ea., & 16 gauge stranded wire for $0.49/ft., or 9 bucks a roll. Click the two links below and get-'er-done! You have one in Burlington at: 2419 N Church St, Burlington, NC 27217


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...st+clips&pos=8


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...age+wire&pos=9

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Last edited by V8COOPMAN; 10-09-2021 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 10-09-2021, 01:22 PM   #45
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Also looks like you have a Home Depot not to far from you.
https://www.homedepot.com/l/search/2...65118&radius=5
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Old 10-09-2021, 01:48 PM   #46
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Also looks like you have a Home Depot not to far from you.
https://www.homedepot.com/l/search/2...65118&radius=5
I just got the stuff going to get it all set up here and try it.
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Old 10-10-2021, 03:44 PM   #47
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Alright guys I tired the live wire and it still did not start. Actually sounded like it was spinning over slower. The battery has 6.3 volts.

Also just to make sure, I took the could wire off before hooking the live wire I suppose this was the correct thing to do?

Last edited by 34 fordor owner; 10-10-2021 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 10-10-2021, 04:09 PM   #48
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Hot wire from battery to one side of the coil.
Other side of coil goes to the points.
If yours is the diver's helmet style of distributor, the latter connection is made internally when the coil is screwed to the top of the distributor.

Did you say you are 16? If so then well done for working through this.
I wonder if anyone is nearby that could come over and help?

We will offer any assistance you need.

Sometimes (most times) it is good to take photos of what you have. It makes it easier when trying to offer advice.

Mart.
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Old 10-10-2021, 04:17 PM   #49
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Hot wire from battery to one side of the coil.
Other side of coil goes to the points.
If yours is the diver's helmet style of distributor, the latter connection is made internally when the coil is screwed to the top of the distributor.

Did you say you are 16? If so then well done for working through this.
I wonder if anyone is nearby that could come over and help?

We will offer any assistance you need.

Sometimes (most times) it is good to take photos of what you have. It makes it easier when trying to offer advice.

Mart.
Thank you it’s a pretty fun experience but discouraging at times. Yes, my distributor is the helmet/dome style and I connected it to the connection outside of the coil. I will provide photos next time.
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Old 10-10-2021, 04:46 PM   #50
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Did you get a chance to test to see if you have good spark at the plugs,
or is there weak spark or NO spark at all ?
Good spark, weak spark or No spark will be a big clue as to what the
real problem is, and what direction you need to take next.




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Old 10-10-2021, 04:52 PM   #51
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Did you get a chance to test to see if you have good spark at the plugs,
or is there weak spark or NO spark at all ?
Good spark, weak spark or No spark will be a big clue as to what the
real problem is, and what direction you need to take next.




.
Last time I checked there was a spark but seemed weak. I will check again and come back.
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Old 10-10-2021, 05:13 PM   #52
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Checked spark on #5 it is a super weak spark and some cranks there is no spark.
Would this be the coil or condenser?

Last edited by 34 fordor owner; 10-10-2021 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 10-10-2021, 07:17 PM   #53
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I also checked voltage on live wire to ensure good voltage at coil, with live wire I was getting about 5.6 volts to the coil.
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Old 10-10-2021, 07:42 PM   #54
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When checking for spark at a plug lead then hold the end of the lead 1/4"" away from a head stud nut and have some one crank her for you. Dont hold it near the plug terminal. The spark is timed so only happens at intervals. Regards, Kevin.
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Old 10-10-2021, 08:08 PM   #55
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Kevin, do you think it would be a wise choice for 34 owner to send his
old 1934 Ford coil to Skip to have rebuilt for $83, knowing then that he
will have a coil that will work correctly on hot days, and last for years.




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Old 10-10-2021, 08:20 PM   #56
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Kevin, do you think it would be a wise choice for 34 owner to send his
old 1934 Ford coil to Skip to have rebuilt for $83, knowing then that he
will have a coil that will work correctly on hot days, and last for years.




.
Sounds like a good plan. Kevin.
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Old 10-10-2021, 09:10 PM   #57
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If Kevin says it's a good plan, then I would follow his advice.
Your Old 34 Coil, even if Not completely wore out, is pretty
old, and Skip will update it and give you peace of mind.
Ask Skip about a correct ballast resistor and condenser too.




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Old 10-10-2021, 09:18 PM   #58
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In this vein, I seem to remember reading an article in "The V8 Times" where someone tested a whole bunch of original coils (even some NOS) and they all failed after heating up.
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Old 10-10-2021, 09:37 PM   #59
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In this vein, I seem to remember reading an article in "The V8 Times" where someone tested a whole bunch of original coils (even some NOS) and they all failed after heating up.
===============================================

Hey Denny, do have a condenser that fits this young guys '34 ?




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Old 10-10-2021, 09:43 PM   #60
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How are your battery connections. Are they clean? Maybe add a ground cable from the frame to your motor. Dizzy grounds to the block as well as the plugs, completing the connection.


*** 90% of the time the coil will only fail when it's hot, it will run before it fails. I'm guessing you are just trying to start the motor. A skip coil is a wornderful thing in the grand scheme of things.


.

Last edited by Tinker; 10-10-2021 at 10:39 PM.
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