Stiff Steering on 1931 Tudor

[Tudor Tooter]

Hello, Ford Barn. Another issue my Grandfather's Model A has is its steering. It is consitently quite stiff except for a small spot when the wheels are almost straight that it is incredibly easy. It feels like play in the steering wheel, but it does affect the direction of the wheels, anyway. Any ideas on how to fix this? It has a rebuilt steering box on it, so I don't think that is the problem. I'm guessing it's a worn part that was over-looked during the on-frame restoration? Thanks for your help.

When I get the horn and steering fixed, it should be 100% tip-top again!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Well, I have found "rebuilt" means many things to many folks. It could very well still be in the steering gear box. Sector bushings that were not align-honed will cause this, incorrect bearing to race match-up, poor quality sector and/or worm gear, worn bearing races not installed properly causing alignment issues, ....yada yada.

Also, worn steering arm balls can create an issue where the mechanic over-tightened the tie-rod end cups. Same applies with Pitman arm too. Start by disconnecting the Pitman arm and see how smooth the steering gearbox rotates from lock-to-lock.

/

[Jason in TX]

Have you newly greased all the steering parts and have enough air in the tires.

Tie rod ends, At the Pitman arm and drag link. Spindles... Hit all the grease zerks with a fresh shot.

Sounds easy, but that helps a lot.

[Bob C]

I would get a copy of the SERVICE BULLETINS if you don't have them
and follow there steering box adjustment directions, and as Brent said
check the balls on the steering arms for flat spots.

Bob

[jkeesey]

It sounds to me like the steering box is adjusted too tight, when they are rebuilt they are not set properly and need to be rechecked.

[Tudor Tooter]

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Correction: the steering box was NEW from Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, not rebuilt. So I'm thinking the problem isn't from the box? I think the steering arm balls is a good idea. I'll check those.

The tires are filled up nice, but it might could use some grease! Thanks for the tip!

One other symtom the car presents is it tends to bounce left to right when driving. It doesn't like to just drive straight. Is that because of the thin tires, though?

[jkeesey]

The left to right movement could be the toe setting. Jack up the front axle and turn it side to side and see if you feel the binding with the weight off the front end.

[1931 flamingo]

Is there lube in the steering box?? What is the tire pressure?? How about toe-in/out??
Paul in CT

[Jason in TX]

Another common mistake with new Model A mechanics is leaving the tie rod ends too loose. If while the car is sitting still, you have someone turn the steering wheel. Look at where the tierod connects to the steering arms on the spindles. The ball should not move back and forth in the tie rod end. Make sure those are tight.

Since you are new, how familiar are you with the words

tie rod
drag link
pitman arm
spindle
toe-in

I'm not saying that you don't know, but honestly, some people don't know, and that's ok. We all had to learn at some point.

[jkeesey]

Oh yeah I'm a dealer for Snyders and even though their boxes are new I've still had to reset some

[Tudor Tooter]

When you say too tight, do you mean the square headed adjustment bolt at the end of the steering collumm? Do you know what the factory setting was? I apologize for my youthful ignorance... I guess there's only one way to gain experience, though!

[Tudor Tooter]

@Jason in TX: I have never heard of any of those parts, but I guess there is only one way to find out! Do you have a diagram of the chassis of a Model A? If not, I can find one.

[jkeesey]

Jack up the frontaxle and turn the steering wheel lock to lock. If it feels okay in the middle but you feel bind towards the ends its too tight. I'm not sure if there is a factory spec on it. There are nuts locatedbetween the frame and the box holding the sector on. Loosen those bolts and turn the flat head slot in one direction and feel your play again. If its gotten better keep going until its the best you can get, if it gets worse go the other way. When its the best you can get tighten the nuts and recheck the play.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Tudor Tooter

@Jason in TX: I have never heard of any of those parts, but I guess there is only one way to find out! Do you have a diagram of the chassis of a Model A? If not, I can find one.

You really need to get a copy of the Service Bulletins and Les Andrews' book. Between the two of them most service and repair operations are explained.

[Blessyouboys]

Originally Posted by Tudor Tooter

... One other symtom the car presents is it tends to bounce left to right when driving. It doesn't like to just drive straight. Is that because of the thin tires, though?

Do you have shock absorbers on your car?
What pressure do you have your tires inflated to?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by tudor tooter

correction: the steering box was new from snyder's antique auto parts, not rebuilt. So i'm thinking the problem isn't from the box? i think the steering arm balls is a good idea. I'll check those.

the tires are filled up nice, but it might could use some grease! Thanks for the tip!

one other symtom the car presents is it tends to bounce left to right when driving. It doesn't like to just drive straight. Is that because of the thin tires, though?

? ?

.

[Marco Tahtaras]

First, I'm not sure what a "new" steering box would be but sounds a bit scary. An original '31 steering if improperly adjusted may bind to one side or the other OR bind at center but not both sides of center. Again, you said "new" so almost anything is possible.

I'm betting Brent hit it with the spindle arm balls and corresponding adjustment. Get the front end up just enough for the wheels to clear the ground. The steering should turn quite easily but you should be able to feel the tight spots. As Brent suggested remove the drag link but note first if the end plugs are tightened much beyond flush. That relates to potential over tightening. Try the steering box again to check for any difference in smoothness/feel. Also grab one front wheel and turn back and forth lock to lock checking for any areas of resistance. That is a good starting point.

[Kevin in NJ]

I looked over the comments and I did not see. Do you have 600WT oil in the steering box?

The oil does not sound like you problem, but it is wise to ask. Some people have put grease in their box and it gets real stiff. If you put too thin an oil in then it might have leaked out.

You are asking about the car needing to be jumpy cause of the thin tires, consider the following:

You should understand that your A should feel confident on the road when running 60 MPH. No, it will not jump around and feel like you do not have control.
A properly restored to factory car will feel comfortable at 60 MPH. It will feel like it wants to stop confidently at all speeds. At 45 MPH the car should be a super dream to drive.

A link to my comments on the A and how it should drive.

Unfortunately, may parts are not restored and some part like shocks just not in place. This leads to a car with a top speed of 45 MPH and most I have seen I think 45 is too fast for the car to be safe.

[glenn in camino]

If your spindles are worn they don't allow the bearings to work.

[1931 flamingo]

Where are you located?? Fill out the info on your profile, please. There may be someone right around the corner from you who would like to help. JMO
Paul in CT