Flathead Question

[JSeery]

Removing head studs can be a real challenge, there are several past threads on different methods used. Breaking a stud off in the block is not the end of the world, there are also several methods to remove them.

[Timstruck]

Originally Posted by Tinker

But by the looks of what you've done already and the 60s mag wheel in the background of one picture, you no stranger to tearing into something.

No, two Mustangs, a Dodge Charger, WW2 Jeep...but this is my first flathead and it’s a whole different animal...!

[JSeery]

Might want to study up on them, there are several good publications available.

[Timstruck]

Originally Posted by Tinker

You might find a map torch and some pb blaster or even better kroll over a few days will make the studs twist right out. Patience. Heat/spray repeat a couple days. Beats welding a nut and trying to get one that's broken or drilling and tap.

Thanks. I’ve been reading some posts on here about this. I have an acetylene torch so no problem heating things up. I’m going to give the wax method a try...

[Timstruck]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Might want to study up on them, there are several good publications available.

Thanks. I plan to do this. The transmission had some water in it. We got it freed up and loose. Yard drives good but any recommendations on rebuilding? I know there’s a good book on this but looking for advice. Any special 80 year old tools required if I did this myself?

[JSeery]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

And you may already know this, but do NOT use a tap to clean up the threads in the block after you remove the studs. It is taped for a tight fit and a tap will open the threads up. You can use a thread chaser or just grind a slot in a stud and use it to clean the threads up.

[richard crow]

1937 eng best flat head ford every made.

[flatjack9]

Use a torque wrench and don't exceed 70 ft' lb. Heat the block around the stud, quench the stud with a cold water rag and have a go at it. Sometimes tightening the stud slightly will break them loose. You can soak them with penetrant for a year and still not get anywhere.

[Mike in AZ]

If you go with the block mounted water pumps, it shouldn't change fan position relative to radiator. But you would have to go later heads than you have. And isn't your Go Devil engine in the Jeep a flathead? Lol. Welcome to Ford flathead V-8 fun. Mike

[Ggmac]

Do you have steel Pistons in it ? Flat or domed , Domed probably, std bore ?

[Timstruck]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

If you go with the block mounted water pumps, it shouldn't change fan position relative to radiator.

My concern with using the block water pumps is with the '36 radiator. Would the top hose connections line up with a different head?

[Tinker]

I believe there is a hose created for a 59a in the 36 what would be just fine as they are both mid head outputs. Depends on the look your going for and how much it matters. You'll probably be just fine with the head pumps, just hard to locate good pumps, but you already have them. skip or you can rebuild them easy enough, if they really need it (check fins, bearings, and leaks).


Old round-d-round guy told me you can flip the heads on the early fords and run the exit out the back. Thought he was pulling my leg till I took heads from a 35yr engine I had sitting on the floor of my garage and bolted them on. Yep. Being the rear of the engine always was a flow issue. 37 blocks worked superwell as you run a block pump and exit out the rear of the block. Of course you have to pipe it and cut your firewall/cowl.


The skip crew built a 37 with block pumps and head pumps. Bet that moved some water/coolent. Interesting though.

[Talkwrench]

This might help with head studs ..
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...95#post1551695

[rotorwrench]

I like the regular 1936 engine mounts myself. The head mounted pumps do fine. There are some 21 stud Sharp aluminum heads available now if a person wants but they are expensive. Skip Haney can put his high flow impeller on those stock head pumps and there will be no modification necessary. The crab distributor is just fine unless you want to put an original helmet type back on there. The later distributors were two bolt and required an adapter on the 3-bolt timing covers unless someone replaced the timing cover with the late type. The late type distributors starting in 1941 also came with the later 11A type advance unit. This was a common update since it will work in the older ones as well and was the replacement part from Ford. The late advance unit gives a bit more advance but not a lot more.