The Ford Barn

Juergen · 07-20-2017, 08:34 AM

Place an add here for the bells and see if you get some local responses. The V8 club is big in your area. Also place an add at www.earlyfordv8.org and see if any club member in your area has some spare bells or rear ends.

Seth Swoboda · 07-20-2017, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

I've got a couple old cars and an airplane...now, if I could only find a boat to complete this money-sucking trifecta!

Capt, maybe you could fly him the axle housings from Tubman's place?

Seth Swoboda · 07-20-2017, 08:46 AM

I think we needed to know what your intentions are. Do you want to put the rear end of this car back to stock configuration? If so remove the tacky coil spring set up, install a transverse leaf spring and either change the axle housings or swap the entire rear end out for an unmolested one. Either of these ideas are fairly simple but will require a little sweat equity. I think your cost here to do as I suggested, as the other guys suggested, is fairly minimal in the grand scheme of owning a V8 ford.

Capt Kirk · 07-20-2017, 09:32 AM

Would these work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1948-Fo...xYo467&vxp=mtr

Vics Stuff · 07-20-2017, 10:08 AM

I would weld up the hole and re drill the new hole. any type of epoxy fillers will not hold up to the road pounding and you will be out there doing it again.
Vic

Bob C · 07-20-2017, 10:36 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

Would these work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1948-Fo...xYo467&vxp=mtr

The one on the left looks like the hole is almost wore clear through the bracket.

Bob

rotorwrench · 07-20-2017, 11:33 AM

I looks like a previous owner had a problem trying to remove the shackle studs. They aren't easy to get out but with the right tools they come out OK. His attempt at drilling them out was a dismal failure.

Buying used bells is like anything else. Ask the questions that count like condition of bearing & bolt bores, condition of wheel bearing surfaces (actual size is good), and any other thing that might be worn out or bent. Photos don't always tell the whole story but lots of them can't hurt.

Besides the questionable shackle stud bore, it looks like one of the wheel bearing journals has already been sleeved. There are likely better parts out there than those.

Rustedjunk · 07-20-2017, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

I think we needed to know what your intentions are. Do you want to put the rear end of this car back to stock configuration? If so remove the tacky coil spring set up, install a transverse leaf spring and either change the axle housings or swap the entire rear end out for an unmolested one. Either of these ideas are fairly simple but will require a little sweat equity. I think your cost here to do as I suggested, as the other guys suggested, is fairly minimal in the grand scheme of owning a V8 ford.

'

It's not that I can't afford to do more. I just would like to drive my car for the rest of the summer. Right now it looks like I'm done. I called up French Lake Auto Parts and they wanted $400 for a replacement rear end. Then I would have to work on getting it over here because I don't have a truck.

Seth Swoboda · 07-20-2017, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustedjunk

'

It's not that I can't afford to do more. I just would like to drive my car for the rest of the summer. Right now it looks like I'm done. I called up French Lake Auto Parts and they wanted $400 for a replacement rear end. Then I would have to work on getting it over here because I don't have a truck.

Keep looking for a rear end. Put a wanted ad on this web site. Also, are you a V8 club member? If so put an add on the EFV8 club web page. If you're not a member you may think about joining. As JM35Sedan says "the $35 cost is worth the bi-monthly magazine alone". I'll tell you from experience the networking from Fordbarn and the EFV8 club is priceless.

Mart · 07-20-2017, 02:29 PM

The left side may be recoverable if the remnants can be removed. As stated above, the hole should be 3/4" diameter. Now, I'm going to stick my neck out re the right hand side. As stated above, if you can get the remnants of the old bushing out, you should have a partial 3/4" hole. A bushing could be fitted and the rest of the hole packed with (again as stated above) Devcon.

In my opinion, this would be a serviceable repair, for one reason and one reason only. The weight of the car would not be on the filled side. The weight of the car would be on the original area of the hanger. I cannot think of any instance where the filled side would be asked to carry any prolonged loading.

Not ideal, but as we used to say, it would get you out of the desert.

Now, don't get me wrong, a replacement rear end would be the best bet, but, in the meantime, until a better rear end assembly turns up, it would allow the car to be used (with appropriate care).

Mart.

dwaynec · 07-20-2017, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

I've got a couple old cars and an airplane...now, if I could only find a boat to complete this money-sucking trifecta!

I have the boat to make your dreams come true!

Rustedjunk · 07-20-2017, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

Keep looking for a rear end. Put a wanted ad on this web site. Also, are you a V8 club member? If so put an add on the EFV8 club web page. If you're not a member you may think about joining. As JM35Sedan says "the $35 cost is worth the bi-monthly magazine alone". I'll tell you from experience the networking from Fordbarn and the EFV8 club is priceless.

I'm a member of the Early V8 Ford Club. I'll go ahead and place an ad.

RalphM · 07-20-2017, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwaynec

I have the boat to make your dreams come true!

BOAT=Break out another thousand!

Seriously, I would do as Mart said, make a temp fix to get you through summer, then replace it during winter when you can.
Those new polyurethane bushings are not factory, but they sure are easy to install

Rustedjunk · 07-20-2017, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

I think we needed to know what your intentions are. Do you want to put the rear end of this car back to stock configuration? If so remove the tacky coil spring set up, install a transverse leaf spring and either change the axle housings or swap the entire rear end out for an unmolested one. Either of these ideas are fairly simple but will require a little sweat equity. I think your cost here to do as I suggested, as the other guys suggested, is fairly minimal in the grand scheme of owning a V8 ford.

It's a hotrod plain in simple. This is my plan down the road http://www.hotrodworks.com/product/b...le-conversion/ but I am going set things up so I can drive it easy.

tubman · 07-21-2017, 06:43 AM

The O/P asked for some photos of the bells I have so I sent him some. Some of you guys seem to be pretty good at judging the condition of these from just a few pictures. I'll throw a couple up here and would like your opinions, if any.

Seth Swoboda · 07-21-2017, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

The O/P asked for some photos of the bells I have so I sent him some. Some of you guys seem to be pretty good at judging the condition of these from just a few pictures. I'll throw a couple up here and would like your opinions, if any.

I've always thought the wheel bearing race was the most obvious and concerning. Are they pitted or excessively worn?

tubman · 07-21-2017, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

I've always thought the wheel bearing race was the most obvious and concerning. Are they pitted or excessively worn?

Just like EVERYBODY says, I think it is just surface rust and I think it should come off easily. I had a driveshaft that had been sitting for a while that had rust that looked worse than this on the yoke surface. After and overnight soak in "Rust 911" (Evaporust clone) it came out looking like new. I wouldn't want to use any kind of abrasive though. I think I should set up a fixture to soak them and then coat them with grease to prevent the rust from going any further. That will also allow me to do a closer inspection. They do look good to my casual eye now, though.

JSeery · 07-21-2017, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustedjunk

It's a hotrod plain in simple. This is my plan down the road http://www.hotrodworks.com/product/b...le-conversion/ but I am going set things up so I can drive it easy.

That's a rear axle setup similar to what I use, except I built my own.

Rustedjunk · 07-21-2017, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

That's a rear axle setup similar to what I use, except I built my own.

How did you do that? What's involved?

V8COOPMAN · 07-21-2017, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

The O/P asked for some photos of the bells I have so I sent him some.

I could be confused as usual, but I BELIEVE those two bells are both for the passenger-side, but what do I know? DD

07-20-2017, 08:34 AM	#21
Juergen Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 500	Re: Rear axle/wishbone destroyed Place an add here for the bells and see if you get some local responses. The V8 club is big in your area. Also place an add at www.earlyfordv8.org and see if any club member in your area has some spare bells or rear ends.

07-20-2017, 08:46 AM	#23
Seth Swoboda Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 3,787	Re: Rear axle/wishbone destroyed I think we needed to know what your intentions are. Do you want to put the rear end of this car back to stock configuration? If so remove the tacky coil spring set up, install a transverse leaf spring and either change the axle housings or swap the entire rear end out for an unmolested one. Either of these ideas are fairly simple but will require a little sweat equity. I think your cost here to do as I suggested, as the other guys suggested, is fairly minimal in the grand scheme of owning a V8 ford.

07-20-2017, 09:32 AM	#24
Capt Kirk Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Clarkston MI Posts: 830	Re: Rear axle/wishbone destroyed Would these work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1948-Fo...xYo467&vxp=mtr __________________ 35 Ford Cabriolet 56 Chevy Pickup 63 VW Bug Empty wallet

07-20-2017, 10:08 AM	#25
Vics Stuff Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Reno Nevada Posts: 391	Re: Rear axle/wishbone destroyed I would weld up the hole and re drill the new hole. any type of epoxy fillers will not hold up to the road pounding and you will be out there doing it again. Vic

07-20-2017, 11:33 AM	#27
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: Rear axle/wishbone destroyed I looks like a previous owner had a problem trying to remove the shackle studs. They aren't easy to get out but with the right tools they come out OK. His attempt at drilling them out was a dismal failure. Buying used bells is like anything else. Ask the questions that count like condition of bearing & bolt bores, condition of wheel bearing surfaces (actual size is good), and any other thing that might be worn out or bent. Photos don't always tell the whole story but lots of them can't hurt. Besides the questionable shackle stud bore, it looks like one of the wheel bearing journals has already been sleeved. There are likely better parts out there than those.

07-20-2017, 02:29 PM	#30
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,745	Re: Rear axle/wishbone destroyed The left side may be recoverable if the remnants can be removed. As stated above, the hole should be 3/4" diameter. Now, I'm going to stick my neck out re the right hand side. As stated above, if you can get the remnants of the old bushing out, you should have a partial 3/4" hole. A bushing could be fitted and the rest of the hole packed with (again as stated above) Devcon. In my opinion, this would be a serviceable repair, for one reason and one reason only. The weight of the car would not be on the filled side. The weight of the car would be on the original area of the hanger. I cannot think of any instance where the filled side would be asked to carry any prolonged loading. Not ideal, but as we used to say, it would get you out of the desert. Now, don't get me wrong, a replacement rear end would be the best bet, but, in the meantime, until a better rear end assembly turns up, it would allow the car to be used (with appropriate care). Mart.