1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,


I can't tell from the photo, but does what is left of your outer cowl trim panel fabric have a 'chicken track' pattern like on your firewall insulator? If so, durable replacements in fiberglass can be obtained from "restorations and reproductions" in Portland, OR.

David,
I was out for a drive in the truck and stopped to do a photo opt. When I got back in I saw a piece of the material you mentioned had fallen from somewhere, and it sure did look like chicken tracks. I will try to follow up on this in between tractors!

Tractors:
Guys yes this D14 may make a nice plow tractor! We had a WD45 on the farm with a push blade and it did a really nice job to move snow back out of the way, because you could keep pushing over the top. I ran it around for some jobs today and got it to act like maybe it will charge. It is 6 volt with positive ground. New battery was in it but it was hooked up backwards.
https://youtu.be/RYI4aypw9d4

Rgeards,
Chris

[GB SISSON]

Great little video! That is a Very straight and good running tractor!!!!!

[flatford8]

I agree, that’s a nice tractor!....glad it went to a good home!!......Mark

[Newc]

whoo! I recommend the firewall pad from Quietride. Used both and the quietrideis more like original, bur hard to install in a complete vehicle. Newc

[sugarmaker]

Ford barn folks,
How come some days it just doesn't seem like your getting any thing done. Then at the end of the day I was darn glad I completed the things I did do!
The Allis gets the attention today. Oil and filter change. Plugs, points, condenser, and rotor. Cap looked real good and the napa dust cover would not let the cap fit. So that will go back. Same distributor on most of these tractors. Then shot a couple cans of gunk on it and power washed years of grease and grime off. Signs that it was overhauled not too long ago. New exhaust gasket.
The 6 volt system is not impressing me. Working but typically sluggish compared to 12 volt.
Rain here a couple times.
Hope things are good in Ford land!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

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Ford Barners,
Well it was a record day when Cheryl went for her first ride in the 32. She said it was a little small in there! That's for sure! I have to set tucked in to the door to be able to work the brakes safely!
I did find where that chunk of 'chicken track' material came from. It is from the fire wall insulation material just above the clutch pedal. Ok there is not much foot room in there. and some of the material had been worn away years ago. I guess I got the toe of my big clodhopper caught on it while double clutching and broke off another chunk.
I have had the truck out several times recently in good weather with dry roads and have enjoyed the short rides and the waves and thumbs up from passerby's.

Have a couple things on the rebuilt engine. I think I will get a new drive gear assembly for the oil pump and the distributor. Also wondering about the oil pump its self? This one sure is pumping the oil out the back of the engine. How do you test them/ Or do you just replace any worn components? I refurbed the one that is in there now. Just would like to get this right when I put this next engine together.
I also have plans to do a atopsy on this Tenn engine to see why its leaking oil now.
If I was Mart, I would have had this engine out and back in several times! Guess I am getting lazy! And its so much fun that its running and moving.

I want to jack the front up and check for additional play in the steering joints, system. It still has some wobble.

Some pictures from down the road about a half mile.








Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Chris - thanks for the pics - great to see you out with the 32 and having some fun. I think you're pondering the new B engine the right way. Heck, you have a runner as it is, so take your time on the new one and do everything as best as it can be done - that way you know you'll not be worrying about it in the future. Take care and have a great Spring!

[sugarmaker]

oops double post! Sorry!

[sugarmaker]

Dale, Ford Barn Folks,
Drove the 32 around the block to Grandsons house.
Nic driving and his friend Travis took the 32 on a drive up the road, and said the death wobble was really bad.


I got the truck home and started taking the steering components apart. Got the main tie rod out and found the pass side arm was fairly loose in the socket. I think I can remedy that by just tightening to the next slot in the castellated nut. Yea its pretty yucky under there. Just has not had any love for 80 years!
Plan is to take the adjustable joints apart and check everything for wear.
Drivers side:


Passengers side:


Center of picture is the castellated nut that was loose causing some extra slop in the steering system. Tightening this should help:


Grabbing the tire at top and bottom I dont find much kingpin wear. Not that I am a great judge of kingpin wear. But I think the kingpins will not be taken apart at this time. i will have some time just taking the steering joints apart and deciding on any improvements.

https://youtu.be/zpIlQUuRd_A

Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


You are fortunate in that big trucks have separate spindle arms which means that you can remove the tie rod ends to check for wear without removing the front brake backing plates, which is required on the '32 passenger car and commercial chassis. And given the age and mileage of your truck, I can guarantee that there will be wear. Perhaps the wear will be extensive enough that the openings in the tire rod end for the ball studs have worn to the point where they are no longer something of a figure eight (with the top of the 8 smaller in diameter than the bottom - not like what I just typed). If that is the case, the tie rod ends should be replaced (along with what's inside them).

[sugarmaker]

David, folks,
I will be doing a evaluation of the steering components early next week. Yes with 100k miles on it there may be several issues!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
I got a break in the cooking action and checked in on the 32.
Not a great picture but I got the drivers side nut loose for the double steering arm. Did not get it to move out of its socket yet. Much tighter than the passenger side.:


Also removed the adjusting screw from the end of the link and found the internal spring in three pieces. I thought this end would just lift off the ball? Maybe I am not holding my mouth right? Plan is to take this apart and look for broken and or worn components, Found some already! I see Third Gen has some of the components too.
A little concerned that the ball portion will be worn??


Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


See my #1290 post above. You either have to move rod back a bit or turn the left front wheel to the left a bit to put the ball stud in the fat part of the figure 8 and then the rod should lift off the ball stud.


Humor an old man; given what you have found in that one drag link end, please do not drive your truck nor let anyone else drive your truck until you have mechanically restored both ends of the drag link and both ends of the spindle tie rod.

[sugarmaker]

David, Folks,
I just had to get my good eye on it and things came right apart. Nothing a torch and a 10 lb hammer wont fix!
I totally agree with you on the repair of the steering components. I have to get into clean up mode, inspection order parts and possible repair some items. I did not find any other broken springs when the other 3 joints came apart. but they should all be replaced. The end caps look really good. but the balls all have some wear on them.
I have seen that they make replacement balls that have to be welded in place. Has anyone welded and ground the balls back to near spec?
Thanks again for the support on this and way back this was one of the important things I wanted to go through anyway. So its about time I got after it!







Everything came apart pretty good. the 1/4 inch of protective crust encapsulating all the the steering components helped preserve the threads!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,

One of the main reasons these old Fords survived in far greater numbers than the products of its competitors was the preoccupation with the metallurgy of its steel and iron components. Those ball studs are a perfect example of that preoccupation. Anyone can reproduce one of those balls studs, but will they do so using the same grade of steel that Ford specified and followup with the heat treatment that is obvious when looking at an NOS example? Maybe yes, maybe no, but most will remain silent on the subject. You get to draw your own conclusions.

I would not use weld-on ball studs for the simple reason that the heat of the welds will alter their metallurgy. NOS examples are still out there; why take a chance?

[corvette8n]

Maybe barnfind has parts
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/member.php?u=11230

[STEVE O]

Hi Just my 2 cents after working in the medium truck world for 35 years, tie rod ends and such are best checked in there normal operating position and have someone slowly rock the steering wheel and watch for movement. Yes you have to jack it up to check kingpins and it certainly never hurts to shake the wheel to check tie rods and drag links. Once set in motion (shimmy) everything really comes into play such as steering box mounting, spring pin bushings and such. Chris love every post and know if you havent figured it out you will with the help of such great people on the Fordbarn. Happy Easter Everyone!

[sugarmaker]

David, corvett, Steve, Folks
Ham is cooking, sweet potatoes with maple syrup, German potato salad, Baked beans and bacon, Mashed potatoes and dinner rolls with honey, and it smells really good! Big family get together here today! Hope all is good in Ford land!

The steel in the truck products can be seen and felt for sure. Good quality items that have stood the test of time.
I may try to add material to these worn balls as the sockets still look really good. The small die springs are really the only parts that will need replaced. Also the seals and the seal retainers under each joint.
Now the pitman arm on the steering box should come off. I assume these are splined and are a tight fit. Anyone have experience removing these??
That ball needs built up some. Could do it on the truck but would be better if it was off the truck.
So my first thought process would be to Mig weld added material on to the worn are of the ball and hand work it to s sphere. Yea I know that sounds pretty crude. But I think it could be done with time and patience, a good eye and a steady hand.
i actually like that idea better than cutting off the stud, drilling a hole and welding in a new ball.

I did not look yet for NOS examples of the arms with the balls on them. That would be great. I did not see that barnfind had any. Will do a little digging.

King pins: I see GB Sisson working on his king pins. I dont really want to tackle that project. So on the drivers side there is almost no movement, on the passengers side there is a little movement. I am inclined to leave these as they are for now. Get the steering back together and drive it on my short trips.

Regards,
Chris

[flatford8]

The “ sunset” pics at “dusk light “ in #1286 are “Ragged ‘Ol Truck Art” at its best!! Happy Easter to you and yours,……now go enjoy that ham an’ taters!!
…….Mark

[Bob C]

There's a right side arm on ebay, seems a little pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/19387315783...BgFzIx&vxp=mtr
Snyders reballs the A arms but for some reason they show the big truck ones
discontinued. Send Barnfind08 a PM, he has tons of parts not on his web site.