Brake Rod Lengths

[Ed in Maine]

I have looked over past posts and other sources and most answers focus on getting the levers positioned about 15 degrees before the brake pedal is pushed so that they are vertical for maximum brake effort at lock up. It would appear that the actual installed length will very slightly. Is this true?? Has anyone measured the rods (pin hole center to center) after a proper assembly?

I would think that it is not practical to get every lever precisely at 15 degrees before pushing the down the brake pedal. Is this a case where you make a best effort and then perform a final adjustment with the brake shoe adjustment at each wheel? Thanks for your help, Ed

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Ed in Maine

I have looked over past posts and other sources and most answers focus on getting the levers positioned about 15 degrees before the brake pedal is pushed so that they are vertical for maximum brake effort at lock up. It would appear that the actual installed length will very slightly. Is this true?? Has anyone measured the rods (pin hole center to center) after a proper assembly?

I would think that it is not practical to get every lever precisely at 15 degrees before pushing the down the brake pedal. Is this a case where you make a best effort and then perform a final adjustment with the brake shoe adjustment at each wheel? Thanks for your help, Ed

The brake rod length is mentioned in the Service Bulletins. I don't have mine in front of me right now.

[Patrick L.]

If I remember correctly the length is 50.5" in length and 51.5" with ends attached.

I'm one that adjust them to what is needed. I figure they wouldn't be adjustable if they weren't meant to be adjusted.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

If I remember correctly the length is 50.5" in length and 51.5" with ends attached.

I'm one that adjust them to what is needed. I figure they wouldn't be adjustable if they weren't meant to be adjusted.

The brake rods on early cars were not adjustable. The owner was expected to use only the square headed shaft on each brake to adjust them.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

The brake rods on early cars were not adjustable. The owner was expected to use only the square headed shaft on each brake to adjust them.

It doesn't sound to me as though Ed has early brake rods.

[nkaminar]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

From the Model A Ford Service Bulletins Complete, original page 159 (page 57 in the book) all the brake rods should be adjusted to 51 7/16 to 51 1/2 inches clevis hole to clevis hole.

Over the years things get worn and changed so your rods may be slightly different. The trick is to adjust them for the correct lever angles front and rear and then not change them. Only use the adjusting wedge to adjust the brakes.

[CT Jack]

Maybe a wood wedge with a 15 degree angle can be somehow taped to the lever and vertically referenced to something like the king pin C/L. This would allow adjusting the brake rods very precisely and make both sides equal in length. Once adjusted remove the wedges. Just an idea.

[jb-ob]

ED,

Unless you own a brand new Model A, brake rod lengths are meaningless.

The 'magic' 15 degrees forward on brake levers is the result of having rebuilt all four brake backing plates etc. correctly. Anything less, you need to discover why and correct.

With the brake pedal rod set correctly that the brake cross shaft levers are perfectly vertical, point 'A'. Correctly restored brakes (brake levers @ 15 degrees) being point 'B', your four brake rods are dropped into place to connect all four corners.

An additional refinement is to screw the brake adjusting wedges in completely to lock all four drums. Now adjust & install your four brake rods. With the rods installed, back off the brake front wedges equally and same for rear. Final adjust of the wedges can be done by road test or with the wooden stick.

I hope this shows the significance of properly restored brakes levers vs brake rod length.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

From the Model A Ford Service Bulletins Complete, original page 159 all the brake rods should be adjusted to 51 7/16 to 51 1/2 inches clevis hole to clevis hole.

I think you mean page 259, the Model A Service Bulletins don't start until page 201.

[larrys40]

Agree with in post 8 on most.

Following proper comprehensive brake rebuild on each backing plate and centered brakes shoes confirmed adjust the wedges for a slight drag.
Then adjust rods as necessary making sure cross shaft arms are vertical to start. I never pay any attention to the dimension. It’s about adjusting them as needed but the levers need to be correct position to start. You sometimes have to pull them up a bit more than you think. Especially the rears where you have to overcome the play in back on the brake camshafts to bring then shoes out. All four wheels off the ground And a helper to keep pedal at 1 to 2 1/2 inch increments at the brake pedal until they are dialed in evenly. It takes some time and intuition to do it right. Just did one last night.
Brakes are a lot more work and I would add skill than folks think.

When done we’ll they can screech to a stop.
New cast iron drums and molded bonded shoes are they way to go.
I like Randy Grosse’s drums and shoes best for cost effectiveness and shoes lining quality. I’m NOT a fan of the new Snyders stipes riveted lining. The do Not fit shoes well and cause issues.
I suggest buying randy’s bonded shoes. Have done hundreds of rebuilds and there is much more to it than folks think.

Larry Shepard

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by jb-ob

ED,

Unless you own a brand new Model A, brake rod lengths are meaningless.

The 'magic' 15 degrees forward on brake levers is the result of having rebuilt all four brake backing plates etc. correctly. Anything less, you need to discover why and correct.

With the brake pedal rod set correctly that the brake cross shaft levers are perfectly vertical, point 'A'. Correctly restored brakes (brake levers @ 15 degrees) being point 'B', your four brake rods are dropped into place to connect all four corners.

An additional refinement is to screw the brake adjusting wedges in completely to lock all four drums. Now adjust & install your four brake rods. With the rods installed, back off the brake front wedges equally and same for rear. Final adjust of the wedges can be done by road test or with the wooden stick.

I hope this shows the significance of properly restored brakes levers vs brake rod length.

I agree. Basically the way I learned from Purdy Swoft years ago and I always do it (except for the stick). Purdy posted his method on Ford Barn numerous times in the past.

[jb-ob]

As someone who by choice is socially impaired while in the garage, I lack a 'helper'. I use an era brake pedal depressing tool made by 'Muther Manufacturing Co, Boston, Ma. Patented'. It is pictured in some early Murray Fahnstock Model A literature.

I don't have to provide it with beer or coffee, it's always pleasant, and knows when to leave when finished. Perfect.

[nkaminar]

I have the mechanical helper too. It is a modified clamp, the type that you squeeze. The moving part of the clamp and be turned around so that it expands when you squeeze. I adjust the brakes per the instructions but then do a road test. The road test always results in some minor adjustments.

Once the brakes are dialed in and work well, it is only necessary to occasionally adjust all 4 brakes one click or two clicks each in case you have not adjusted them in a while.

[Ed in Maine]

Thank you for all your excellent comments. I have gone to the Service Bulletins, it was an excellent source of information. Ed