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Old 06-01-2022, 08:15 AM   #41
Ricosan
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Thanks Coop, My current rod is only 4”. I’ve been searching everywhere for a 5” clevis rod bolt but couldn’t find anything longer than 3.5 “ This rod from third gen is exactly what I need. Ordered it.
B&S, I was trying to figure out a solution too. Maybe a threaded sleeve with a threaded bolt on the up side. Of course finding a 5” rod makes it all unnecessary.

Thanks Guys,

Richard
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Old 06-01-2022, 08:37 AM   #42
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

I have great fondness for "coupler bolts" in situations such as this.
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Old 06-01-2022, 10:01 AM   #43
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricosan View Post
Thanks Coop, My current rod is only 4”. I’ve been searching everywhere for a 5” clevis rod bolt but couldn’t find anything longer than 3.5 “ This rod from third gen is exactly what I need. Ordered it.
B&S, I was trying to figure out a solution too. Maybe a threaded sleeve with a threaded bolt on the up side. Of course finding a 5” rod makes it all unnecessary.

Thanks Guys,

Richard
Richard ....Don't forget to come back with a final report once you receive the goodies, and when you finally have it all glued back together and functioning correctly.

I'd be on the phone Monday morning with Michael Driskell at
"3rd Gen" just to make sure your order is in progress. One more suggestion...I like to put a jamb nut on a rod like that, snugged-up against the clevis to take-up any slack in the threads, although not absolutely necessary!

Coop/AMERICAN

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Old 06-11-2022, 10:23 AM   #44
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Hey Guys,

Got my 5” Cleve rod end yesterday. I have the transmission cover off.

It looks like the first thing to do is remove the rod end so that I can rotate it out and then reinstall the 5” and adjust.

Any tips or tricks to removing and reinstalling this rod?

Richard
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Old 06-11-2022, 12:27 PM   #45
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricosan View Post
Hey Guys,

Got my 5” Cleve rod end yesterday. I have the transmission cover off.

It looks like the first thing to do is remove the rod end so that I can rotate it out and then reinstall the 5” and adjust.

Any tips or tricks to removing and reinstalling this rod?

Richard

Richard ....Once you begin by removing that spring, things should get much easier. Remove the pins from BOTH ends. For your initial set-up, I would get that Columbia rod out of the picture until you zero-in on the proper adjustment and 'feel' for the clutch rod. Then, you can adjust that secondary Columbia rod to match what you have. How would something like that work for you?

The folks at "3rd Gen" are great to work with, aren't they?

Coop/AMERICAN

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Old 06-11-2022, 03:18 PM   #46
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

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Hey Coop,
Third gen are the best. Even with the Nationals going on they got me a measly bolt in record time!

I got the spring off, removed the cotter pin and removed both the rod for the clutch as well as the rod for the Columbia. The Columbia rod looks like it needs to be extended the same as the clutch?

The problem I am having now is that the new clutch rod won’t line up with clevis where both the rod end and the Columbia attach at the end of the clutch pedal mechanism. I have the clutch pedal propped up at the firewall.

I’ve tried to push the clutch arm on the but it will only move about 1” before it hits something that doesn’t want to move. That wouldn’t be the pp would it?

Richard
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Old 06-12-2022, 12:13 PM   #47
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricosan View Post
Hey Coop,


I got the spring off, removed the cotter pin and removed both the rod for the clutch as well as the rod for the Columbia. The Columbia rod looks like it needs to be extended the same as the clutch?

The problem I am having now is that the new clutch rod won’t line up with clevis where both the rod end and the Columbia attach at the end of the clutch pedal mechanism. I have the clutch pedal propped up at the firewall.

I’ve tried to push the clutch arm on the but it will only move about 1” before it hits something that doesn’t want to move. That wouldn’t be the pp would it?

Richard
Hello Richard ....I'm having a hard time following precisely what your immediate problem is, but it SOUNDS like you're saying that the new rod is too long, and that the CLUTCH RELEASE ARM will not move far enough forward to insert the pin. Is that correct?

IF THAT IS SO, yes...you are likely moving the CLUTCH-RELEASE ARM forward far enough that it is allowing the throw out bearing to make contact with the clutch release fingers on the clutch assembly. That would be the way the pedal-release assembly is designed to work.

If I understand what you are trying to explain, the NEW rod is making it SEEM that it (the NEW ROD) is too long. I'm going to suggest ONCE AGAIN that you quit worrying about that COLUMBIA rod for the time being! DO NOT attempt to hook-up the Columbia rod. In fact, disconnect that Columbia rod so that it is completely free from BOTH the clutch pedal, as well as the clutch-release arm....as if there was no Columbia rear end. This way, we can concentrate on getting your clutch properly adjusted, which is an absolutely necessity.

With both rods disconnected from the clutch-release arm on the transmission, you should be able to move the clutch-release arm fore and aft, for a relatively short distance. There should be a tiny coil spring (seen in picture BELOW) that puts some tension on the throw out bearing apparatus to retract it away from rubbing against clutch fingers with your foot OFF of the clutch pedal.



You should feel that spring tension holding the clutch-release arm toward the rear. You SHOULD be able to move the top of that arm forward a relatively short distance (MAYBE an inch or so) before the throw out bearing makes contact with the clutch-release fingers on clutch. All normal operation.

Your NEW rod should be adjusted so that when the throw out bearing is moved forward, just making contact with the clutch-release fingers (what you are feeling as the arm moves FORWARD), the TOP of the clutch pedal (foot pad) should be depressed only about 1" to 1-1/4" or so from normal, fully released position. That is the length that you need to adjust for on your new rod.

Can you do that, and let us know if you have success at attaining that adjustment? If so, does the clutch NOW feel like you know it should feel? You may have to fine-tune the length of the new rod by adjusting ONE TURN at a time. Let us know how that turns-out, and we will continue! Coop/AMERICAN

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Old 06-12-2022, 03:23 PM   #48
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

This may end up being a problem of improper adjustment of the fingers on the pressure plate relative to the clutch disk and the face of the flywheel, a not particularly rare oversight, especially if the flywheel has been resurfaced.
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Old 06-12-2022, 06:30 PM   #49
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Success!

I was really intimidated by the spring attached to the pin at the clevis rod eye. Even if I got it off, how would I possibly get it back on especially given the position I had to work in.

I had to do a little grinding on the clevis rod eye end to get it to slide back far enough to allow the pin to slide through.

Took it for a ride and the clutch works well.. Engages fingers about 1”.

Coop, I made a new rod for the Columbia that was about 3/4” longer than the original. I haven’t tried the OD yet. Was this the wrong thing to do?

Richard
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Old 06-12-2022, 06:43 PM   #50
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

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Originally Posted by Ricosan View Post
Success!

I was really intimidated by the spring attached to the pin at the clevis rod eye. Even if I got it off, how would I possibly get it back on especially given the position I had to work in.

I had to do a little grinding on the clevis rod eye end to get it to slide back far enough to allow the pin to slide through.

Took it for a ride and the clutch works well.. Engages fingers about 1”.

Coop, I made a new rod for the Columbia that was about 3/4” longer than the original. I haven’t tried the OD yet. Was this the wrong thing to do?

Richard

Richard ...SUCCESS is a word we like to hear around here. I'm really glad that we could walk you through that and get your car shifting as it should.

With that, I AM NOT the guy to be asking about that Columbia shift rod adjustment, as I don't KNOW squat about Columbias! Maybe "Kube" or one of the few other folks here with REAL Columbia knowledge & experience can come in here with the PROPER advice on that. If nobody chimes-in, keep on asking here in these pages. Coop/AMERICAN

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Old 06-13-2022, 02:41 AM   #51
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricosan View Post
Took it for a ride and the clutch works well.. Engages fingers about 1”.

Coop, I made a new rod for the Columbia that was about 3/4” longer than the original. I haven’t tried the OD yet. Was this the wrong thing to do?

Richard
Hey Richard ....I just couldn't leave you hanging in the middle of your project, even though as I said, I don't have any experience with a Columbia rear. One idea that I really try to adhere to is to never speak on this forum about something which I know nothing about. That is one thing that goes on here with regularity....folks spouting opinions that just ain't the way it really is in real life. Nevertheless, I'm gonna break that rule in this case. I've sort of looked at that Columbia valve. I BELIEVE that it is called a "B-1A Pedal Valve Assembly". I also BELIEVE that it merely shuts-off vacuum momentarily (while clutch pedal is depressed) to allow shifting of the Columbia O/D. I suppose that it COULD work opposite of that and momentarily ALLOW vacuum during clutch depression....what do I know?




So anyway, IF that is really anywhere close to the way it actually works, I don't see any reason why you could not just lengthen the Columbia shift rod as you suggested. If that valve is strictly a two-position, momentary switch, then lengthening the rod so that the valve goes FULL TRAVEL with clutch pedal depression should be all that is necessary to successfully complete your project. Does this sound reasonable with what you are seeing? Coop/AMERICAN

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Old 06-14-2022, 05:58 AM   #52
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

You've been in good hands with Coop and it looks like you've figured things out. One thing to think about on this is that you don't want the vacuum valve to be a hard stop for the clutch pedal. Make sure it operates as it should, but isn't bottoming out.
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Old 06-14-2022, 06:45 AM   #53
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

B&S makes a good point about the Columbia valve. It is connected to the clutch pedal, not the clutch actuating arm. The attaching point at the clutch pedal remains the same no matter how the clutch adjustment rod is adjusted. The adjustment of the valve actuating rod should not have changed. I noticed you said you lengthened that rod 3/4". I don't think that is the right move if the Columbia valve was operating correctly before.
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Old 06-14-2022, 07:30 AM   #54
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

40 cape, I see what you are saying. I should have left the original rod in place!
Now that I think about it, that rod was screwed into the Columbia Hydrolic until the hole lined up with the clutch actuating arm. It’s probably the same length. I’ll check today to see if it feels like it’s bottoming out.
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Old 06-14-2022, 09:34 PM   #55
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Hey Rico . . . don't assume anything is exactly correct (with the current Columbia valve). The point is that you have to think about the fact that the vacuum valve is secondary to the clutch operation and it should NOT be a dead-stop for maximum travel.

So, you need to ensure that it is adjusted such that it operates as it should, but not become a dead-stop for clutch pedal travel. I know how I'd do it, but if you have any doubts, then walk through the proper setup/adjustment procedure with the guys that made the parts (per my earlier post).
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Old 06-15-2022, 06:36 AM   #56
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Default Re: Hydrolic clutch

Hey B&S,

I didn’t get any work done on the car yesterday but I plan to work on the Columbia today. I’ll check first thing that the vacuum valve is not bottoming out.

Richard
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