Remove/install rear backing plates?

[Thearne3]

Hi all,

Rebuilding my brakes and had a hard time removing the backing plates with the radius rods and actuating arms in place. Les Andrews makes no mention of the difficulty of removing the plates with actuating arms in place. What’s the right way to remove and install without damaging the actuating arms?

At this point they’re off and I’d like to reinstall without damaging any newly painted parts. Less swearing would be good too!

Sorry if this is covered in the forum - did a search, but found nothing. Probably too easy to solve for everyone else!

Thanks,
Tom

[nkaminar]

Remove the radius arms at the front. Place the backing plate in position and put a couple of bolts in. Then place the radius rods on in the back and the remaining bolts and nuts. Leave the nuts loose. After both backing plates are in position, re install the radius rods in the front. It helps to have something to pry with. Put the bolt back in at the front and put the nut on but do not tighten the nut. Go back and tighten the nuts at the backing plates and then tighten the nut at the front of the radius rod. Not an easy job but can be done.

[larrys40]

One of my Earlier posts on same issue
Please read.

Default Re: Rear Brakes and Backing Plate R & R Question W/Pictures
Yes, you do NOT have to remove the arm to remove the backing plates .
As said remove the drum,make sure the e brake lever arm, outer return spring Nd key are removed by removing the clamp bolt that holds it tight and pull off. A small old chisel or screwdriver driven in the slot may help to remove.
Then with drum off force the service brake lever full forward pushing it over the cam. It should stay there if done right. Then you can remove the 4 backing plate bolts and remove the e brake carrier and then the backing plate. If you pull off and rotate it while the lever comes out the opening in the radius rod at the housing there is just enough room and clearance for removal. No need to undo radius bolts from either end. I do these probably every week on an A so those that say you have to remove radius rod are mistaken as it is not necessary .

From that point it is abench job and full backing plate restoration including bushing replacement and track service is in order
Larry Shepard

[larrys40]

I’m also posting a previous post I did from one having trouble getting the radius rods back on. I would NOT do it as stated in post 2. You will likely have trouble. If you are hellbent on doing it reconnect at the forward end first. Please read my repeated previous post below.




Default Re: Radius rod is too long
Russell,
I’ve done hundreds of A rear axles. Most of the time the radius rods can be a tight fit if you put your backing plate bolts in first .
My suggestion would be to remove the two forward upper and lower radius to housing and backing plate bolts on both sides unless you are inke having trouble with the one side. Install the forward bolt and nut at the u joint end. Leave loose. Go back to you trouble side and use a decent size line up punch and try to pull one of the leaves in the the housing holes forcing it in and when the other hole lines up tap in the respective backing plate and radius bolt.
You should be able to do this with both e brake and service plates on. Once the one bolt is lined up the other is fairly easy. You will have to tap it in as well but it should pretty much be lined up . Install castle nut and cutter key in when tight.

I do the fron end first most of the time as otherwise you are lining yourself up for a potential fight.
Not a big deal. It may seam logical to do the rear first and then the front but now you have learned why not to do it that way. Yes there are other contortions you can do to accomplish it but they too can be frustrating.
All the best
Larry Shepard

[Big hammer]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by larrys40

One of my Earlier posts on same issue
Please read.

Default Re: Rear Brakes and Backing Plate R & R Question W/Pictures
Yes, you do NOT have to remove the arm to remove the backing plates .
As said remove the drum,make sure the e brake lever arm, outer return spring Nd key are removed by removing the clamp bolt that holds it tight and pull off. A small old chisel or screwdriver driven in the slot may help to remove.
Then with drum off force the service brake lever full forward pushing it over the cam. It should stay there if done right. Then you can remove the 4 backing plate bolts and remove the e brake carrier and then the backing plate. If you pull off and rotate it while the lever comes out the opening in the radius rod at the housing there is just enough room and clearance for removal. No need to undo radius bolts from either end. I do these probably every week on an A so those that say you have to remove radius rod are mistaken as it is not necessary .

From that point it is abench job and full backing plate restoration including bushing replacement and track service is in order
Larry Shepard

X-2 just did it this way last month !