The Ford Barn

40cpe · 02-05-2016, 02:00 PM

I'm getting nervously close to starting my engine and want to do it with the least wear on internal parts. It was assembled with assembly lube on bearings, etc. I have the "95%" oiling system and will fill the filter with oil. My plan is to turn the engine with plugs out until I get oil pressure. I filled the oil pump gears with assembly lube. Will I gain anything by pouring oil down the galley going to the pump from the top? Seems as if most of it will run out the pick up tube. Anything I've missed?

Init1 · 02-05-2016, 02:09 PM

Sounds like you're ready. If the pump is packed tight you should get pressure fairly quickly. Pouring oil down the hole won't do much. Be sure to use quality break in oil and
start er' up.

harley · 02-05-2016, 05:01 PM

Your oil pump is positive displacement. If it is packed full of start up lube that should act as a check valve. I would fill the oil passage, it should drain thru the cam bearings to rod bearings. I used a 1 inch pipe with a 1x1/4 reducer on each end, screwed one end to oil port, filled with oil and used air pressure to fill the passages. No dry bearings and instant oil pressure on start up. Harley

47Sooner · 02-05-2016, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I'm getting nervously close to starting my engine and want to do it with the least wear on internal parts. It was assembled with assembly lube on bearings, etc. I have the "95%" oiling system and will fill the filter with oil. My plan is to turn the engine with plugs out until I get oil pressure. I filled the oil pump gears with assembly lube. Will I gain anything by pouring oil down the galley going to the pump from the top? Seems as if most of it will run out the pick up tube. Anything I've missed?

I'll be starting a rebuilt flathead up in a few weeks too and interested in this. I'm used to running the oil pump to pump up the pressure with a drill and priming shaft. Not sure what would be an initial break-in oil for these engines. Seems like I read somewhere in a previous post to use 20-50 racing oil.

flatjack9 · 02-05-2016, 06:15 PM

No way to drive the pump with a drill. I would use a good 10W 30 for first start.

flatheadmurre · 02-05-2016, 06:23 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Talking oil is like playing with matches sitting in a puddle of gasoline around her...wait and watch me burn

Use a break in oil for flat tappet cams.
What youre looking for is added protection for your cam and less friction modfiers to let your rings seat.
A straight 30 break in oil will do it.
Make sure your ignition and carb jetting is set so it will run descent.
Fire it up resist the will to let it idle...rev it up and let it run for 20min.

39topless · 02-05-2016, 06:52 PM

This won't work if you've installed the engine but if it's still on the engine stand, turn the engine 180 and let the oil flow. Good luck and relax, what's the worst that can happen?

40cpe · 02-05-2016, 10:19 PM

As Init1 said, I did get oil pressure pretty quickly, 50# using the starter. I'm using Comp Cams' 10w-30 break-in oil. Started it, timed it, ran it 20 minutes at ~1500-1700 RPM.

Mark's 37 · 02-06-2016, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harley

Your oil pump is positive displacement. If it is packed full of start up lube that should act as a check valve. I would fill the oil passage, it should drain thru the cam bearings to rod bearings. I used a 1 inch pipe with a 1x1/4 reducer on each end, screwed one end to oil port, filled with oil and used air pressure to fill the passages. No dry bearings and instant oil pressure on start up. Harley

I am thinking of doing this on my rebuild. Can you explain in a bit more detail how to do this? Thanks.

JSeery · 02-06-2016, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40cpe

As Init1 said, I did get oil pressure pretty quickly, 50# using the starter. I'm using Comp Cams' 10w-30 break-in oil. Started it, timed it, ran it 20 minutes at ~1500-1700 RPM.

Just to add a little, vary the speed around every few minutes. Such as 1500 RPM for a few minutes, then say 1700 RPM for a few, then maybe 1600 for a few, then back to 1500 and so on. What you do not to do is let it idle!

Bored&Stroked · 02-06-2016, 03:41 PM

Also, now that you have it running and you've broken in the cam - don't run it any more without putting it under load . . . or you may find that you have a hell of a time getting the rings to seal. Lots of guys like to sit in the driveway and idle the shit out of new engines - cause the cam sounds cool - not a good idea. Run it under fairly heavy load through the gears a few times . . . don't baby it.

40cpe · 02-06-2016, 04:28 PM

We're breaking in the cam with this 20 minute run, aren't we? How about running it after the 20 minute run, cool down, and re-torque head bolts? I'd like to set up my converted chevy distributor before it goes into the car. I realize the need to get on the road under load to seat the rings as soon as possible but some engine stand time is necessary first.

EDIT: Sorry Bored&Stroked, I didn't see your post before this one

JSeery · 02-06-2016, 10:50 PM

IMHO any idle time on a fresh engine is not good. Need to get the timing the best you can and not be messing around on an engine stand trying to adjust the distributer. If you need to set it I would run the engine up to say 2000 RPM (or wherever the advance max is) and set the timing at the total advance you are looking for (say 18 degrees or so). To do all of this you would need some timing marks on the pulley.

Bored&Stroked · 02-06-2016, 10:54 PM

Exactly what JSeery says!

40cpe · 02-06-2016, 11:38 PM

I'll hold off on any more running until I can load it up.

I'm covered on the timing marks

Binx · 02-07-2016, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Also, now that you have it running and you've broken in the cam - don't run it any more without putting it under load . . . or you may find that you have a hell of a time getting the rings to seal. Lots of guys like to sit in the driveway and idle the shit out of new engines - cause the cam sounds cool - not a good idea. Run it under fairly heavy load through the gears a few times . . . don't baby it.

And exactly this!! The rings need healthy gas pressure behind them to force them out to the cylinder walls and seat properly.

Lonnie

5851a · 02-07-2016, 09:51 AM

Just curious, but does anyone know how the factory did it? I'm sure the guys that drove them off the end of the line were not easy on them. I've always heard of the head bolt re torque but was it done at the dealer?

02-05-2016, 02:00 PM	#1
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	First start after rebuild I'm getting nervously close to starting my engine and want to do it with the least wear on internal parts. It was assembled with assembly lube on bearings, etc. I have the "95%" oiling system and will fill the filter with oil. My plan is to turn the engine with plugs out until I get oil pressure. I filled the oil pump gears with assembly lube. Will I gain anything by pouring oil down the galley going to the pump from the top? Seems as if most of it will run out the pick up tube. Anything I've missed?

02-05-2016, 02:09 PM	#2
Init1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon City, Oregon Posts: 208	Re: First start after rebuild Sounds like you're ready. If the pump is packed tight you should get pressure fairly quickly. Pouring oil down the hole won't do much. Be sure to use quality break in oil and start er' up.

02-05-2016, 05:01 PM	#3
harley Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Ouachita County Arkansas Posts: 59	Re: First start after rebuild Your oil pump is positive displacement. If it is packed full of start up lube that should act as a check valve. I would fill the oil passage, it should drain thru the cam bearings to rod bearings. I used a 1 inch pipe with a 1x1/4 reducer on each end, screwed one end to oil port, filled with oil and used air pressure to fill the passages. No dry bearings and instant oil pressure on start up. Harley __________________ people have more trouble than anybody

02-05-2016, 06:15 PM	#5
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,526	Re: First start after rebuild No way to drive the pump with a drill. I would use a good 10W 30 for first start.

02-05-2016, 06:23 PM	#6
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: First start after rebuild Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Talking oil is like playing with matches sitting in a puddle of gasoline around her...wait and watch me burn Use a break in oil for flat tappet cams. What youre looking for is added protection for your cam and less friction modfiers to let your rings seat. A straight 30 break in oil will do it. Make sure your ignition and carb jetting is set so it will run descent. Fire it up resist the will to let it idle...rev it up and let it run for 20min.

02-05-2016, 06:52 PM	#7
39topless Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,027	Re: First start after rebuild This won't work if you've installed the engine but if it's still on the engine stand, turn the engine 180 and let the oil flow. Good luck and relax, what's the worst that can happen?

02-05-2016, 10:19 PM	#8
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: First start after rebuild As Init1 said, I did get oil pressure pretty quickly, 50# using the starter. I'm using Comp Cams' 10w-30 break-in oil. Started it, timed it, ran it 20 minutes at ~1500-1700 RPM.

02-06-2016, 03:41 PM	#11
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,064	Re: First start after rebuild Also, now that you have it running and you've broken in the cam - don't run it any more without putting it under load . . . or you may find that you have a hell of a time getting the rings to seal. Lots of guys like to sit in the driveway and idle the shit out of new engines - cause the cam sounds cool - not a good idea. Run it under fairly heavy load through the gears a few times . . . don't baby it.

02-06-2016, 04:28 PM	#12
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: First start after rebuild We're breaking in the cam with this 20 minute run, aren't we? How about running it after the 20 minute run, cool down, and re-torque head bolts? I'd like to set up my converted chevy distributor before it goes into the car. I realize the need to get on the road under load to seat the rings as soon as possible but some engine stand time is necessary first. EDIT: Sorry Bored&Stroked, I didn't see your post before this one

02-06-2016, 10:50 PM	#13
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: First start after rebuild IMHO any idle time on a fresh engine is not good. Need to get the timing the best you can and not be messing around on an engine stand trying to adjust the distributer. If you need to set it I would run the engine up to say 2000 RPM (or wherever the advance max is) and set the timing at the total advance you are looking for (say 18 degrees or so). To do all of this you would need some timing marks on the pulley.

02-06-2016, 10:54 PM	#14
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,064	Re: First start after rebuild Exactly what JSeery says!

02-07-2016, 09:51 AM	#17
5851a Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: NE Iowa Posts: 1,664	Re: First start after rebuild Just curious, but does anyone know how the factory did it? I'm sure the guys that drove them off the end of the line were not easy on them. I've always heard of the head bolt re torque but was it done at the dealer?