Installing water pumps

[scott554]

Well here is a newbew question gentlemen, I just got my pumps back from skip and was going to install and found that the front of the motor is lower now, I am new-ignorant to the flathead so question is whats the best way to raise and not to cause damage and is using silicone on the gasket excessive? I read from skip to just oil the gasket and install, also he advises to use Barrs aluminum flakes and I can only find the large bottle of liquid instead so will that work or keep looking. Thanks for the help.

[charles in east texas]

What year car?? Charles

[BILL WZOREK]

Scott:

I am not trying to be a smart A** but you had the pumps done by Skip He recomends to oil gasket so why not just oil gasket. As far as Barrs aluminum flakes vrs.Large bottle of liquid Asking here you will get many / many answers all the way from don't need any to BLACK pepper is all that is needed.
My understanding is Ship does return phone calls & emails some times not same day if he is busy ,But my Suggestion would be to contact Skip and do what he recomends to do concerning the install of his rebuilt pumps.

BILL W

[scott554]

I have a 1950 custom. I was just wondering, oiling sounds oldschool and just wanted to ask, there are new and improved products out today and just wondered if using would improve my chances of warding off any leaks or future problems.

[ford38v8]

Oil is used not for sealing, but for locating the gasket properly while you install the pump. The gasket itself provides all the sealing you need.

Using silicone sealant anywhere that interfaces with the engine oiling system* or the fuel system is risky due to the possibility of clogging passages with sealant.

*Not sure if your pump has sealed bearings or the oil fed.

[G.M.]

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One of the "guessperts" on the V/8 forum put silicone on not one but 2 sets of pumps. A thin coat wasn't good enough he loaded them up and sealed the oil holes. Skip machines the mounting surface of the pumps so they are dead flat, clean the block surface GOOD. I believe Skip says to apply a thin film of grease to both sides of the gasket. Done like this they will never leak. Plus the grease preserves the gasket and if you have to remove the pump the gasket don't tear apart and can be reused. The Barr's he refers to is the liquid heavy duty with aluminum flakes in it. Over a long period of time the flakes with Skips pumps pushing almost twice the coolant through system clean the tank and tubes. This takes a long time. I lost my pictures and have to reinstall them but I have posted in the past showing how bright and shinney the top plate and tubes look. G.M.

[cuddles1]

Grease---my boy---Grease !!!!! That's what Skip recommands; just had pumps put on; and followed his directions to the "T"; including the water weater and Barrs---- So far ---so good! The grease retains the gaskets to the pumps while bolting them to the block.....

[Mike in AZ]

just curious as to why the front of your engine is lower now....same pumps, right?....same mounting rubber, etc??..or is there something between the pump and frame?...Mike

[scott554]

Trying to figure out why the front dropped a little is frustrating me , first I did not know the pumps were attached to the front engine mounts till furthur inspection, look dont laugh always been a Chevy guy, if I set the pump on the mount the impeller hits the water hole opening, go figure. Thanks for the help, I guess if I dont figure it out there will be a clean 50 for sale here in about a week.

[BILL WZOREK]

Scott

Am I to understand that you took the pumps out with no suport under the motor ?
If you need you can put a 2X4 under pan and jack up a little to get the clearence needed
Now Don't go crazy when you jack it up.

Let us know how you make out.

BILL W

[scott554]

Yes ignorance on my part I will admit that, did not know to block it.

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

just curious as to why the front of your engine is lower now....same pumps, right?....same mounting rubber, etc??..or is there something between the pump and frame?...Mike

As someone said why is the mtr. now lower than before,hope its not just hanging there by the rear mount. It should be higher now if you got a support under the pan you had to lift it up to remove the pumps??? Use oil as the rebuilder says,who should know better Joe Blow or him. ken ct

[scott554]

Tried block under pan and jacked up easy but dont get any movement where the pumps bolt on, any other sugestions?

[Mike in AZ]

got pics??....how did you get pumps off??.,...Mike

[G.M.]

If you have the jack under the pan the and the motor mount bolts are off the engine will raise with a block of wood under the front edge of the pan so you don't bend the pan. The engine only has to come up a 1/4" to change the pumps. The wood may be hitting the frame or X member, if the happens the whole car will raise. G.M.

[scott554]

Well what I found is the motor is solid its the mount that the pumps bolt to that is rubber and they mount to the front cross member, it pushes up and does not allow the pump to slide in unless you pry it down but you then cannot get the pump slide on, sorry guys not a novice just never seen anything like this, use to my side oiler and small blocks but thinking about getting the BFH out in a few. Lol

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Well Scott, it don't sound like you have much patience. BUT, with the pumps unbolted from the motor mounts, jack up the engine a little, install the pumps on the block, lower the engine down onto the mounts put the bolts into the pumps. Practice patience, things will go alot smoother. Walt