31 distributor

[Rip]

Working thru steps to resolve previously posted stalling upon stopping. Today trying to check distributor gap and find TDC of #1. Arms not long enough to feel compression while turning handcrank and need third hand to fit timing rod into that depression. Darn radiator in the way. The engine ran yesterday but I can't see the points open/close and distrib shaft has only slight lobes (loosely measured at (.006-.007). Other findings: #1 plug rich/sooty and at .035". Distributor Shaft has no wobble or slop. Rotor feels little loose. Feeling dumb but what am I missing. Help please. Rip

[Brentwood Bob]

To find the depression in the timing gear try a stubby phillups head screwdriver with your left hand facing the radiator and slowly inching the motor by pulling up on the hand crank with the right hand.
Bob

[Art Newland]

You have to wiggle the distributor shaft pretty hard, the spring on the points is pretty stiff.

[Rip]

Thanks. Think I got it .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Your distributor cam better have a lot more than .007" bumps on it, or you won't have .020" points gap and a good dwell. Dwell is the number of degrees the points are closed. If the rubbing block is half way between the pivot and points contacts, that will give you a 2 to 1 ratio for contact opening, so you need .010" just to open the points.020" plus you need more to allow for dwell.

[Rip]

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Ok. Looks like I misread caliper and might be 0.070, not 0.007. But with feeler gage points are 0.004 not even close to 0.020. It ran fine before stop sign stalling. Little nervous about adjusting points ,then static time. Just my luck it won't start or run probably. Guess my question is twofold: do points have to be set before static timing and I didn't know an engine would run with that small of point gap?

[wmws]

It would probably run at .007 but not very well. Yes set the point gap and then do the timing.

[tbirdtbird]

Time to roll up your sleeves. Checking and adjusting point gap and setting timing are very basic skills for anyone who is gonna own a Model A.

It is a miracle that the motor ran at all with that small a gap. A change in gap will affect your timing, also.

Many threads and pix here about these skills. Just do a search. For timing, an A could not be easier to time. People make it harder than it is. Tom Wesenberg has posted a pic many times of where your rotor should point when the timing pin is inserted into the dimple in the cam gear. Do a search for that pic. Do exactly what he says and the timing will be perfect.

You seem to know the difference between static and dynamic timing, so it would seem you have some skills. And you will never be able to dynamically time an A, unless you get an electronic dizzy from FSI

Once you get the points set to .020, then time it, then never look back on the timing, just reset the point gap to .020 every so often. Be sure to use some dizzy cam lube on the points rubbing block. I use hi-temp silicone grease (just a tiny amount!!!!), typically can be had at NAPA, OReillys, etc, as used for disc brakes, etc.

Your car will run amazingly well

[Jon]

OK< so it was running but stalled when you stopped. Seems you should be looking at carb float first??

[heneste]

If your arms are too short to hold onto the timing pin while turning the crank, I've seen some model a owners jury rig a spring loaded tube sandwiched between the rad sides and the timing pin. Don't use too heavy a spring as you don't need something being forced back through the rad. Or you could always bend a piece of flat stock with a hole in the end to press against the timing pin and have it come out beside the rad shroud as you turn the crank with one hand and press on the stock with the other.

[JOHN CT]

I remove the distributor cap bump the starter till I get close to the #1 contact then put in 3 rd gear and roll the car forward by the spokes on the wheel till the pin falls in. Pretty easy I think just don't try to turn the motor over by grabbing the fan

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Jon

OK< so it was running but stalled when you stopped. Seems you should be looking at carb float first??

Normally I would agree, but with his points so far off I'd set them and the timing first.

[Rip]

Turns out I mis-connected rpm gage and misread distributor shafts bumps. Bum brain ��.
Apparently before starting this journey, I couldn't resist tighten the points unit and subsequently minimized the gap and promptly forgot that.

Yesterday thought timing was right on but then did points to .020. Timing still late until higher than the 550rpm idle. Spark advance lever does advance a some to normal.

Guess I'll retime the engine. Made so many errors, am I correct that adv lever shud be full up(retarded) as I retime? Guess I'll pull 4 plugs and crank handle until "pin" falls in depression. Didn't have much luck with the stubby screwdriver. Appreciate everyone's help and patience.

[Patrick L.]

I was going to mention removing all the sparklers and rolling the car in gear, but, John said it first.
Also it may help by sharpening the end of the timing pin or using something else similar. [ I grab the belt, not the fan, to roll the engine]
Points are set first as said to to .020" and The timing lever should be up when adjusting timing.

[Bob Wright]

Try this web site: HTTP://abarnyard.com/ ,this is Marcos Tahtaras's web site a great Model A resource.
Bob