New Oil Filter Kit. What oil to use?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Lee29coupe

Dump the filter kit, use high quality synthetic oil and change it every six months or 300 to 500 miles, which ever comes first. Good synthetic like Caster, Mobil One etc will remove all sludge after a couple of oil changes. The Model A has a super low pressure oil system that doesn’t push oil through filter element very well and most oil is diverted out of the top of the oil pump when backup pressure overcomes oil pump spring pressure anyway. After car sits for awhile most oil gets cold and thick and seeps out of filter and filter has to fill up again before it can get oil to valve chamber and babbits so you start engine somewhat dry until oil can go through all that add on stuff. Trust old Henry Ford, run it mainly as he made it but use the best synthetic oil and change it regularly. Don’t bother with the filter, it does more harm than good in the long run. Spend cash on goodK&N air filter kit instead.

I disagree. A good 10w-40 Multi-grade oil should not get thick and most filter manufacturers install a anti-drain back valve for a reason. If the filter is mounted vertically I don't see how the oil is going to run uphill. The inlet and outlet of the filter are at the top.

The only reason the Model A "has a super low pressure oil system" is because it is open ended into the valve chamber. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump and will put out more than enough pressure to overcome the little back pressure the filter creates.

[Ramman]

Wasn't #1 rod also fed by the pump?

[JOES31]

I thought that synthetic oil would leak out & therefore it was
not recommended. Is that just a wives tale?

[johnneilson]

there are lots of old wives tales here....

John

[Werner]

The worst oil filter is better than no oil filtering!

The filter collects soot and dust that would otherwise be constantly circulated in the oil circuit. As a result of this many years of experience, all later engine designs have a filter.

My revised oil pump presses about 4 - 5 bar pressure against the closed line. The resistance of a filter with <0.15 bar does not slow down the flow rate.
Modern engine oils ensure that the inside of the engine stays clean. Since the A has no non-ferrous metal and no rubber sealing rings installed, there are no problems in this regard.

For example, I have been driving the API classification SN for almost 10,000 miles.

[Lee29coupe]

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Y-BlockHead, the systems most filter conversions use is mounted on the side of aluminum cam cover, filter mounts sideways. That’s why it will allow flap in filter to seep oil out. Also something to think about is the copper tube that goes into oil passage from pump to filter has an inside diameter smaller than the oil feed passage from pump, compounds reduced effectiveness of intention to deliver filtered oil. The subject with the oil feed lines with the 10W30 synthetic oil should be fine as long as engine is used on a regular Basis to keep good oil film on crank and rod bearings. If I remember right the pressurized system requires that the oil pump be modified to produce more pressure.

[nkaminar]

So you have a pressure system. That means that the oil pressure is higher. You can run a full flow oil filter but you will have to modify the engine by drilling and tapping a hole to run the oil out to the filter and back into the oil galleries. Some engineering is necessary. Read "4-Bangers! And Me" by Jim Brierley.

It is a good idea to install an oil pressure gauge. It likely can be installed at the pipe fitting on the side of the engine where the vertical shafts for the oil pump and distributor are. You can run tubing for a mechanical gauge or a transducer and electronic gauge. Get a gauge that registers 50 psi. You may want to put a lower pressure gauge in after you know what the pump is putting out. You can just install the gauge in the engine compartment if you don't want to monitor it while driving.

Read John Neilson's post, #20.

With a pressure system the rod bearing can be pressure fed or splash fed. The way to tell is to look for the oil holes in the rod journals. If the have the hole they are pressure fed.

[Ruth]

Never mind.

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by Lee29coupe

Y-BlockHead, the systems most filter conversions use is mounted on the side of aluminum cam cover, filter mounts sideways. That’s why it will allow flap in filter to seep oil out. Also something to think about is the copper tube that goes into oil passage from pump to filter has an inside diameter smaller than the oil feed passage from pump, compounds reduced effectiveness of intention to deliver filtered oil. The subject with the oil feed lines with the 10W30 synthetic oil should be fine as long as engine is used on a regular Basis to keep good oil film on crank and rod bearings. If I remember right the pressurized system requires that the oil pump be modified to produce more pressure.

If using a model a pump in pressurized system there must be a pressure regulator added to the system
This is one reason that later v8 pumps are adapted
They have press reg built in

J

[SDJason]

Originally Posted by Grumps

...I would start out with an add on oil filter kit and start out running it with fresh oil. The kit was bought from Snyder's and looks to be styled like a Kenz and is a simple bolt on system...

Originally Posted by Grumps

Yes, it has steel oil lines, so I guess it's a pressurized system and no I didn't use the aluminum cam gear. Tell me what the pressurized system does? Will it have more oil pressure?

You may want to post a picture of what, exactly, you have installed on your engine...the Kenz is a bypass oil filter system, and unless some modifications have been made, would NOT be pressurized.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Lee29coupe

Y-BlockHead, the systems most filter conversions use is mounted on the side of aluminum cam cover, filter mounts sideways. That’s why it will allow flap in filter to seep oil out.

This statement is completely false. That flap is the anti-drainback valve. It will not allow oil to seep out – that's its entire job, keeping oil in the filter when the filter is mounted in a non-vertical position. It does this very well on late-model cars and will also do so on the A (unless a well-meaning owner has punched it full of holes like some people recommend). The oil inside the filter presses on a silicone or nitrile flap, holding it against a flange and creating a seal. When the engine starts again, the incoming oil from the pump presses the flap away from the flange and the seal is broken.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Lee29coupe

Y-BlockHead, the systems most filter conversions use is mounted on the side of aluminum cam cover, filter mounts sideways. That’s why it will allow flap in filter to seep oil out.

Originally Posted by alexiskai

This statement is completely false. That flap is the anti-drainback valve. It will not allow oil to seep out – that's its entire job, keeping oil in the filter when the filter is mounted in a non-vertical position. It does this very well on late-model cars and will also do so on the A (unless a well-meaning owner has punched it full of holes like some people recommend). The oil inside the filter presses on a silicone or nitrile flap, holding it against a flange and creating a seal. When the engine starts again, the incoming oil from the pump presses the flap away from the flange and the seal is broken.

Thank you Alexiskai... Saved me the trouble of responding and you did an excellent job of explaining how the anti-drain back valve operates. And what not to do as a well known YouTuber recommends in his videos.

[1929]

When I change my oil, the black filter located at the lower right in the picture, is always filled with oil.

[ModelA29]

Since the A relies on splash and drip oiling don't use 40W or higher. You need the oil to be thin enough to be easily moved around in the engine. 30W is fine if your engine rattles adjust the bearings (or repair).

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

Since the A relies on splash and drip oiling don't use 40W or higher. You need the oil to be thin enough to be easily moved around in the engine. 30W is fine if your engine rattles adjust the bearings (or repair).

The old chestnut "Which oil?" question has been done to death and we are no closer to a definitive answer. Sure, 40W oil or thinner will do fine. I use the cheapest 20W50 oil that is on special. 70,000 miles hard use and still going fine.
Let the "debate" continue.

[Lee29coupe]

1929,Y-block, you are both with right with the filters mounted vertically, like when you use the Ford factory 45 degree mount found on a lot of older Ford V8s. Look how 1929’s is mounted. The oil will not seep out going up. The ones I am referring to are the horizontal mounted to the Cam cover, the safety drain back is just a flap so if you let it sit awhile the oil will seep out of filter. The drain back thing is just a flap that will allow seepage because it is held in place by the oil behind it. If you are lucky to find the 45 degree adapter that you can mount to the cam cover oil filter no worries, mail order places used to sell them but haven’t stocked them when I was lookin for one, all the hot rod guys grabbed the ones in junkyards, they are a dream for engine swaps when oil filter is in the way of things. Anyone want to buy a nice oil filter cam cam cover and tubing, I just happen to have one I don’t need, sell for a good price, cash only? If you do use the thicker oil, 20w50 just put and old electectic blanket around the engine turned up over night to keep the cast iron and oil warm in cooler times, works pretty good for initial start on a cold morning. Again, I have a Mikes Affordable Model A parts oil filter complete setup, will sell cheap, cash only.