? clearance between radiator and fan?

[jeffo]

I am installing a radiator in a early 28 tudor. The radiator was sent to Berts to be recored and they used a 3 core and it is about 3/4" thicker than the stock 2 core core and don't think there will be enough clearance if any.
I do not have the cowl and gas tank on the car but he radiator has to lean forward a bit to clear the water pump shaft.
Berts did mention that they had to send it to a different shop than they normally use but said they were a good shop.

Jeff Owen

[Tom Wesenberg]

You mentioned a "stock two row core". I have an aftermarket radiator on the shelf that is only two rows, but all original radiators that I've seen have more than two rows, and the 1928-9 are round tube.

I have the original radiator and fan in my 1928 Phaeton and have about 1" clearance from the front of the water pump shaft to the core.

I can measure the thickness of an original 1928 radiator core if that would help.

[jeffo]

The radiator that we were running in the car was a 2 core but it had been recored (it is the flat tubes) The one we sent to be recored had been in the car at one time but I did not measure the thickness before we sent it.
Right now with the recored radiator it is leanig forward and with the fan up and down I have about 3/8" clearance at the bottom and about an inch at topand about 3/8" at the fan nut.

Jeff

[Fred K-OR]

I installled one of Bert's heavy duty recored radiators last winter. I also installed a leakless water pump which has a "fixed" shaft. The fixed shaft does not allow the shaft to move back and forth. It ended up that the fan shaft was about 1/4 inch from the radiator. I made sure the bottom of the radiator was pulled a far to the front as I could get it. Thus I was able to get the radiator to stand up "straight". If the bottom does not come front far enough, maybe it you would enlongate the mounting holes so that it would move front more. I have put over 500 mile on the rig since installing the radiator and it had not moved or gotten any closer so far. So far so good. I think it is important to make sure your rods from the firewall are adjusted correctly and tight.

I think maybe the only problem I may have will be to change the fan belt. I will have to pull the top of the radiator forward to get it pass the water pump. I admit I was a bit concerned but Steve at Bert's assured me that he has installed a number of these with this kind of clearance with no problems. So far he is correct and I also have to admit that the radiator is working great. No overheating, does not leak and works like it should.

[jeffo]

Fred, it sounds like I am doing the same set up as you have. I also have the leakless pump.I was worried about frame and body flex and that shaft
getting any closer. Sounds like you have already tested this and it works.
I was going to call Berts Monday but it sounds like I will be OK

Thanks All

Jeff Owen

[Fred K-OR]

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Originally Posted by jeffo

Fred, it sounds like I am doing the same set up as you have. I also have the leakless pump.I was worried about frame and body flex and that shaft
getting any closer. Sounds like you have already tested this and it works.
I was going to call Berts Monday but it sounds like I will be OK

Thanks All

Jeff Owen

Like I mentioned Jeff, so far so good. I am using a 4 blade fan and had to make sure the blades would clear the overflow pipe and radiator which they finally did. I think the key to the setup is to be sure your bottom bolts that hold the radiator to the frame are in the correct position and you have adjusted your rods from the firewall correctly and they stay tight. My rod nuts came loose once so I made sure they did not do that again. The vibrations get to the nuts.

Good luck

[Fred K-OR]

Jeff, here is a link to a picture I took showing a 1/4 inch bolt with the radiator and end of the shaft. This will give you an idea of where my shaft ended up.

http://photobucket.com/Ford1