What have you done ??

[Lefthander1930]

What modifications, up dates, add ons, or something you did to make it better ??

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Lefthander1930

What modifications, up dates, add ons, or something you did to make it better ??

Don't know about better but safer. Turn signals, LED tail lights, Right hand tail light, third brake light with attention flasher.

[Bob Bidonde]

My 190A is setup for touring, so I have some changes and I will be making more in the coming months as I prep the car for a run to Maine. So far my 190A has: turn signals; LED tail lights; halogen headlights; 12V electrical system with a 60 amp alternator; Flathead Ted's brake floater kit; modern starter drive unit; leakless water pump with modern bearings; stainless modern valves; 5.5:1 cylinder head; lightened flywheel; V8 clutch; Garmin GPS; heated seat covers; safety glass; tool box mounted in front of radiator apron.

Soon to come are: wind wings; electric windshield wiper; 18" V8 wheels; Float-A-Motor front engine mount; running board step plates; front amber fog light.

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by Ruth

Don't know about better but safer. Turn signals, LED tail lights, Right hand tail light, third brake light with attention flasher.

I agree with you 100%.
John

[katy]

Turn signals and sealed beam headlights that were on the truck when I bought it.

[KGBnut]

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I try to resist updates or modifications until I have really made sure I understand the limitations of the original design. I found that when I was new to the Model A that I was too quick to make a change only for it not to solve the problem and then end up changing it back.

• I did put in seat belts. I did a fair amount of research and felt that they really do make a difference in collisions involving these vintage cars.
  
• I switched from the electro-mechanical cutout to a diode. Inside of an original cutout, no one can tell it has been modernized.
  
• I added turn signals. It is a safety thing because modern drivers don't pay attention to hand signals. My set is all period correct.
  
• I got an LED tail light kit. I drive enough at night that I felt the visibility was a necessity. I still only have the one tail light.
  
• Side mirrors. Makes a big difference, and they were available as a period accessory.
  
• Leakless water pump. My pump was a mess and I just got tired of repacking it. I could have replaced it with an original, but at that point I was fed-up.
  
• I put in tubular shocks. Mine had no shocks when I bought it and I just didn't have the money to put in a set of Stipes. I actually really like my Ken Davis shocks.

That is about it. I really do like the maintenance on an original car...points, mechanical brakes, 6 volt generator... it is all part of the experience of driving a vintage car.

[nkaminar]

I put some air in the tires.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I put some air in the tires.

Was it Repro or NOS?

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Was it Repro or NOS?

You mean "city air" or "country air"?

[John Dayhuff]

Not a thing, keep it original and thats less things to go wrong with it. Plus it's the way it was intended to be, I don't want no flashy lights on my car........LOL.

[Bob-A]

I recently corrected a nagging electrical problem: another bad amp gauge!

And

Went back to a stock Zenith-2 carb. I tried running a Simmons carb, but learned how important a tight throttle shaft is.


Bob-A


Skirts are for women and not car fenders!

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by burner31

You mean "city air" or "country air"?

I was going to ask, summer or winter blend ?

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I put some air in the tires.

2021 after-market air??

[Pete]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I put some air in the tires.

I bet it was original.
It could have been NOS.
No way it was repro. You can not create matter unless you have access †o the Hadron collider..

[GerryAllen]

I am not a purist so am Ok with the mods I have done to my car. Changed from generator to an alternator, tube shocks, and an LED light bar in my back window. LED light for safety, really lights up when I apply the brakes. Tube shocks for handling, I drive quite aggressively :~) and alternator for driving at night. High compression head, I drive 5000 miles a year and like to comfortably cruise at 45MPH.
When talking to an older member of our club he reminded me the further we get from stock the harder it will be to trouble shoot.
Gerry, Birch Bay WA

[Pete]

One of my A's has a few mods. It still looks completely stock if I put the original wheels on for a parade. This is a dual purpose car. It can be an all out race car with full cage, 500 hp
and running on alcohol or it can be a docile stock looking parade car putting along at 4 mph.
It can be changed back and forth in about 2 hours.


1930 Model A 2 door.

Set up for A/B engine with adaptor, flathead Ford V8,
or small block Chev.
Skip boxed frame.
T5 transmission with short throw shifter. #202 gear set. Other mods also.
Scatter shield.
8 inch, 4.10, Ford rear end. (A spring over axle)
4 wheel Wilwood disc brakes.
Wilwood pedal assembly.
Left front fender mount spare tire. (Matching wheel)
Holley, race type electric fuel pump and filter.
Fuel shut off valve. Battery cut off switch.
Dual electric windshield wipers with modern type blades.
Etched glass wind wings.
Sealed beam headlights hidden in original A housings.
Dual driving/fog lights. (landing light bulbs)
All wiring in car is teflon covered aircraft type with
circuit breakers.
56 Ford pickup steering.
Dropped tube front axle.(2 inch)
Panhard front and rear.
3 Stewart Warner gauge panel in steering drop. Gas,
oil press, temp.
Electric tachometer.
Self canceling turn signals.
Digital speedometer with timing features.
4 speaker sound system. AM/FM cassette.
Wired for CB or ham radio. 2 way commercial type installed.
High back seats. Original seats for parades.
5 point seat belts in front. 2 point in back.
Original type cloth interior. (LeBaron Bonney)
Black Imron paint.
Centerline wheels. Original wheels for parades.
Hoosier race tires.
16 gallon safety fuel cell with Indy type flip lid.
4 spoke Bell race car steering wheel.
3000 lb. trailer hitch and wire plug.
Trunk and front bumper tool box.
This car won every hill climb it was entered in for 6 years
in a row. (B flathead engine) Class M2.

[old31]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

My 190A is setup for touring, so I have some changes and I will be making more in the coming months as I prep the car for a run to Maine. So far my 190A has: turn signals; LED tail lights; halogen headlights; 12V electrical system with a 60 amp alternator; Flathead Ted's brake floater kit; modern starter drive unit; leakless water pump with modern bearings; stainless modern valves; 5.5:1 cylinder head; lightened flywheel; V8 clutch; Garmin GPS; heated seat covers; safety glass; tool box mounted in front of radiator apron.

Soon to come are: wind wings; electric windshield wiper; 18" V8 wheels; Float-A-Motor front engine mount; running board step plates; front amber fog light.

Oh boy, now I have heard it all. HEATED SEAT COVERS. What would Henry say?

Please Bob don't tell my wife that this exists because she will be all over me to install anything that produces heat.

[old31]

6.1 head, larger intakes, model b carb, bored out intake, v8 clutch, touring cam, block bored .060, balanced crank, fog lights, hidden directional lights, led headlights, led tail lights, F150 trans, Pertronix electronic ignition, electrical distribution block, manifold heater, radial 19" tires, fams, napa fuel filter in the sediment bowl, full-flow oil filtration with 90-degree elbow, phone charging port (6volt).

The only thing a didn't do, and I wish that I did is when I had the engine out was to install a harmonic balancer.

[old31]

Originally Posted by burner31

You mean "city air" or "country air"?

I sure hope that you ran that city air through a filter first before you put that into your tires.

3 points off for unfiltered air. Ask me how I know!

[daren007]

Nothing