Another Amp Meter Question

[Fillinjc]

Hi,

Purchased a 30 amp meter to go with my alternator even though I understand they are of questionable quality. While installing it in the panel the needle fell off so I pried it apart and replaced the needle. It fell off a second time same as before. My question is has anyone used any other aftermarket gauge? Not really caring about it looking original but all other gauges seem way too big for the space. Has anybody found a way to make another gauge fit? You can see how I painted my rusty instrument panel that I am not restoring a show car.

Thanks,
Jerry

[Tom Wesenberg]

You'll have to hunt for a quality ammeter that fits a 1 5/8" hole, or enlarge your panel hole.

[mcorrell]

I found an older made in USA repop on EBay. It works great

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

[Fillinjc]

Thanks! After doing some searching this seems like it might be the best option. Just rework my panel to make it fit. Not just the hole size but maybe need to space it out due to depth also.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stewar...Amps,1099.html

[Charlie Stephens]

Run a jumper wire across the two ammeter terminals so part of the current goes through the ammeter and part through the jumper wire. Your reading will be off but your problem will be solved. Depending upon your wiring diagram you may be able to run the jumper wire at the terminal box on the firewall. Be sure the wire is large enough to handle all of the current in case the ammeter fails. Change the length of the wire to fine tune the ammeter reading if you want to.

Charlie Stephens

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Run a jumper wire across the two ammeter terminals so part of the current goes through the ammeter and part through the jumper wire. Your reading will be off but your problem will be solved.

OK, Help me out. I'm a little slow today. How is running a jumper wire going to help keep the needle from falling off of a cheap gauge again?

Back to the question, No haven't tried a 2 1/16" gauge in a 1 5/8" hole. It is going to be tight. Be aware that S/W gauge is also almost 2" deep (Body plus stud length. Ensure the studs don't rub on the tank. You may want to mount it remotely.

Or... You could run an "idiot light" that comes on when the alternator is not charging. Also lets you know instantaneously if you ever throw a fan belt.

[mcorrell]

The practically new cheap ammeter that my dad installed in my car fell apart internally on the 650 mile truck ride from his place to mine. I had to call a roll-back to get me from the parking lot where I met the truck to my house 2 miles away. It took me hours to figure out why I had no spark.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

OK, Help me out. I'm a little slow today. How is running a jumper wire going to help keep the needle from falling off of a cheap gauge again?

It has nothing to do with the needle falling off of the cheap gauge but lets you run a stock 20 amp gauge with a 30 amp alternator.

Charlie Stephens

[Y-Blockhead]

Haha, See I told you I was slow.

Now if you had written "You could use a good stock 20 amp gauge with a 30 amp alternator by running a jumper wire across the two ammeter terminals" I may have understood. Sorry for the confusion..

[springerpete]

This "cheap" ammeter problem seems strange to me. It is easy to get a quality Model T Ford ammeter from several; different suppliers, probably all built by the same mfr, so why can't it be done for the Model A ?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by springerpete

This "cheap" ammeter problem seems strange to me. It is easy to get a quality Model T Ford ammeter from several; different suppliers, probably all built by the same mfr, so why can't it be done for the Model A ?

I only know of one supplier. You are saying several different ones. Besides John, who else is manufacturing them?

In a nutshell, the manufacturer of the T unit spent a lot of time redesigning the technology of the internal pieces and putting up a large capitol investment to have the tooling made. In today's market, he estimated it would take about 2,000 units sold at $75.00 a piece, -or 3,000 units at $50.00 a piece to break-even on the investment. This does not account for any defects, advertising, distribution, or wholesaling and/or a profit. He is correct when he said that he is just too old to invest in a project where it may take a decade to see a ROI. I don't blame him.

Can you image trying to sell an ammeter at $75 (--or even $50!!) when one can be bought for less than $7 bucks?

[updraught]

http://www.funprojects.com/products/5016.aspx

"Built exactly to Ford dimensional drawings on file this very accurate ammeter is a faithful reproduction of the typical 1919-1925 Model T Ammeter. It features a "steady as a rock" D'Arsonval meter movement designed for rugged applications. It does NOT bounce when the T hits a "bump" in the road. Better than the original"

I think it is due to the size of the Model A one. Can't stuff all the good bits in.

Also the T installation instructions say:

"With a full scale capability of 20 Amps it is designed for the standard Model T electrical system equipped with adjustable 3rd brush type generator. It is NOT recommended for vehicles equipped with alternators since alternators can source current far in excess of 20 amps and your new ammeter will be damaged if so connected and no warranty will apply"

[springerpete]

As I said in my earlier post, several suppliers ( Lang, Snyder, etc) but only 1 manufacturer.

How about Bert's or A & L I guess everyone gets them from the same source. Seems funny that even the high point cars have these.

I have 2 of the Fun Projects ammeters for my T. One is a spare. For my A I had to jury rig it to fit in the dash panel when 2 of the tabs broke off. Oh, well, sure'd be nice to have Fun Projects quality.

[RawhideKid]

Originally Posted by springerpete

As I said in my earlier post, several suppliers ( Lang, Snyder, etc) but only 1 manufacturer.

How about Bert's or A & L I guess everyone gets them from the same source. Seems funny that even the high point cars have these.

I have 2 of the Fun Projects ammeters for my T. One is a spare. For my A I had to jury rig it to fit in the dash panel when 2 of the tabs broke off. Oh, well, sure'd be nice to have Fun Projects quality.

When the tabs break off, I find a spot of Shoo-Goo makes a great attachment, and if you need to remove the meter, it rolls right off!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by springerpete

As I said in my earlier post, several suppliers ( Lang, Snyder, etc) but only 1 manufacturer.

How about Bert's or A & L I guess everyone gets them from the same source. Seems funny that even the high point cars have these.

I have 2 of the Fun Projects ammeters for my T. One is a spare. For my A I had to jury rig it to fit in the dash panel when 2 of the tabs broke off. Oh, well, sure'd be nice to have Fun Projects quality.

I missed that little verbiage, and I do apologize.

Not sure the fine-point guys use the repros because there are still some originals out there.

Check your PMs too.

[phonconn]

Ammeter issue.
I have some rebuilt original ammeters done by Hans Kalinka and were used to write an article in the Model A News. Look me up or search original ammeter as I have posted some of these for sale in the past. Nothing works quite like a Henry Ford built part in a Ford.
Best,
Dan Bixby

[P.S.]

Who says original Model A ammeters are hard to find?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by phonconn

Ammeter issue.
I have some rebuilt original ammeters done by Hans Kalinka and were used to write an article in the Model A News. Look me up or search original ammeter as I have posted some of these for sale in the past. Nothing works quite like a Henry Ford built part in a Ford.
Best,
Dan Bixby

Dan, why don't you bump up each of the items you still have available for sale in the swap meet section. I needed some stuff a few weeks back and when I looked at the dates on your listings, they were so old I just figured you had sold out and had moved on to restoring watches.

[Fillinjc]

So here is my Steward Warner gauge. I opened the instrument panel to 2 1/16" diameter. I fab'd a 1/2" spacer for under the face of the gauge. I can get my finger under the studs when fitting the panel to the tank. It has as much clearance as the back of the ignition switch. I may trim the studs down a bit yet. Seems like a solid gauge although it won't pass any judging but my own.

Thanks,
Jerry