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Old 07-14-2021, 07:09 AM   #1
CatMan1
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Default Bearing Socket Size

If I should get brave enough to attempt to check the bearings and the drain tube to hopefully fix my previously mentioned rear main leak, what size sockets does it take for the main bearings? What about the rod caps? I hear they are unusual. I'm trying to think of everything that I need and get it lined up before I dig in. When I was younger I did rebuild a '55 Chevy straight 6 so I have had 'some' experience even though every engine is different!
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Old 07-14-2021, 10:01 AM   #2
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

21/32" A/B Main Bearing caps
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Old 07-14-2021, 10:16 AM   #3
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

The front two mains take a square 9/16" on the inside and 3/4 on the nuts outside, the rear main just need the 3/4 IIRC.

I think the 21/32 is for the rods, if they are still original nuts.

Just to be complete you will have to remove the valve cover to get to one of the nuts for the center main. So plan for that as well.
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Old 07-14-2021, 10:48 AM   #4
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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The front two mains take a square 9/16" on the inside and 3/4 on the nuts outside, the rear main just need the 3/4 IIRC.

I think the 21/32 is for the rods, if they are still original nuts.

Just to be complete you will have to remove the valve cover to get to one of the nuts for the center main. So plan for that as well.

That sounds like I maybe shouldn't have jumped the gun and changed the exhaust/intake manifold......
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:00 AM   #5
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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That sounds like I maybe shouldn't have jumped the gun and changed the exhaust/intake manifold......
Well at least they will be easy to remove. I think it is possible to remove the valve cover without removing the manifolds.

If you are only looking at the rear main for why it's leaking maybe you don't want to remove the center cap or any of the rest of the bearing caps.

just drop the pan and then the rear main. BTW the oil pump will likely want to come out with the pan. There is a tool to keep in in place...I am sure it has been discussed here before.

Last edited by jwmckenzie; 07-14-2021 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:11 AM   #6
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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Sometimes the rod cap nuts have been changed to 5/8”.
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:13 AM   #7
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

Here a link to the tool offered by Snyders.

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/Produ...e/oil-pump-pan
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:14 AM   #8
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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Originally Posted by jwmckenzie View Post
Here a link to the tool offered by Snyders.

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/Produ...e/oil-pump-pan

Thanks for that! I was trying to find that on Snyder's and couldn't.
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:42 AM   #9
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

The 21/32 needs to be a 6 point socket.
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:47 AM   #10
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

Some A rod nuts are 19/32"
3/4" for the rear main nuts, the bolts are designed to not turn so you don't need to be concerned about what size wrench for them.
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Old 07-14-2021, 12:04 PM   #11
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

With all due respect a Model A is very different from a 55 Chevrolet. I think you should seek out someone with experience. You might well be in over your head!
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Old 07-14-2021, 01:06 PM   #12
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

I wish to be a bit more encouraging. You are asking questions of people that should have the experience to help you. If you want to learn, go for it. Dropping the pan and taking a peek at the main bearings is really no big deal. Keep up with the shims and you will be fine. Everybody with experience out there started with their first motor at some point.

Might be better if you had a master mechanic next door.... but

You are starting at the right point....Asking questions.
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Old 07-14-2021, 02:41 PM   #13
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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With all due respect a Model A is very different from a 55 Chevrolet. I think you should seek out someone with experience. You might well be in over your head!

Can you explain in what ways? (just wanting to learn here) I understand that they should be different, but maybe have some similarities. Unfortunately I don't have anyone experienced near by me. No shops. I don't have much of a choice. I have a couple friends that might be able to help, but they are pretty busy.
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Old 07-14-2021, 02:52 PM   #14
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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Can you explain in what ways? (just wanting to learn here) I understand that they should be different, but maybe have some similarities. Unfortunately I don't have anyone experienced near by me. No shops. I don't have much of a choice. I have a couple friends that might be able to help, but they are pretty busy.
Is there not other Model A Fords in the area? Who does their repairs?
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Old 07-14-2021, 02:57 PM   #15
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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Is there not other Model A Fords in the area? Who does their repairs?

The couple of friends I was referring to are in my area. One of them owns and A and works on it, but is busy. (I could wait, I know) Outside of that I know of no one else.
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Old 07-14-2021, 03:59 PM   #16
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

CatMan,

do not despair, these are rudimentary mechanical assemblies. After all, when new there wasn't necessarily an ASE program to train mechanics.

You have to look at the physics, when you remove the rear main cap the crank will droop.
In effect you have a shaft supported by the center main with a 70-80 lb assembly hanging off the end. You can within reason use a small jack to help support the rear of the crank and make the measurement easier to calculate shims. No rocket science here.
I took one motor apart, it was not leaking, old joke is when they quit leaking there is no oil. The rear main cap had the shims JB Welded in, yes epoxy. A bit extreme but it worked.

You can do this and just like a Model "A", go slow and think, shade trees are for more than just working.

John
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:59 PM   #17
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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Originally Posted by jwmckenzie View Post
Here a link to the tool offered by Snyders.

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/Produ...e/oil-pump-pan

That’s the tool I purchased, and it’s awkward to store in my toolbox. It seems the Bratton’s tool would be easier to store.

https://www.brattons.com/oil-pump-holder-tool.html


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Old 07-15-2021, 10:25 AM   #18
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

Quote:
Originally Posted by CatMan1 View Post
Can you explain in what ways? (just wanting to learn here) I understand that they should be different, but maybe have some similarities. Unfortunately I don't have anyone experienced near by me. No shops. I don't have much of a choice. I have a couple friends that might be able to help, but they are pretty busy.
The 2 main differences are:

1. the 55 has a full pressure oiling system, the model A has a splash system.
2. the 55 has replaceable inserts on the rods and main bearings, the model A has babbitted bearings.

HTH, Ken
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Old 07-16-2021, 06:53 AM   #19
CatMan1
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Default Re: Bearing Socket Size

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The 2 main differences are:

1. the 55 has a full pressure oiling system, the model A has a splash system.
2. the 55 has replaceable inserts on the rods and main bearings, the model A has babbitted bearings.

HTH, Ken

Those are things I understand. I've also had '46-'50 Chevy cars. They were a little closer to the Model A in that regard. I think my biggest unknown is going to be what shape the babbitt is in. If that's ok then I might get by with this.
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Old 07-16-2021, 09:33 AM   #20
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Those are things I understand. I've also had '46-'50 Chevy cars. They were a little closer to the Model A in that regard. I think my biggest unknown is going to be what shape the babbitt is in. If that's ok then I might get by with this.
To Katy's point, the stock Model A is Babbitt and shims.
Many thought have been converted to inserts and full pressure oiling.
Many have been also "modified" with partial attempts.
Many have been rebuilt by production line type shops and some of the work is marginal.
If you happen to have one done by a reputable shop, you will know.

John
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