Priming & painting a 35-40 frame

[Roadster62]

If all goes well I should have my frame sandblasted next month, any tips on getting full coverage of primer and paint inside the original boxing plates? This is my first 35-40 frame. Thanks. Bob

[19Fordy]

Use a plastic spray bottle to get paint into all those tight fitting plates,
corners where frame members meet. Wipe off any drips,if desired.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

This may not be for restoration purists but I used Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer then either satin or gloss black. I used spray cans for the hard to reach areas like where the X meets the frame rails, and did not spare the paint, and brushed the rest if the areas. Same again with the black paint. For all of the visible areas say in the engine compartment I sanded the surfaces to get them smooth and top/final coated them by spraying. My old black 40 coupe was done this way, my old Gibbon bodied 39 cabriolet, my avatar, and others. More recently I have used KBS Coatings and you can look up their properties on line. Very nice stuff but it does have its own peculiarities and is not quite the same as paint. Either way you will have a very durable coating to last a very long time.

[TJ]

I've used POR-15 and brushed it on. When it dries it looks like it was sprayed. For the real tough spots you can use a rattle can after the POR-15 has dried. I forgot to add you can stand the frame on end and the POR-15 will run into the crevices and seal off any residual rust.

[RalphM]

As these frames are subject to rust between the two rails, does anyone disassemble their frame, clean/ paint, then re- rivet back together?

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by RalphM

As these frames are subject to rust between the two rails, does anyone disassemble their frame, clean/ paint, then re- rivet back together?

Yep, that is the only way to clean up the space between the rails as far as I know. At least that is what I have done.

[alanwoodieman]

my frame has been painted for over 25 years with rustoleum satin black, first sandblasted, then primed with red restoleum primer thinned out with lacquer thinner, it really soaks into the crevises. do not use paint thinner, use an enamel reducer for the satin black. my formula for black was one quart flat, 4 qts gloss--used this before satin was widely available. still holding up good, a lot of mile on the wagon!

[Kube]

I adjust the nozzle of my gun so the "spray" is less a mist and more of a "squirt". Once those crevasses are covered nicely, I readjust to a proper mist.

If you are seeking a proper (authentic) restoration, the frames were gloss black.

[ford nut]

Originally Posted by RalphM

As these frames are subject to rust between the two rails, does anyone disassemble their frame, clean/ paint, then re- rivet back together?

that sounds like a nightmare project

[FlatheadTed]

Cant say I have done this but what about tapeing the running board holes up or use rubber plugs ,create a dam at the ends with bondo with a release agent. then stand the frame on edge and swill a gallon or so of black paint back and forth, lay a sheet of plastic down first Ted

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by ford nut

that sounds like a nightmare project

Not really, just have to drill all of the rivets out.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by RalphM

As these frames are subject to rust between the two rails, does anyone disassemble their frame, clean/ paint, then re- rivet back together?

There have been two to date that I could not replace so I had to disassemble them partially. It really isn't as bad as it may seem to many folks.

[Fourdy]

I rented a big sandblaster and went to work. I feel it was worth the effort.

Fourdy

[ford nut]

Originally Posted by Fourdy

I rented a big sandblaster and went to work. I feel it was worth the effort.

Fourdy

holly cow!

[19Fordy]

My hat is off to those of you who are "rivet removers".

[ford nut]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

My hat is off to those of you who are "rivet removers".

boy you got that right. maybe different tools, but this is usually goes for me. . . (boy, that came out horrible)

[JSeery]

No torches involved in any I have done. You drill the rivet heads off and they punch out. Not sure why it is believe to be that big a deal. I wouldn't to do in on a fairly rust free frame, but on a frame that has been out in the open for some time it may need to be cleaned between the rails (if removing the rust is a concern).

[Newc]

Hi; I had two frames dipped at $450 each. After neutralizing the Co. dipped the frames in 'Osfo', a corrosion preventer/converter. Anyway very nice expensive result. Newc

[RalphM]

I have done this to other frames, the Rivet to do drill out pretty easy. Of course on a 35 to 40 frame I would put it in a frame jig before and after to ensure it stays straight.

[Fourdy]

I can't believe how many hours I spent measuring, re-measuring, diagonals, leveling, re-level then re-measure, on and on. It was like a giant puzzle and I really did enjoy the challenge.

Fourdy