1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[cas3]

Great story here, nice truck, I am jealous. Now, on the horn subject, a motor drive AHOOGA horn when run on 12 volts spins up the rpm so fast that you really do not have the drawn out ah-oo-ga sound any more. I doubt you would burn up the motor since it is just short blasts, but really its not the sound we wish for. An easy cheat like a ballast resistor doesnt work as they heat too slowly. Best thing I have used is a Dodge horn from the mid 20's when Dodge was 12 volts for a while. they show up on ebay occasionally. Next best is any 6 volt motor drive horn, and you rewire the windings with exactly 1/2 the gauge wire it currently has, with exactly twice the number of windings it currently has, and you now have a 12 volt horn, and the armature will work fine. Keep up the good work !

[sugarmaker]

Tinker,
Yea chopped tops are probably not in my future either. At 6-1, its a challenge to get in the standard cab 32 truck.
May I ask about your flooring coating in your shop? I would have liked something like that. May be too late now as I have oil spots all over.

I dont think the distributor cap for the B and the A are the same?? I could be wrong. I think Jim B. from Bugs & Tugs, brought over a "A" type the other day.

Valves should be ok as they are brand spanky new, with new one piece guides, and adjustable tappets. Also block had valve seats finished and I lapped in the valves.

I played with stuff in the shop today. Really nice to walk in there to be greeted by a comfy 65 deg F temp. It was about 50 last night.
Cleaned the carb on the Allis F40 forklift. Amazing it now runs!! Moved some wood around to allow access to the scaffolding needed to finish the ceiling lights.

On the 32, pulled the plugs and cleaned them to be ready for the new electrical components. Making a new coil wire to get away from the cap. I could see it arcing from cap to the coil wire at times.
Drained the oil and added 4.5 quarts of fresh. Wanted to make sure there was no water in the pan.
Drained the radiator and added 50/50 antifreeze/water mix. Yea we have cold weather here and this old block has been frozen one too many times.

Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

cas3,
Humm? The horn saga continues. Not sure I have the skills to rewire the horn. But you never know. Thanks for the suggestions.
Dont be jealous! Lots of good stuff that everyone has on the Ford Barn. I just take a lot of pictures and talk a lot about this ragged old truck like a new baby in the family, only worse!
cas= first three letter of my last name also. Coincidence? I dont think so!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


Originally the distributor plastic housings of the A and B were different, but only slightly so as it pertained only to the opening on the side for the manual spark advance arm on a Model A distributor. Eventually Ford only supplied the B version for service and it had to be slightly modified to fit on the A distributors. The plastic rotor inside and the top plastic cap are the same for both types of distributors.

[cas3]

sugarmaker, yes, those are my initials. The main reason I mention rewiring is brand X horns can be found pretty cheap. However, for your nice 32 you may be leaning towards a real 32 boat tail horn, not gonna be cheap, and I think rewiring would not kill the value. The field windings are usually easy to get at, just count the windings, solder each end, not a big deal. There is probably a proper resistor for doing a voltage drop like this, I am unaware of one , but a search in the model A section might bring up some more idea's. One thing I would stay away from is the new chinese 12 volt ahooga horns, they dont sound right, and well, they're from china !

[sugarmaker]

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cas3,
I am not a expert or even close, on much 32 stuff! But the horn I have is the real deal!
We are not going to mess it up! I have many things to consider on the truck project before I get to these items such as the horn, but input is always valuable and can plant the seeds for continued project improvements.
Just hoping It can run better and stop better! Some additional testing this week if the weather is good.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Ford barn folks,
I did get some foam gasket cut for the headlight as a very temporary fix just to be able to move the truck around and not have the glass vibrating around.
Also made a battery hold down strap.
In the spare wheel well there was a bump in there like the front right wheel had bumped it. I brought this back to the shape I believe it was supposed to be at and re mounted the spare 7.00-20. had several inches more room when the passengers door is open. I think gas could be added while spare is in place now.
Also made a new coil wire to get it away from the distributor body.
Come to think of it the distributor body was arcing to the coil wire. That should be insulated and not do that! Humm? Maybe another indicator that this body is suspect. Hope to see the brown truck show up with parts tomorrow!
Hope things are good in Ford Barn land! Thanks for checking on me!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,


Originally the distributor plastic housings of the A and B were different, but only slightly so as it pertained only to the opening on the side for the manual spark advance arm on a Model A distributor. Eventually Ford only supplied the B version for service and it had to be slightly modified to fit on the A distributors. The plastic rotor inside and the top plastic cap are the same for both types of distributors.

David,
Thank you, guess I did not have a "A" distributor body to try. for some reason I had in my head they were different. Will let you know for sure.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folk,
Some news: well my hopes were somewhat dashed as the new distributor body did not change the rough running "B" engine a bit. So I am now working on intake manifold leak issues. Ordered a set of copper gaskets from Sndyer's. They should arrive Thursday. In the mean time I am going to do some work to see if I can make a positive change in that area of the engine. Right or wrong we try to continue to fall forward!. Removed and cleaned manifold. Checked and tuned for flatness. Applied permatex copper sealer, and after a hour of finger tight, retorqued the manifold to 30 ft lbs. Need to wait 24 hours to test. Also found that two of the studs (centers) were bottoming out early, and thus could have agravated this possible leaky intake. Prior to tear down, I sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake when it was running and it was being sucked in, changing the engine sound.
Will see what tomorrow brings.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Some update pics:
Did ok making a simple battery hold down:


New cap and straps:


The paper type gasket just fell to pieces when I removed the manifolds:


Cleaned up both surfaces and applied the copper sealer:






I have since this picture painted the back of the headlight buckets flat black. JUst to much shiny paint glare!


Paint is not dry here:


My concept of organizing is to put the pile of tools in smaller compartments, still in piles! I did find my work table and actually used it to work on the manifold. So nice to have that back! Thanks to Mike for the nice Craftsman tool chest!


My first Craftsman tool box is going to go in the bed to carry some Ford tools. Its 50 years old and looks it too:






Regards
Chris

[Tinker]

Not my garage. A friends. Believe it was "u-coat it" in the picture. Or at one time it did have U-coat it, It changes from time to time over the years.


https://ucoatit.com/

[sugarmaker]

Tinker,
Thanks on the link to the floor coating system. Probably out of my price range if they mention Jay Leno in there add! Just sayin!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Question: The vacuum line running off the intake manifold to the windshield wiper is not operational at the time. Haven't checked it but it is probably a open line at the cab roof. The old rubber hose from the line to the wiper motor is long gone. Could this also be providing a path for air to get into the intake and cause rough running? I could just plug this port temporarily.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


Just plug it; it may not cure all of the ills, but it will help.


You may change your mind about the gloss on the headlamp shells once you start driving the truck as a unique characteristic of '32s (and Model As) is that the headlamp buckets serve as big handy convex rear view mirrors. Sure, the painted ones not nearly as well as those of stainless steel, but every little bit of rearward vision contributes to safe driving.

[34 FORD HOTROD KID]

Hey Chris, I like your 32 dump truck and just thought I would chime in as I'm a lover of big trucks also I have a 34 Ford with the 12ft, flatbed that I got running last year just in time to have the truck play a part in a movie called Mayberry Man I drove the truck around during the festival/parade with a 5 piece bluegrass band playing in the bed like in the original show with the darlings my wife and I had a blast. I also have a 34 Ford short flat bed truck and a 34 Ford dump truck that I haven't started on either of them yet. I also have a 33 Ford 4 door sedan that is a hotrod with all the creature comforts that is a blast to drive and haul the grandkids around. But I love my trucks just thought I would share that good luck with yours buddy and have fun! Ken

[GB SISSON]

I am a firm believer in Remflex manifold gaskets. They are made from solid graphite. good to something like 3000 degrees, and best of all they fill voids and gaps like crazy because they compress and conform. I have them in my AA doodlebug, my '79 landcruiser, and everything else around here. Maybe someone can post a link Thanks for the great progress report!!!

[sugarmaker]

David, Ken, GB, folks,
Will plug the vacuum port to the wiper motor. The headlight buckets are painted flat black and I have started the patina process. Every time I go by I scruff them a little. I think they blend in a little better.
Ken you have a very nice group of trucks to keep you busy! Pictures?
GB, always good to know there is a product out there that might solve a problem!
Will try to start this truck again tonight. I did swap out a new distributor cam gear on the distributor and the screw with the oil hole in it. Will see if it's timed right now!
Have added the timing indicator between the timing cover and the back of the crank pulley.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Barners,
Well I did go for a couple short rides, and started the engine several times. Has a tendency to stall when braking. Just start it back up while rolling. seams to run a tad better. Maybe I am expecting too much or need someone that knows way more about these to listen and or check things.
Just some random 32 "baby" photos:










Nice to get it out and drive a little even though it was only a 1/2 mile. With out lights I dont want to go much farther than than this in the evening.


I have started initial steps on the lights and turn signals. Which means I haven't done too much except some ideas:
My new old turn signals from John K. Look very nice and the lens' are in great shape.




Thinking I should consider using these 70 year old red lights for additional visibility?


These lights may end up being a winter project. I really should be working on a bunch of other things!

The brakes work way better I would say maybe 70-80% now?? Again I am not a great judge of these yet. Still leaking some oil and water (rad over fill?), Probably just Ford things!
Hope things are good out there in Ford Land!
Regards,
Chris

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Folks,
Question: The vacuum line running off the intake manifold to the windshield wiper is not operational at the time. Haven't checked it but it is probably a open line at the cab roof. The old rubber hose from the line to the wiper motor is long gone. Could this also be providing a path for air to get into the intake and cause rough running? I could just plug this port temporarily.
Regards,
Chris

Chris,
Little that I know about mechanics I do know (from youthful experience) that an open vacuum line will cause rough running. As David G suggests plug it and see what happens. Your project has been fascinating. Keep at it!

[sugarmaker]

tomcarman,
Those tidbits of information we capture as a young person can sometimes be very useful!
i am taking that to heart and going to do some additional testing to see if I have a leak in the intake manifold system somewhere.
I also remember as a young boy with my first lawn mower engine. It would not run. It had a crack in the cast potmetal intake. My grandfather took me, and the part, to a old man and he somehow welded it. I then had my first engine to play with, and it did start and run. Been hooked on these things ever since!

My Dad always said, they need fuel, spark, and compression, they should run. Maybe not well but should run. I think him and my mom may have sent this truck to me to keep me out of trouble!

Sure glad your enjoing the ride along the way in the truck too! That's my goal. Meet some new friends, learn, and maybe help someone along the way too.

Regards,
Chris