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11-04-2016, 10:28 PM | #1 |
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early 28 brake light swtich
Anybody have photos of the early 28 brake light switch (with out the ribs on the legs)? I'm especially looking for the position of the tabs that hold the cover in place. or if you have one you'd sell...
Tia Jim |
11-04-2016, 10:47 PM | #2 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Pulled these from my file, unfortunately am unable to give credit to the source, but good shot of tabs.
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1928 Roadster (CA67) 1931 Deluxe Coupe RHD 1931 Victoria RHD Model A's don't leak oil they just mark their territory. |
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11-04-2016, 11:26 PM | #3 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Perfect! thanks bick.
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11-05-2016, 01:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Bick, those were my pictures. I recognize the hideous pink towel! Jim, if you need any additional shots, circle back to me. You may remember this switch as one of the two I bought off of EBay several years ago and was criticized on one of the sites for paying what I did for them!
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11-05-2016, 01:39 PM | #5 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Yeah I remember, I said I had two for sale for less than you paid for one and couldn't sell them. that was years before. now I wish I could find one. Seems you got a steal for whatever price you paid. I'm trying to develop a plan on how to remove the ribs, and move the tabs on a later one, and still have a functional switch. lot easier to buy.
I also remember walking past sheet metal and scoffing at the price in the 70's...oh to find those prices again |
11-05-2016, 03:42 PM | #6 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
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1928 Roadster (CA67) 1931 Deluxe Coupe RHD 1931 Victoria RHD Model A's don't leak oil they just mark their territory. |
11-17-2016, 09:24 PM | #7 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
WORD OF CAUTION !!!
Be sure you have a fuse inline as this type of switch CAN short out IF you pull the rod into the housing. It takes your tongue in the right place and adjusting just so to get the pedal travel to switch movement correct. I recommend using a spring between the pedal clevis pin and the switch to keep from pulling the switch rod too far. I also think there should be a fuse inline with both wires to keep from frying things.
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New owner of '28 Tudor Previously owned; '30 Sport Coupe '28 left brake ccPickup '31 SW Town Sedan '28 AA Stake Bed '30 Cabriolet '42 Super Deluxe 4door Sedan "If it don't fit, get a bigger hammer. If it breaks...... ya needed a new one anyway!!" Doing a good job here is like wetting your pants in a dark suit. It gives you a warm feeling, but nobody notices. Never pass up a bathroom Never neglect an erection Never trust a fart |
11-17-2016, 09:27 PM | #8 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Still looking...
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12-17-2016, 07:13 PM | #9 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
I had a question from a fellow member re:the early brake light switch I'm looking for, so I bumped this to the top
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12-17-2016, 07:42 PM | #10 |
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Location: freeport il
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Jim if I understand the difference the later ones have ribs on mounting legs? I think there's to much greese on ours tell! My spare has the I think correct link ours is just wire but it does work!
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12-17-2016, 07:58 PM | #11 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Here's a little better pic our tank date is 6-21-28 vin a216238 what month is yours Jim?
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12-17-2016, 08:04 PM | #12 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
I'm building to April standards. that us the later switch. thanks for checking
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12-18-2016, 01:42 PM | #13 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Just to add detail to Mr. Karr's photos.
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12-31-2016, 01:59 PM | #14 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Hi all. I tried to install an LED brake light bar today thinking it could't be that tough. I even got a new brake light switch that looks like the photos above. I have a 1929 Tudor sedan.
Anyway, the switch that was in theredid not look quite like these but I attached wires to the positive and then to a ground. Nothing. I thought I may have gotten them wrong so I switched and the brake light came on constantly. So then, I think I messed up. I pulled the little pin part of the switch back towards the back of the car to see if it would do anything and it looks like I may have shorted it as nothing wants to come on at all now. Crap! I am charging the battery now as it was pretty low but I'm scared I did something really bad. Any thoughts? Thanks |
12-31-2016, 08:09 PM | #15 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
I'm not understanding exactly what you did, so I'll just comment on the path for the original brake light. First of all remember that the Model A has + ground, so hopefully your LED has two wires, so you can ground the + wire, then run power to the negative wire.
Now for the brake switch, be sure neither terminal makes contact to the switch body whether the switch is off or pulled on. Your wire harness should have two green wires going to the brake switch, and it doesn't matter which one goes to which terminal. One green wire has power at all times, then feeds it to the other green brake light wire when the switch is pulled on. |
12-31-2016, 08:34 PM | #16 | |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Quote:
That way, when you apply the brake the switch energizes the LED light along with the brake light. Be very careful with the adjustment of the switch to pedal, if depressing the pedal pulls the rod through the back hole in the switch, it WILL short out and burn up the brake light wiring and possibly the rest of the harness to the headlight switch if you don't have a fuse somewhere between the wiring and the battery. |
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12-31-2016, 08:55 PM | #17 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
ughh, well that's what I'm worried has happened. I think I hooked it up in reverse and when I pulled the rod through I saw a tiny spark and then nothing on the car would come on, no lights, nothin. Super. The frustration is that the reason I wanted to do this was that my brake lights weren't lighting in the first place and I thought this might be a better route.
So what is the plan now? After the battery is fully charged, I can try and figure out what if anything has power with the voltmeter? Forgive the super basic question but, are there no fuses at all on a Model A? Seems like it's so well designed in other ways. I would really like to get it started and then bring it over to someone who knows more than I at a classic car shop but I fear there may be a tow truck in my future. |
12-31-2016, 09:17 PM | #18 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Providing the car is all original, there are NO fuses at all within the wiring.
Where are you at? Now, IF the previous owner took the time and money, there could be one mounted on the starter switch, if not, you toasted the wire from the headlight switch to the brake light switch. Cross your fingers that if the latter happened, it was only one wire toasted and not the whole bundle to the headlight switch. |
12-31-2016, 09:47 PM | #19 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
I'm in Clearwater Florida. The car was converted to 12V so I can pray that he also put in a fuse. Will it be obvious when I look at the starter? Is it an in line fuse I can just switch out?
If I did fry the whole bundle, can I still start the car if the battery is good? I wish there was a Model A community here to help me learn but I just found a shop nearby today that does work on Brass Era cars and others so maybe I need to make some friends over there I still think it's odd that they didn't put in fuses, but I'll have to let that go. Happy New Year! |
12-31-2016, 09:52 PM | #20 |
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Re: early 28 brake light swtich
Yes, if there is a fuse on the starter it will be obvious.
Whether or not you will be able to start it or not depends on how it was rewired to 12v. Good Luck. PS, if you are in doubt, you can always ask here but please, take pictures so a clearer answer can be given. |
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