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12-03-2011, 01:18 AM | #21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northport, NY
Posts: 1,597
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
I have voted for the 15W-40 Rotella, figuring that the ZDDP which has been around for 75 years in our oil kept engines running for those years since the mid 1930s and the 15 wt at zero C is around what Henry suggested for winter, and the 40 viscositi number at 100 C is around what Henry sugggested for summer use.
The SM grade oils are lacking in the ZDDP zinc additive. |
12-03-2011, 09:05 AM | #22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 2,950
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
Quote
>Zinc is only need for engines with very stiff valve springs, not what you find in the A< |
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12-03-2011, 10:18 AM | #23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 2,950
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
Here is an article from a Model A newsletter
.. Tech tip.... ( editors note: Much has been written on the subject of ZDDP in motor oil. The removal of ZDDP from oil has been deemed responsible for cam damage in flat tappet engines, especially those with high valve spring pressure. Here is some more “borrowed” from the Shade Tree A’s. Food for thought....fg) MOTOR OIL REVISITED Jim McPherson Shade Tree A’s News, Volume 39, No. 11, November, Additional information is available on the value of ZDDP (zinc) in motor oils, this time from an engine rebuilder. In engines with a flat tappet cam-shaft, like our Model A, camshafts can be ruined in the first few minutes of operation. They need maximum lubrication during this time while the lifters mate to the cam. During break-in, the engine must be run between 1800 to 2400 RPM for 20 to 30 minutes. Do not let the engine idle any what-so-ever during this time. This keeps the oil splashed onto the cam lobes. Change the engine RPM frequently. It is important for the engine to start as soon as possible. Turning the engine by hand, or excessive starter spinning will result in wiping the assembly lube from the cam lobes. While this in-formation is general, and not specific for our Model A engines, it is good advice for the initial starting and break-in of our engines. It is very important to use a motor oil or additive for this Tech Tip.that contains ZDDP. The current "SM" oils do not contain sufficient amounts of ZDDP (600-800 PPM) to protect your rebuilt engine, especially during break-in. Do not use oils with less than 0.14% (1400 PPM) ZDDP, and 0.16% is best. Do not use a synthetic oil for break-in, even if it con-tains ZDDP. Rotella, other diesel oils and Val-voline VR1 Racing oil are better than "S" rated car oils, but do not contain 0.14% ZDDP. Do not use "SA" through "SE" rated oils. We have discussed it and many of you are using Classic Car Motor Oil in your Model A. It is produced by the Indiana Region of the Classic Car Club of America and D-A Lubricant Co. to contain the optimum amount of ZDDP and oil additives for our engines. The information presented here is from Carolina Ma-chine Engines in Johnston, SC, which now sells correct oils and additives for break-in and everyday use and Classic Car Motor Oil. THANKS to Don Cerefin for supplying the information |
12-03-2011, 10:58 PM | #24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 1,128
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
The Texico Chart is interesting. Notice that they call for 50W above 70 degree's F.
The owners manual didn't call for 50 W. Anyone know the reason for the difference ? Marc |
12-03-2011, 11:11 PM | #25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 104
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
Thanks for the replies guys, I think I'll try Castrol GTX 20w50.
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12-04-2011, 08:35 AM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 107
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
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12-04-2011, 09:05 AM | #27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 2,950
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
Is someone using Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils!
.. |
12-04-2011, 03:47 PM | #28 |
Senior Member
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Re: Engine Oil/Brand?
Like I said as long as the oil is the slippery kind it will work fine in the Model A engine.
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