Front Engine Mount Springs

[Dave1931Pickup]

I know that the subject of the front engine mount springs has been discussed in many posts. I have given up on getting springs from any of the vendors since it appears that none of them have the correct ones. I have been searching the web and have found a spring that is almost correct to the original ford drawing. It has an I.D. of .507 with a compressed length of .83 instead of .88 and a load rating of 60 lbs. I don't know what Henry did for finish but this one is zinc plated The only major difference is the free length is only 1.5 instead of 1.62. What are every ones thoughts on it being a little short in the non compressed length.
Another drawback is that I have to buy $40.00 worth of a $3.18 spring to meet a minimum for shipping. Anyone want to buy two springs from me?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Most of my parts come from A&L, Bert's, Bratton's, and Snyder's, so I don't recall which one I bought the springs from, but they worked perfectly. Tighten the bottom spring just enough to pull the front down so the cranking handle slips into place. Remember the rear mount bolts are loose until the front is correct.

[700rpm]

Dave, I am curious why you didn’t go directly to one of the suppliers that Tom mentioned, rather than searching the web at random?

[Dave1931Pickup]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Dave, I am curious why you didn’t go directly to one of the suppliers that Tom mentioned, rather than searching the web at random?

I have purchased front engine mount springs from Snyders, Brattons and Sacramento Vintage Ford. All three suppliers sold springs that would not compress beyond 1" which makes the engine sit to high not allowing the crank to line up correctly with the crank nut.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Might have to try Bert's for original springs then. Bert's 1-800-321-1931

[redmodelt]

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Shorten the spring or maybe look for alignment issues else were. Are the rear engine mounts sagging? Is the front cross member bent? If you are using the brass guide bushing, is it sitting down in the hole flat? Has someone in the past removed material from the bottom of the crank guide to get things to line up?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Does it have a plate welded in as a patch?

[SeaSlugs]

My kit from snyders worked perfectly. Just tightened the nut on the bottom to slip the cotter pin in...crank lines up dead center.

If your frame is sagging you will have alignment issues or if anything is bent or welded funky.

Show us a pic of your front crossmember. Also could have an old badly formed repo front mount as well.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Dave1931Pickup

I have purchased front engine mount springs from Snyders, Brattons and Sacramento Vintage Ford. All three suppliers sold springs that would not compress beyond 1" which makes the engine sit to high not allowing the crank to line up correctly with the crank nut.

The spring kits come with three springs, two long ones that go on either side at the top, and one short one that goes in the middle on the bottom. Might you have tried to use one of the upper springs on the lower part of the yoke?

[Fullraceflathead]

I ordered mine from Snyder's last year and it fit perfect.
The Hand Crank fits perfect into the Hand Crank Hole and Crankshaft Nut.

[redmodelt]

The three springs in the kit; the two long ones are 1 5/8" and the short one is 7/8" free length. If you compress the long one all the way it is about 1 to 1 1/8". If you are trying to compress the long springs down to 1 inch, you have other issues that need to be looked into as I suggested above.
Do you have float-a-motors installed? Bent frame?

[CWPASADENA]

I had the wrong springs when I restored my Tudor.

I got a hold of Bert's and they had the correct springs. They worked great.

Bert's also had the correct spring for the cam plunger on the front of the engine.

My experience,

Chris W.

[MickeyT]

Yes, I'm in for a set.

[SteveB31]

Like many repro parts, their are currently 5 companies making different front engine mounting springs. Just because you got the wrong ones, doesn’t mean all of them are wrong. The ones we sell are made by A&L, and black in color, and are made to the Ford blueprint.

Steve @ Bert’s

[Dave1931Pickup]

Originally Posted by SteveB31

Like many repro parts, their are currently 5 companies making different front engine mounting springs. Just because you got the wrong ones, doesn’t mean all of them are wrong. The ones we sell are made by A&L, and black in color, and are made to the Ford blueprint.

Steve @ Bert’s

Thanks Steve. Too late to call and order today. I will call tomorrow.
Dave

[Purdy Swoft]

Sometimes removing the center brass bushing will help. The brass bushing was discontinued fairly early on , I forget the month and date but I usually don'y use it .

[redmodelt]

RE; I have purchased front engine mount springs from Snyders, Brattons and Sacramento Vintage Ford. All three suppliers sold springs that would not compress beyond 1" which makes the engine sit to high not allowing the crank to line up correctly with the crank nut.

What difference will it make if he orders different springs. Sounds like he is trying to crush the longer outer springs below the normal range.

Maybe posting of a photo of the springs installed might help point to something and also photo of the springs being using. There have been a number of suggestions and questions and none seem to be addressed.

If you have the brass bushing installed do you now have it on the top or underneath where it should be?

[Dave1931Pickup]

Originally Posted by Dave1931Pickup

I know that the subject of the front engine mount springs has been discussed in many posts. I have given up on getting springs from any of the vendors since it appears that none of them have the correct ones. I have been searching the web and have found a spring that is almost correct to the original ford drawing. It has an I.D. of .507 with a compressed length of .83 instead of .88 and a load rating of 60 lbs. I don't know what Henry did for finish but this one is zinc plated The only major difference is the free length is only 1.5 instead of 1.62. What are every ones thoughts on it being a little short in the non compressed length.
Another drawback is that I have to buy $40.00 worth of a $3.18 spring to meet a minimum for shipping. Anyone want to buy two springs from me?

Thanks to everyone who replied with suggestions. I had to abandon this post after my wife tore her Achilles Tendon off of her heal and needed surgery. She is home now and doing well. No load bearing weight on her foot for eight weeks which is a problem living in a three story house.

After reading Steve's post about the springs they sell at Bert's I ordered a set. They truly are made to the original Ford specs. Attached is a picture comparing Bert's springs to another vendors springs. Bert's are the black ones. Below is a comparison of the two sets.

Bert's Zinc Plated Ones
Non Compressed Height 1.65" 1.60"
Fully Compressed Height .85" .97"
Wire Diameter .102" .112"
Compression Weight at 1.125" / 60 Lbs. 95 Lbs.

The biggest difference is the compresssion weight. The additional 35 Lbs times two is 70 pounds of force pushing up on the front of the engine causing it to sit to high in relation to the crank guide.

After installing the new springs the engine is sitting at the correct height and all is right with my world again. Now if my wife can survive my cooking everything will be great. Thanks to everyone, Dave

[Dave1931Pickup]

My comparison chart didn't print the way I had it laid out. The first set of numbers are Bert's springs. The second set are the Zinc plated ones. Also the wrong Ford drawing was imported and I don't know how to fix it.

[700rpm]

Thanks for the update. Bert’s is a good place.

You can edit your post by using the “go advanced” button after selecting “edit”.

Sorry to hear about your wife. Tell her good luck from us.