overheat over 45

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Peyton,

Handy container for carrying extra Model A radiator water:

1. Metal cans may rust inside and/or outside & can get dented.

2. Milk cartons are guaranteed to leak whether or not your dog barks at it.

3. Glass containers can break, especially if dropped -- broken glass always dangerous everywhere.

4. One (1) liter plastic Coke bottles -- really not too strong with rough handling .... round bottoms allow tip over, & (1) liter not enough when Model A water or coolant is needed.

5. How about trying a very sturdy durable "see-through" plastic container:

a. Holds (3) liters.

b. Has flat bottom & more difficult to tip over.

c. Has very neat handle which makes it easy to pour water or coolant in radiator.

d. Has cap that appears never to leak if turned sideways.

e. Only problem is having to drink the contents prior to filling it with water or coolant.

f. Brand: Ocean Spray -- 100% Juice, Cranberry or Cranberry/Grape or whatever -- never needed to add radiator water or coolant "yet" while driving; however, gives one peace of mind when traveling back roads with only so few gas stations spaced far apart.

Hope this can help someone someday.

[James Rogers]

If you are going to carry extra water, why not use a plastic gas jug that is clearly marked WATER. When new they are just like a plastic tumbler and can be used like this and you can even drink the water. Also, the manufacturer has to make it drip proof.

[Bruce Adams]

I would sugggest you purchase an infra red thermometer at Harbor Freight for $30 and "SHOOT" the radiator over nine locations to reveal any relatively COOL SPOTS which will show you clearly your coolant's flow through the tubes.
Most of us fill to BELOW the baffle, just above the tubes since at high water pump (Engine) speeds, more coolant is pumped BACK into the radiator than into the engine, causing an overflow, but not an over heating condition.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Peyton, Did you try the NAIL?
Bill W.

[tbirdtbird]

An Arizona Iced Tea jug works well....very rugged, flat bottom, packs easier since it is oblong, not round

[ford3]

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if you dont have an infared heat gun, you can improvise by putting your hand on the out side top of rad after a 20 min run, it should be so hot you cant leave your hand there, check both sides and the middle of rad, now go down half way, rad should still be hot but not as hot of the top, now at the bottom the rad should be good and warm, but not so it burns your hand, if rad is hot at the top and cool at the bottom you rad cores are plugged, time to have it rodded out, the heat in the rad should be the same across the rad

[sethkestenbaum]

I had a similar experience - which may not be exactly the same. Up to 45 MPH, my car was fine. Above that I lost coolant at an alarming rate. No water was showing in my exhaust or oil and Under 45 the thermoqual would read just fine. Above 45 it shot to REALLY HOT (not always-- but if I drove it a while at a slower speed again it would cool off some). My diagnosis, my radiator wasn't clearing the coolant as quickly as it entered the top tank and I would loose all but a top tank of coolant through the overflow. Gunk/rust/whatever must have been loose and took my marginally functional radiator and clogged up a few tubes too many). I have my original radiator on a shelf waiting for rodding. It had flow and was cleaned out by an experienced shop, but it wasn't rodded out and there just wasn't enough flow. I have a replacement radiator on the car (they are not cheap) and installed a GANO filter (hidden and cheap) and haven't had a problem since. This was my experience. I hope it helps.

[James Rogers]

Payton, why not just put the thermostat back in and see what it does.

[Peyton]

Thanks all! When I get thru wrestling with the intake manifold job on my wife's Chevy Lumina, I'll try the nail, check the timing, and reinstall the thermostat and will let all know the results.

There are no words to tell you how much I'm looking forward to working on a Model A or VW air cooled Beetle again!

[Allanw]

Originally Posted by Peyton

There are no words to tell you how much I'm looking forward to working on a Model A or VW air cooled Beetle again!

You must be a weirdo... just like me . I got a '72 Euro 1200 "standard" or "economy" Beetle, and an 84 Kombi (Vanagon) with a Subaru 2.5 in the back

[Peyton]

Update on overheat over 45

Bill, I put the nail in the overflow tube and, so far, it seems to be helping. James, I put the thermostat back in the car and, in a trip across Jacksonville yesterday, the temp gauge indicated 160* the whole way after warm up (ambient temp 70*).

I've had an opportunity to read the Cooling System Seminar given by Andy Wiedman of the Rocky Mountain A's and find his argument against adding a thermostat to the Model A compelling. He argues that the Model A does not have a bypass circuit so water in the block and head does not circulate when the thermostat is completely closed. Hot spots result "until the coolant heat at the inlet to the radiator reaches the set point". This might cause many to argue against the use of a thermostat in the Model A.

However, some Model A's have hot water heaters which allow water to circulate in the block and head when the thermostat is completely closed---that is, when water is circulating thru the heater core. It's a simple matter to bypass the heater core in the summer. My initial posts did not mention that I have a water heater in the car.

I was worried somewhat about the timing in the car because it was idling poorly; however, I changed carbs and its running great now. Oh, and tbirdbird, I found an old 1 gallon tin and covered it with black duct tape to carry water. Won't go without water again!

Again, thanks all.