Inner bearing rotates on the spindle

[ANTONIODELVAL]

In my Ford Model A, the inner bearing rotates on the spindle, it has no clearance, but it is not fixed and can be rotated. Is that correct or should I fix the inner bearing with loctite?
I mean the inner race turns on the front spindle.
Thank you.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Are you taking about the bearing that takes the load?

This was originally a roller bearing, but many sold today are ball bearings, and with the car on the ground you should not be able to turn the shell of this bearing. You may need to add shims, as many newer bearings are a bit thinner.

[jfreddie]

Sounds like that's the way it should be...no free play but free to rotate.

[ANTONIODELVAL]

I mean the inner bearing of the front wheel
Thank you

[1931flathead]

you mean the race of the bearing

[ANTONIODELVAL]

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I mean this inner bearing that mounts on the spindle

[DJ S]

Originally Posted by ANTONIODELVAL

I mean this inner bearing that mounts on the spindle

You are correct, it shouldn't rotate on the spindle.

[160B]

I believe what you are saying is that the inner race turns on the front spindle.

I have seen some spindles that the owner used a center punch and upset the spindle in the area that the race seats on. I have not done this myself but you would not want to over do this such that the inner bearing and race would not fit on the spindle, or once installed you could not get the inner bearing and race off.

If there are members who have done this please add your comments.

[Dave in MN]

The fit should be pretty snug but not a press fit. I had a slightly loose fit recently. I used a center punch to create some interference on a trailer build using a Model A front spindle. I plan to use a bit of Loctite along with the punched surface when completing final assembly.

After creating the very shallow dimples, the bearing needed to be seated with a pipe "driver" and light hammer taps. You only need enough upset to the surface to hold the bearing location and it won't take much to keep it from spinning. IMO: More shallow dimples are better than fewer deep ones.

After installing the bearing over the shallow dimples, it required two screwdrivers and light pressure to remove it from the spindle.
When completing the final assembly, the Loctite will be the major support. Best to use the correct Loctite for this application. There is a particular type that is designed for this purpose.
Good Day!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've used a center punch to make a lot of marks to snug up a slightly loose wheel bearing. The bearing should slide onto the shaft with no slop, but you shouldn't have to hammer it on. With the dimples it will take some tapping on however.

[Mitch//pa]

I only center punch and green loktite a loose race in the hub... its okay if the bearing goes onto the spindle and turns... it supposed to slide on and off but should be a snug fit not loose

[Synchro909]

I don't like the idea of centre punching the axle. The load is concentrated on a very small area at the tops of the raised rings around the punch marks instead of over the whole area of contact between bearing and axle and they are likely to flatten out again with the pounding they get, leaving the bearing loose again. Loctite as Mitch mentioned is my preferred method.

[FRANK PKNY]

I repair a lot of machinery. In my factory we use a loctite that's made for bearings. You need to get it very clean no grease. It's gray in color and is made to set a sleeve or bearing for just the reason you describe. It's in my tool box at work but I'm sure any good auto parts store can get it , if it's not on the shelf. Frank

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If the inside inner race spun on the spindle before with the old bearing it may have also reamed itself closer to the face of the hub. I have seen some that have welded themselves to the spindle and a cutting torch was needed for removal. Not having the bearings packed over 50 years of time does this....

If it looks like it did something like that sometime in the past, you may have to add a thin round washer type of shim behind the new bearing in addition to make sure you keep the proper distance and clearances for the brake hub onto the spindle...... Like Tom mentioned in post #2 some new wheel bearing brands are too thin as well. I have done both with a few dimple punches and with Loctite.
Don't over snug the new bearings when you tighten the spindle nut and use a good grease packed bearing and you should be good to go....

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

I only center punch and green loktite a loose race in the hub... its okay if the bearing goes onto the spindle and turns... it supposed to slide on and off but should be a snug fit not loose

LISTEN to my Son! He KNOWS what he's talking about! When a front drum is removed, the inner bearing should slide off with it!!!
TOO MANY things get OVERTHOUGHT! That bearing WON'T spin on the spindle & wear the spindle or the shoulder behind it. That's how the FACTORY designed them.
We have to exercise COMMON SENSE SOLUTIONS, or we could go on for 4 pages of dribble "EVERYONE" was not destined to be an ACE Auto Technician, listen to the ones that have "BEEN THERE & DONE THAT"---YES, I'm BRAGGING on my Son & Myself
Practical Dad

[Kurt in NJ]

It should move, it should be a slip fit, the idea is the race creeps in use so all the wear is not concentrated in one spot

There are some cars, mostly english that the inner races do not rotate, they have spacer and shims to adjust the bearings then the nut is made tight

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

It should move, it should be a slip fit, the idea is the race creeps in use so all the wear is not concentrated in one spot

There are some cars, mostly english that the inner races do not rotate, they have spacer and shims to adjust the bearings then the nut is made tight

I think you'll find that when that is done, ball bearings are used, not tapered rollers.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Since the bearing has no inner seal in the hub, it should likely stay on the shaft when the hub is removed, and since it is a slip fit, it likely can slowly move around as Kurt said, and I see no problem with that.

[Kurt in NJ]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I think you'll find that when that is done, ball bearings are used, not tapered rollers.

I know it was common with ball bearings,however on the MGB it is timkin taper roller with shims and spacers, I owned several, and worked on many, if you want documentation I can copy factory man

[H. L. Chauvin]

When this same subject was discussed quite a few times on this same Forum in the past, sometimes this discussion was not much different from a never ending discussion on Model A whitewall tires, detergent oil or non-detergent oil, and/or radiator cleaning methods.

Would be interesting to hear from several what they were actually advised from the different Timken Technicians for clearances for Model A front wheel bearings during the month of March in 2017.