'36 5w Cp Gas Tank Removal

[Steve in Denver]

I have a new to me '36 5W Coupe. I finally got the radiator to hold antifreeze, got the carb to stop leaking gas, got the plug wires replaced and put new plugs, points, etc., in it, went for a 15 minute ride til it put me on the side of the road. It has a '53 flathead in it and the fuel pump has the glass bowl. The bowl was more than half empty. Got it towed home. Disconnected the fuel pump flex line. Took my air compressor and blew the line back towards the tank. Put everything back together, it started right up. There was a lot of crud in the glass bowl, thus I think I have lots of crud in the gas tank.

I want to remove it and have it boiled out. How do I get it off of the car with out lifting the body. The three bolts that hold the tank to the frame are out, the filler neck is disconnected, the supply line is disconnected, the exhaust pipe has been removed. It is loose, but that is all.

Any and all help appreciated.
Steve

[50droptop]

There's one thing you didn't mention, but I'm sure it's not keeping the tank in the frame...and that's the wire for the sending unit to the gas tank. This is accessed through the small plate in the trunk floor. It's held in place with 1 screw and a clip that attaches the wire to the tank. Other than that, it will take some working, and possibly a little grinding (on the frame) to get the tank to clear 1 side of the frame first. If I remember correctly, the tank should move to the passenger side far enough to allow the drivers side to drop down....or vice versa.

[rich b]

Sounds like you got it covered, force it to one side until it it drops down; some prying will likely be required.

[slowforty]

Pry towards the fill pipe

[G.M.]

I would take the drain plug out and soak the inside with denatured
alcohol. I had some plugs I had to drill out. Make sure the hole is
centered with a small starter drill and you can get right down close
to the threads then run in a 1/4" pipe tap.
To remove the tank disconnect the fuel line, sender wire and filler
neck. Remove the 3 bolts with safety wires and springs. Have 2
chunks of 2x4 wood about 16"s long. Put one along the right side
of the tank below the frame and the other in the frame. Use a 1x3
16" long as a pry bar between the 2 2x4's and move the tank to
the drivers side. About all your going to get is an 1/8" clearance
from the edge of the flat flange and the upper lip of the frame. I
use two 18" screw drivers in the small gap to slide the tank down.
Takes about 20 minutes. Going back I stick the drivers side up
over the frame, block of wood in the right frame and a piece of
1/16 gauge metal about 10 X 6 against the wood at the bottom
and against the frame lip at the top and just force the tank back
up. I don't remember if there is a lead washer in the 35 tank.
If there is dip the washer in gas tank sealant before installing.
There are also wire clips to remove. I forgot I think you need
to loosen the tail pipe clamp so the pipe can move out of the
way. G.M.

[Steve in Denver]

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Thanks GM, those were the instructions I needed. I was awake all night trying to figure out how I was going to lift the body 2 inches.

I will take pictures along the way.

Steve

[G.M.]

I would take the drain plug out and soak the inside with denatured
alcohol. I had some plugs I had to drill out. Make sure the hole is
centered with a small starter drill and you can get right down close
to the threads then run in a 1/4" pipe tap.
To remove the tank disconnect the fuel line, sender wire and filler
neck. Remove the 3 bolts with safety wires and springs. Have 2 pieces
of 2x2 wood about 16"s long. Put one along the right side of the tank
below the frame and the other in the frame. Use a 1x3 16"s long as a
pry bar between the two 2x4's and move the tank to the drivers side.
About all your going to get is an 1/8" clearance between the edge of
the flat flange and the upper lip of the frame. I use to big 18" screw
drivers in the gap to hold the space and slide the tank down. Takes
about 20 minutes. Going back in slip the left flange up over the top
of the drivers side push it to the left. 2x4 in the right frame and a
piece of 1/16 gauge steel about 10"x16"s long against the wood at
the bottom and just above the top lip of the frame. Force the tank
to the drivers side and force the edge of the flange up the metal
until the flange snaps over the frame. I don't remember if there is
a lead washer in the 35 filler neck or not. If there is dip the washer
in gas tank sealer before installing. There are also wire clips on the
tank to remove and you need to loosen the tail pipe clamp so the
pipe will swing out of the way. G.M.

[Steve in Denver]

I did get the tank out, just as you said. Lots of prying, and cussing, but it did come out. I took it down to the local car wash and cleaned it for 15 minutes. About two cups of crud and rust came out. It was so bad that I did get a new tank.

I just received the float in today's mail and will work on reinstalling it tomorrow. I did take lots of pictures and will work on posting a, How I/we did it, for everyone's benefit.

Thanks GM
Steve

[ford nut]

I want to see some pics. I got to do mine too.

[deuce lover]

I removed one from a 35 tudor and 36 coupe.In both cases I removed the tail light bracket which gives room to jiggle the filler neck after unscrewing the collar.The most difficult I found is unscrewing the collar for the filler neck.If you don't have a spanner -use a pipe wrench- which is what I did.After unbolting the 3 bolts and removing them -slide the tank all the way to the left and it drops down on the right.Don't forget to replace the lead seal,wire brush lubricate the threads(collar) and take the time to align the filler neck with the opening of the tail light bracket.

[outlaw]

I'm interested in pictures also.

[TonyM]

Is the 1937 any much different than the 1936? I had NO problem whatsoever removing the fuel tank from the bottom of the frame. Took a few minutes of muscle-- I shoved the tank over to the right (passenger) a couple inches and then I just pulled it down right out of the frame rails. Getting it back in was not a problem either.

[oswego37]

ok guys, after a couple of hours, we were able to get the gas tank on my 37 out of the frame. cant get the tank out as it binds on the filler neck. This appears to be a fixed piece to the tank. [very thick metal] Any suggestions?
Thanks .in advance

[TagMan]

Deleted

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by oswego37

ok guys, after a couple of hours, we were able to get the gas tank on my 37 out of the frame. cant get the tank out as it binds on the filler neck. This appears to be a fixed piece to the tank. [very thick metal] Any suggestions?
Thanks .in advance

The tank drops down on the passenger side first then when
right side is down the drivers side comes right out. G.M.

[Steve in Denver]

sorry for the delay in posting pictures. I am still having trouble getting the gas gauge to work. Just ordered the adapter that goes from the 5-holes in the tank to use the 6-hole original style sending unit.

Ran out of gas once already using a different sending unit, wrong ohms.

Steve

[Steve in Denver]

Got the gas tank out and back in similar to what GM recommended. I did slide it hard to the passenger side with a 2 x 4, then, as there is no neck on the original tank, it did come straight down on the driver's side.

Had to use channel locks to unscrew the big metal neck thing on the original tank.

[Steve in Denver]

Latest update. Just got the adapter plate from Drake. I have a stainless steel tank that has 5 holes for the sending unit. The original sending unit has 6 mounting holes.

The adapter I just got is for mounting a 5-Hole sending unit to a 6-hole gas tank. I need it the other way around, 5-hole tank and 6-hole sending unit so I can use the original sending unit and have the correct impedance to match the gas gauge.

Unless anyone knows of a correct adapter, guess I will just have to make one. I can't be the only guy having this problem.

If you know of a purchasable solution, please post and do send me a direct email.

Steve
[email protected]

[TJ]

I think the problem you will have is the hole in the new tank may not be big enough to take your original sender. If the hole is big enough then just redrill the holes in your original sender, but my past experience with repo tanks is the original sender will not fit.

[6lucky13]

I too am looking for an adapter to use an original, functioning, accurate sending unit on a new tank in my '36 and am interested. I doublt BD will ever make one since he sells the 5 hole tanks and the senders to fit. This topic comes up occasionally; maybe someone can fashion an appropriate fitting (?).