Loss of power,

[izze]

Okay fellas, I'm stumped. I started to drive my 28 coupe long distances. Today I drove from Santa Clarita to Camarillo. About 60 miles. I made it to my destination without any problems. Then on the way home I came to a stop light. I retarded the spark. And came to a full stop. The engine started to sputter, back fire a little. And I had no power when I tried to accelerate. This is the second time this has happened to me. Here is what I've done since the first time this happened.

New exhaust manifold.
New intake manifold.
Copper gaskets with gland rings.
New ignition cable.
New points and plates.
New condenser.
New distributor body, cap, rotor.
Swapped out carb with known good one.
Removed inline fuel filter.
New fuel line.
Set timing again, over and over.
Cleaned up wiring at junction box.

I should mention, I can now only get the engine to run with the spark lever fully advanced. When I retard the spark, it dies.

I thought I had this fixed. But I'm writing this thread while in the cab of the tow truck. So no, I did not fix it.

Am I burning up condensers? Should I try modern points?

[Ruth]

What spark plugs are you running? May have fouled a sparkler or two?

[izze]

Champion plugs. I pulled #1 plug on the side of the road. It was light Grey color. No moisture.

I'll pull the others when I get home

[izze]

The plugs

[Big hammer]

Use a parts box lid, not the shiny side, double over the strip of box lid, swipe through the points until the lid is not black from the points. Now check the points gap, .018 - .022

[Gary WA]

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Wire in dizzy shorting out!

[1crosscut]

Sounds like your flexible wire under the plate in the distributor is grounding out when your retarding the spark. Often the "flag" end of the wire isn't bent correctly and will cause problems.

[izze]

I bent the wire connector 90 degrees when attaching it to the upper plate.

I'll do the box gap cleaning tip tomorrow.

Dizzy is in reference to the distributor rotor, correct?

[old31]

This sounds like a carb issue to me. Take the carb out and give it a good cleaning, check the float for a leak. The float could have fuel in it.

[nkaminar]

Re check the timing. The distributor cam may have slipped. Is there the washer under the cam and is the screw holding it from turning? Otherwise, check for shorting as Gary and Crosscut are suggesting. Dizzy is short for distributor.

[ronn]

This sounds like a carb issue to me. Take the carb out and give it a good cleaning, check the float for a leak. The float could have fuel in it.



swap the carb out and see if that is the issue- if not, back to electrics.

[Mike1291]

I will also cast my vote for the distributor. I had a similar running issue with mine. I tried to fix mine and even had it rebuilt several times and I could never get it to work right. Ended up buying a new one and no issues with ignition since. I don't know if the casing of the distributor can go bad but it very well could be.

Try swapping yours with a new or known good one and see if that helps

[1crosscut]

With the distributor fully retarded check for spark.

[nkaminar]

The clear distributor cap sold by the vendors is a good way to check for spark on all the cylinders, You can make a cutaway cap by cutting out a strip in the middle that includes the places where the clips attach and the wire from the distributor is inserted. The other parts are removed so that you can view the sparks at the terminals when the engine is running.

[izze]

I swapped out the carb yesterday already when I started my drive. I brought a known good carb with me.

The engine would maintain a fast idle, even with the spark retarded. I could not get the engine to slow down when coming to a stop. I swapped out the carb. Then the idle speed normalized. And she drive great for 60 miles.

I'll mention that this issue arose after I reached my destination. The car sat for about 45 minuets before starting my return trip home. We drove for about 20 minuets before hitting the first stop light. That's when I experienced this issue (again). The car did not sound right during those 20 minuets. But I was not sure if I was being paranoid.

nkaminar, the lock washer goes under the can screw correct? Not under the cam itself?

[Rob Doe]

I assume your retard of the spark at the stop light was only a notch or two, and the one or two notches were because you had been going fast enough to add an extra notch or two of advance at higher rpms. Is this correct?

If your car began to misfire when adjusting the spark control, and it now consistently refuses to run at all with the spark retarded, but it wlll run if the spark control is advanced, check the ammeter. Is it showing a small - neg draw when the ignition key is 'on'?

An unintended ground between the + pos post of the coil and the distributor points will not blow the safety fuse, but does prevent proper functioning of the primary and secondary ignition circuits.

If your ignition is wired according to the November, 1929 service bulletin, then your ammeter should reflect a slight - neg discharge (flicker) as the ig points open and close when the starter is turning the engine over. You can check this by removing the terminal box cover and observing where the black wire to the - neg post of the coil is sourced. It should be sourced at the yellow / black stripe side (driver side / left side of an American car)

If your ignition is wired according to the bulletin, and you do not see the negative flicker of the ammeter when cranking, and do not have a small steady discharge as described above, then the primary ignition circuit may have an open somewhere between the terminal box post and the distributor points. The previous sentence assumes the starter cranks, and the lights, horn or other accessories are working.

Beware, if you have left the key on for too long at any time during your repairs, then the new coil and / or condenser may be damaged.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by izze

I'll mention that this issue arose after I reached my destination. The car sat for about 45 minuets before starting my return trip home. We drove for about 20 minuets before hitting the first stop light. That's when I experienced this issue (again). The car did not sound right during those 20 minuets.

When you reached your destination, did you shut off your gas valve? I always shut off my gas valve and run the carb dry when I park after a run.

I have experience similar what you describe if I don't. I think the gas in the carb just sits there and heat soaks/boils cause a flooded engine and fouled plugs.

[katy]

Your picture shows that your spark plugs are Champion W16Y, you may need a hotter spark plug, try Champion W18 plugs.

[Flathead]

Distributor well grounded to block, lock bolt and nut tight? Engine, frame and battery all grounded together? The advance lever can act as a ground for distributor.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by katy

Your picture shows that your spark plugs are Champion W16Y, you may need a hotter spark plug, try Champion W18 plugs.

I agree. Altho the chart shows the W-16Y is hotter, my car runs much cleaner with the W-18s. The chart is a little confusing because it also states a W-16Y is between an W-18 and W-14?