Oil Filters

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by Gene F

OK, let me ask this. If an oil filter setup is a good idea, then why have I never heard an engine shop that specializes in A engines ever suggest one? I had a 1956 Chevy when I was a kid, and that oil filter option was not elected when the original owner bought the car in 1956. Lots of lawn movers are splash-n-splatter oil systems, and don't have a filter.

Not trying to be difficult, just asking a question, so be nice.

You are correct, lawnmowers and such have no filter, but, more expensive generators do. In fact, lawnmowers have air filters too, go figure.

I would venture to say that the Model A, as originally designed/built could reduce the internal wear by filtering the oil and removing the dirt or other solid contaminates. Any oil lubricated machine will respond in the same manner.

The article(s) I am referring to were written in the 60's, mainly in discussion with "modern" pressure fed bearing designs. At the time the manufacturers were starting to offer 100,000 mile warranties. They still had to improve the technology and tolerances but were well on the way.

The original Model A was a compromise of design/technology and economics for that period of time. Within four years, the block, crank and rods changed to larger more robust design. It would be interesting to read about when the "B" design started, a guess is in 1930.

To me, it is a choice, my choice is to add the filter. But I also pressure feed the insert bearings, again, my choice.

Oh, and back to your original statement about Engine shops that specialize in Model A's never recommending one. That is how they stay in business, volume. Personally, I have found that if I see a rebuilders tag, or rivet holes where one was removed, I pass on working on it.

Best of luck, John

[Werner]

It is self-explanatory that abrasive dirt (road dust, cylinder abrasion, hard combustion residues, ash, ...) leads to increased wear on all bearing and sliding surfaces. It will extend the life of the engine.
Very early in the history of engine development, there were already ideas on how to clean the oil. Mesh filter, gap rotary filter, centrifugal filter, centrifuge, ...
But the maintenance was often cumbersome and the filtration rating was only modest. Only the so-called "Micronic-Paper" filters brought the breakthrough to enable high filter performance with easy replacement.
Here in Germany, these paper-based ones were offered from around the 1950s, but sometimes only for an extra charge ex works.

With a good oil filter you make every engine happy!

[katy]

Originally Posted by Gene F

If an oil filter setup is a good idea, then why have I never heard an engine shop that specializes in A engines ever suggest one?.

They're looking for repeat business?

[Sunny the Model A]

I am running a Motorcraft FL1A filter. I punch out the flap and it flows fine. I am a partial flow man myself. I just prefer it due to the bulletproof design. no fear of oil starvation.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Sunny the Model A

I am running a Motorcraft FL1A filter. I punch out the flap and it flows fine. I am a partial flow man myself. I just prefer it due to the bulletproof design. no fear of oil starvation.

When you punch out the flap you defeat the purpose of the anti-flow back valve. But then again it probably doesn't make much difference on a bypass system.

[Gene F]

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Katy, johnneilson, I am wondering why every time I go to a antique rebuilder / machinist the place is paced with work lined up. Doesn't seem to me like they are anywhere near running out of work.

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Katy, johnneilson, I am wondering why every time I go to a antique rebuilder / machinist the place is paced with work lined up. Doesn't seem to me like they are anywhere near running out of work.

The place is Probably lined up with engines that didn’t use oil filters!

David Serrano

[jeepguy1948]

I haven't read every single post on this thread yet but before I dive in too deep (or order a header) I need to know if the filter set up with the 90 degree fitting work with 4 into 1 headers, the cast iron header, the Yap cast 4 into 2 set up?

[saxman657]

Originally Posted by '28 RPU

I haven't read every single post on this thread yet but before I dive in too deep (or order a header) I need to know if the filter set up with the 90 degree fitting work with 4 into 1 headers, the cast iron header, the Yap cast 4 into 2 set up?

Is this the 90 degree listed in the Snyder's catalog (A-6705) that replaces the Timing Side Cover? I'm working on a B block that has a full-flow Stipe Oil Pump on it and wondering if that's the way to go. I have an oil filter adapter right now that is set up to attach to the oil pan, but I think that's a bad idea -- I could never use engine pans among other things.

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by saxman657

Is this the 90 degree listed in the Snyder's catalog (A-6705) that replaces the Timing Side Cover? I'm working on a B block that has a full-flow Stipe Oil Pump on it and wondering if that's the way to go. I have an oil filter adapter right now that is set up to attach to the oil pan, but I think that's a bad idea -- I could never use engine pans among other things.

Depending on the "B" engine you are working on, you may need modify this unit.
If you are staying with standard oiling, this will work.
If you are moving to a full pressure system, the output can be plugged and another discharge port/fitting line can be added.

It can be messy when changing the filter, I just poke a hole in the side, drain and then remove.

John

[katy]

Originally Posted by '28 RPU

I haven't read every single post on this thread yet but before I dive in too deep (or order a header) I need to know if the filter set up with the 90 degree fitting work with 4 into 1 headers, the cast iron header, the Yap cast 4 into 2 set up?

Are you talking about Snyder's OIL FILTER ADAPTER Part # A-6706?
Snyder's info says: Sometimes there is a clearance issue when running our A-6705-F with headers. This bracket turns the filter 90 degrees when the original filter position has clearance issues.

Must use Motorcraft FL820S, M-6731-FL820, or FL500S filter with this adapter. Normal filter that comes with the A-6705-F will not fit threads.

[johnneilson]

I had a discussion with a Friend today who had a problem with a filter.
It seems that the filter he chose had a check valve in it and it did not open until 15 PSI.
He changed to a normal filter and the problems went away.

Something new every day, John