The timing mystery is solved!!!!!!!!

[Ken B]

Here is an update to my timing problems. After checking all the common things and a few far fetched ones, I took a look at the distributor body. The bakelite body notch for the upper plate arm was cut out in the wrong position. I compared it with an old original one and the slot was different. I used the old body for now and redid the timing after adjusting the steering column to fit the slot in the body. The rotor now points right at the #1 pin and the engine runs great with all the power I could expect.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with the reproduction bodies? I would have thought they used a jig of some sort to cut the notch in the correct position. Oh well, several hours, scratching heads, new parts,new swear words and many old ones later, etc... and the ol' Model A is ready for some touring. Thanks to all you fellow Fordbarners for this great forum. Ken B.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Ken B

Has anyone else experienced this problem with the reproduction bodies?.

I imagine anything is possible with reproductions, Your cap is probably from Argentina. Thanks for letting us know what it was. I'm sure your experience will help out someone else with the same trouble. And congratulations on your new, good running engine.

[V4F]

ive got bad rotors ! they sit to high . ............. steve

[1931 flamingo]

Ken B: following your two posts with great interest as I also am having difficulty. I filed my dist slot as you have (even though mine would go to end of slot), and used a new tool from bratton's (nu-rex), found the dimple,loosened cam and wound the cam 2 turns c/wise w/tool to the #4 post, tightend cam. MAGIC. Then looked at Marco's timing picture again and mine is right on. For some reason I thought rotor would be in a different position, but this seems to be working. Thanks to everyone else for their input.
Paul in CT

[Mike in NRN IN]

Here's the Nu-Rex Tool - I swear by it!

[Ken B]

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I would be careful filing the slot in the distributor body. I didn't do it here. The slot was cut in wrong from where it was made. What you need to do is loosen the clamping bolts on the steering column and rotate it to match the slot in the distributor body with the rod attached and in the fully retarded position. You rotate the column until the arm coming out of the distributor hits the stop. This aligns the rod to the distibutor upper plate arm and body. Ken B.

[1931 flamingo]

Ken B mine was ok, just decided to give slot an extra .020

[TK in LA]

How about Multiple Choice. This was from a car that's been sitting for more than 30 years. Go figure?

[sonny30coupe]

I have 1 just like that TK, I dont know where it came from.

[Larry Seemann]

That body, like most repros, was made to fit both "A" & "B" distributors.

[Special Coupe Frank]

Originally Posted by TK in LA

How about Multiple Choice. This was from a car that's been sitting for more than 30 years. Go figure?

Must be from an early '28, to go with the red steering wheel...

[racer32]

Apologies for bringing an old thread back from the dead, but I seem to be having a similar issue. When I retard the timing lever, it hits the distributor body before the end of its travel. I'm unclear on what the fix is. Do I move the steering column, or file the slot wider? Thanks

[Mitch//pa]

make sure your rod is not bent, if you have a 30 -31 loosen the clamp and rotate the collumn. set it so you get full throw in both directions. reset timing to specs.

[Great Lakes Greg]

Of all the adjustments, I would have never thought of rotating the steering column. What a great resource this site is!

[ctlikon0712]

I have one of those Nu-Rex tools and love it. I double checked with the Marco method and it is spot on for me.

[tbirdtbird]

"the slot in the wrong place" has come up before

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Those little distributor rotor tool thingies REALLY help my ooold fumbly fingers hold the rotor, just at the point opening spot, while I tighten the cam locking screw. Bill W.

[racer32]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

make sure your rod is not bent, if you have a 30 -31 loosen the clamp and rotate the collumn. set it so you get full throw in both directions. reset timing to specs.

Rod has a definite bend to it. If it's completely straightened I'm not sure if it would clear the head. My car's a late 31. Where's the clamp I need to loosen...sorry haven't really been looking at anyhting on the column. Is the clamp I loosen in the passenger compartment or under the hood?

[pat in Santa Cruz]

loosen the clamp at the base of the column under the hood, and loosen the clamp in the passenger compartment. I grab the column by the boss through which the control rods exit, up the column by the firewall. I have a big wrench that fits it over the flat of the boss, but you can use a channel lock with some cloth or leather to protect the paint. Set the advance lever to retard, rotate the column so the distributor arm is just touching the back of the slot. Pull the lever down while watching the arm. It should stop just as it touches the block side of the slot. Tighten the clamps.

If your rod (when straight) is too long, suspect a repro. Compare it to an original for length. It should be straight. When properly positioned, the rod will clear the head. This adjustment will affect your throttle lever too. It should also be straight. Lots of them are bent to clear the starter rod. It will clear the starter rod when adjusted correctly.

Originally Posted by racer32

Rod has a definite bend to it. If it's completely straightened I'm not sure if it would clear the head. My car's a late 31. Where's the clamp I need to loosen...sorry haven't really been looking at anyhting on the column. Is the clamp I loosen in the passenger compartment or under the hood?

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by racer32

Rod has a definite bend to it. If it's completely straightened I'm not sure if it would clear the head. My car's a late 31. Where's the clamp I need to loosen...sorry haven't really been looking at anyhting on the column. Is the clamp I loosen in the passenger compartment or under the hood?

Loosen both under fuel tank in pass compartment and under hood where collumn goes into box. make sure rod is not bent and rotating it will clear the head nut...keep an eye on the throttle rod also but all should work out