Scat Model A Crankshaft

[MAG]

Anyone have any any experience with the Scat Crank for Modlel A? Installation? Modification if any? Price?

[Russell in Tulsa]

I Googled it and they cost between $1299 and $1499. Sorry thats all I could help you

[johnneilson]

I am guessing not like this one......

[MAG]

Thanks, Russell. That is part of what I am looking for.

johnneilson -That sure doesn't look like my Model A block.

[Marco Tahtaras]

The Scat crank for the Model A block is machined for a rear seal (no slinger) so the block (or seal insert?) and rear main cap must be machined accordingly. I assume there are no issues with the stock trusts (rear main babbitt) but can't say for sure. I suspect they can provide the specifics

[colin1928]

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I Have use a few of them really nice crank they have more weight in the counter weight so make a really smooth running engine
as said above you need to machine for rear main seal and make adaptor
all mine were insert bearing and the thrust bearings had to made to suit to centre the crank front to rear
the fillets are big so need to radius everything to suit

[johnneilson]

Mag,
The motor didn't weigh enough so I added a 3 1/2" spacer between the block and pan.

If this crank is any indication of the quality of SCAT product, you will not be disappointed.

j

[Lawrie]

Well ,not an A scat crank ,but a 4in flathead one,have one in our dragster,very impressed,did a bearing change on it over the weekend,I should have done it last christmas but got lazy so the rod bearings had two seasons on them,they were worn through to the bronze ,but no wear on the crank.
also just bought another 4 in one for a 276 engine I,m doing and it looks very nice.
I have also a burlington crank for my A,and that looks nice as well.
Lawrie

[Jim Brierley]

scat has a reputation for good quality. the crank john neilson shows is a 5-main racing crank. i recently bought one and had john machine the girdle for me, quality throughout!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

The Scat crank for the Model A block is machined for a rear seal (no slinger) so the block (or seal insert?) and rear main cap must be machined accordingly. I assume there are no issues with the stock trusts (rear main babbitt) but can't say for sure. I suspect they can provide the specifics

Just as a 'heads-up', I spoke with Brian McCollough (Sales Mgr for SCAT) last year at a trade show about this very thing when I heard Chris was no longer going to be making his cranks. I explained to Brian that I had concerns about using a rear seal and his response back was they would make them any way we wanted them since they were all CNCed from a billet forging. He did ask where I had heard this about them not offering a slinger, and he said that info was false and they would gladly make them in whatever configuration we wanted. I have purchased 4 SCAT cranks now, and am ready to order 2 more. I could not be happier with mine other than the price. Sadly I think we had a bargain/value with Chris' cranks and we didn't realize it.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

scat has a reputation for good quality. the crank john neilson shows is a 5-main racing crank. i recently bought one and had john machine the girdle for me, quality throughout!

Jim what size are the mains, are they the same as a B ? I need a crank for a 5 main block.

[MAG]

Thanks for the replys fellas. Good information. I want to balance my engine but reluctant to weld on counter weights and risk having to turn the crank. My engine has about 10k miles on it and it is a new (never assembled) after Model A Production engine and the crank is still standard.
Thought I would look into the Bur;ington and Scat cranks.

[PC/SR]

Check with Dan Price. He will swedge on counterweights, no welding.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by MAG

Thanks for the replys fellas. Good information. I want to balance my engine but reluctant to weld on counter weights and risk having to turn the crank. My engine has about 10k miles on it and it is a new (never assembled) after Model A Production engine and the crank is still standard.
Thought I would look into the Bur;ington and Scat cranks.

Originally Posted by PC/SR

Check with Dan Price. He will swedge on counterweights, no welding.

Even if weights are welded on, the crank is straightened in a press, so as long as its' journals are still round, then adding weights is not a critical thing.

Dan's weights require the crankshaft to have the "throws"* ground to something like 4.000. Then to grind a crank with his weights, the weights must be removed. Dan told me that he just copied the design of the Ford 'B' press-on weights.


* I looked on the print to see what that "throw" was actually called and could not find the proper name for it, ...therefore I just called it a 'throw' .

.

[PC/SR]

Dan's weights are pretty heavy and increased my crank weight to 53 lbs as I recall. Should probably lighten the flywheel if you do it. I only netted a weight savings of around 18 lbs with one of Dan's flywheels, but the weight is much more evenly distributed.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

This is one of the cranks that we made untill the balanced cranks came out.

Haven't made one for about 5 years, and we have made 182 to date, in the past 41 years.

The weights we made are 5/8's thick, so you don't have to remove them to grind the cranks, and the weights were never swedged on, they were shrink on like a flywheel ring gear, and then Ford put put in a 3/16 inch pin, and then air gunned the hole shut in the weight.

When the crank is finished and before balancing, they are almost in perfect balance already.

The 3/16 pins do nothing for help, as the weights would never come off.