Distributor Drive Removal

[emf]

We have an interesting problem on a friend's A. He went to start it after sitting for little over 8 months and the distributor shaft broke at the bottom slot that mates with the drive shaft from the cam. We pulled the distributor and there was a mass of rust preventing the distributor shaft from spinning. We have a long shaft from another distributor but there is another issue. When we inserted the replacement shaft into the hole in the head, it engages the drive shaft but it can spin freely. If we turn the engine over using the hand crank, I can hold the distributor shaft and can keep it from spinning. It seems the gear that mates with the cam shaft is turning freely in position. So here is the question, when I read Les Andrew's book, it looks like that drive assembly can be removed from the engine through the side cover without dropping the oil pan. Is this correct? Then, can I just inspect it and replace it the same way (once the fault is corrected, of course)?? I never have had one apart, so I'm looking for help on this one. Thanks.

Frank

[Dave in MN]

The drive gear is removed from/through the valve chamber opening. You are correct, you do not need to remove the oil pan.

[Patrick L.]

Dave is correct.
And the manifolds don't need to be removed.
The retainer spring and drive gear can be cantankerous at times, but, keep at it. I have a feeling the old tab is preventing the new shaft from engaging the drive.
While in there just make sure the camshaft is turning.
The ignition timing will have to be reset.
Be careful cleaning the rust from the hole, you wouldn't want any of it getting tangled up in a bearing.

[jetmek]

Id be wary of other problems like leaky head gasket or a crack if it had enough rust to seize the distributor....check the oil holes to main bearings while you have the valve cover off make sure they're not plugged with rusty mud.

[PC/SR]

I sometmes use a long screwdriver, with the drive gear out, to turn the oil pump slot a half turn or so, at get the the drive gear line up. It gets frustrating at times.

[emf]

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Thanks for the help, guys. It makes sense now...

Frank

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by PC/SR

I sometmes use a long screwdriver, with the drive gear out, to turn the oil pump slot a half turn or so, at get the the drive gear line up. It gets frustrating at times.

X2...as said , takes some frustration out of equation. If you do not know of this 'tip', it is a time and nerve saver

[Jim Brierley]

Do as PC/SR says to insure the pump is not the cause of your problem.

[Victoria31]

The same thing happened to me. In my case, the distributor drive shaft was rusted and frozen into the head/block. There had been some serious moisture intrusion! It took me two days to extract the shaft(lower of 2 piece). With the shaft locked, when the engine turned over with the starter, it stripped the drive gear and the spirial gear on the cam shaft. There were metal pieces everywere.the solution was to replace the cam, drive gear, intermediate distributor drive shaft, drop and clean the oil pan and rebuild the distributor. All that solved the problem. While I am not sure, I believe the moisture problem was a result of a weaping head gasket. Good luck!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

I supply a new shaft each time we ship one of our mallory distributors. We paint these new shafts with a trans-star primer etc. I noticed even after running for a short period of time these rust up pretty baddly!!!
The A engine doesnt really have very good crankcase ventilation at all......

[emf]

We might be able to remove the drive gear and shaft this weekend. I'll try to post some photos of what we find.

Frank

[sethkestenbaum]

Be forewarned that he replacement shafts/gears don't always have tangs/grooves that "fit". I had a lot of problems with my distributor shaft not fitting a new gear. I also had issues when the new gear would not marry the top of the pump properly.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by sethkestenbaum

Be forewarned that he replacement shafts/gears don't always have tangs/grooves that "fit". I had a lot of problems with my distributor shaft not fitting a new gear. I also had issues when the new gear would not marry the top of the pump properly.

I've also had to use a mill file and give the shaft slot a few strokes to make the tang fit. It only took a couple minutes, so wasn't really a problem.

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by sethkestenbaum

Be forewarned that he replacement shafts/gears don't always have tangs/grooves that "fit". I had a lot of problems with my distributor shaft not fitting a new gear. I also had issues when the new gear would not marry the top of the pump properly.

As witnessed.